kevin phillips Posted June 21, 2007 Share Posted June 21, 2007 Have a 03 6.0 had a injector pouring fuel into crankcase drained at least 45 quarts of fuel/oil out of truck anyone built the bottom end of these cost cap is 9900 dollers.Anyone have any help hints on teardown,removal and what might need replacing.the vehicle ran away with customer and when i started it after replacing injector it revved to the moon for 45 seconds or so. It still runs but sounds like a rod bearing bent rod hitting block kinda noise it also has quite a bit of blow by out oil cap.relative compression shows 3 cylinders down 4 percent what do you guys normally replace? the cost cap is HIGH and hotline was no help. Starting tear down tommorow to see but any suggestions,help would be great thanks,kevin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 We had one run away on us and it too had fuel in the oil along with the turbine wheel breaking off after the turbo seized. The pics are in the Photos section under one of the " Engine Failure One " titles. We tore it down only to discover that the damage was long done, pistons melted, there was piston to head contact on both banks. A real mess. Most runaway engines will have pistons hitting something, a rod, head and definitely some valve whacking! Just pulling the heads will likely be enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DwayneGorniak Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 Condemn the bitch! And don't forget to get your intercooler steam cleaned. If there is any diesel fuel in it which is quite common when the type of failure you just had occures, you could have another runnaway on a new engine. Trust me I've seen it happen. Had an apprentice that used to work under me that didn't listen about steam cleaning the intercooler and imagine what happened? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott B Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 Condemn the bitch! And don't forget to get your intercooler steam cleaned. If there is any diesel fuel in it which is quite common when the type of failure you just had occures, you could have another runnaway on a new engine. Trust me I've seen it happen. Had an apprentice that used to work under me that didn't listen about steam cleaning the intercooler and imagine what happened?Yep how right you are.Also anytime you have a Turbo failure its a good idea to pullit and steam it out.Usually on Class eight engines which I mostly work on.The Turbo will have been pushing oil out the charge side before it Blows.I think the most I have ever dumped out of one is a couple of gallons of Oil this was On Pete with a 550 CAT.Also if the charge side compressor wheel is shatterd or fins broke off the pieces will be in the side tank of the cooler.If you dont get them out chances are excellent that they will blow back into the charge side of the Turbo after the engine is run a couple blasts at full boost down the road and the normal backfeed when backing off the pedal fast will suck them right back into the charge side and chew the hell out of the impeller on your New Turbo.Seen it happen too many times.Same thing with the Intake ducting make sure it clean and Throw in a New airfilter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin phillips Posted June 29, 2007 Author Share Posted June 29, 2007 tore engine down only things i see are pistons melted on sides and minimal block scoring but this thing sounded horrible anyone ever have one sound like a rod knock but the main and rod bearings are just lightly damaged no spun bearings what would you guys do do i need to replace the oil pumps stuff like lifters,rockers they have light wear but the only real problem i see is the pistons kinda melted on all but 2 cylinders with number one cylinder the worst could anything else fail on one of these and be a piston knock thanks guys ready to pull my hair out trying to work on this one and 4 more with turbo's egr's ect...thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin phillips Posted July 27, 2007 Author Share Posted July 27, 2007 replaced engine after a ford inspection and about a part wait all is well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 Kevin, you mention that the pistons melted - on engines I had with melted pistons they knocked as well. Looking at the pistons and cylinder heads, it appeared that the piston crown on most melted pistons was hitting the head. I assumed that was causing the knock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin phillips Posted July 28, 2007 Author Share Posted July 28, 2007 i couldn't see any evidence of head contact but it rapped loud almost like a rod knock during rev but no bearing damage was evident other than mild debris in the bearings i just figured it was piston slap but that was my first 6.0 engine job so guess i'm lucky went through a big mess to get one for it but i learned alot for future use so i guess thats what matters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Warman Posted July 28, 2007 Share Posted July 28, 2007 Your thread has opened up one of those ubiquitous opportunities for this old booger...... This isn't a blatant attempt to hi-jack the thread.... but the mere mention of internal cylinder concerns does make me wat to make sure the whole world comes to a solid realization..... In my area, the crankcase pressure test is an important operation... the dust in our area is insidious and drives my distrust of open weave filters.... I digress (again). One of the very bad things about the crankcase pressure test is the need for a properly functioning engine..... One would expect a burned or holed piston to increase crankcase pressure ensuring a "fail"... Not so.... If the cylinder can't build enough pressure to "light off", it wont add to crankcase pressure - and can even offer a path to reduce crankcase pressure readings.... In such a case, relative compression (if available) will help followed by a mechanical compression test if necessary. While so many things appear to be "cut and dried", it is so important for us to think about what we are doing and why we are doing it.... along with any consideraions for conditions that might "colour"our test results.... FWIW..... I just finished another day... "Why are you doing that?".... "I'm not sure"...... "Why?"..... "I don't know how it works.".... "Did you read the manual?".... "No."..... I had a "short form" discussion regarding this with the DP over a fairly torquey rum and diet coke (bleahhhhhh) at days end.... He is politically correct to the point of being anal.... I'm an old school curmudgeon..... I am not allowed to call an idiot an idiot because I may injure his sensibilities... So easy a caveman could do it, my ass...... If I am to nurture these young souls and mold them into the tech of the future, I am going to have to wound someones pride somewhere along the line. I try my best to make them want to learn navigating OASIS and the manuals... handing them things on a platter will not make them better.... Unfortunately,all I do, for the most part, is lead the horse to water - he refuses to drink.... Anyone with better people skills than I have suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony302600 Posted July 28, 2007 Share Posted July 28, 2007 Jim, your posts motivate me to become a better tech and think outside the box and read between the lines of the workshop manual. I have become a much better 6.0 tech because of it. Kudos Keith and Jim and everyone else on this website for the motivation to actually like my job when the frusdtrations reach their peak. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DwayneGorniak Posted July 29, 2007 Share Posted July 29, 2007 Kevin, I have had many Sicko engine failures and some that had knocks and melted pistons like the one you just had. I believe it is a detination knock from overfueling. Been down that path many times. That's why as a flatrate tech I believe in cutting out the political bullshit that you have to go through with prior approval and "I Condemn the Bitch as fast as I can". Or as Ford calls it: inspect and determine engine damage. Don't get me wrong, I don't go replacing parts just for the hell of it. "It's just knowing how to cut the time consuming politics as fast as you can", because the warranty Nazi's don't give a rats ass how much time you lose on a job. It all comes with time, patience, knowledge, experience and sometimes a few wobbly pops to make the financial hemroids feel just a little bit better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Warman Posted July 29, 2007 Share Posted July 29, 2007 For somebody that lives that close to Cag'ry, you can make a lot of sense.... Cost cap that puppy just as quick as you possibly can.... If the shop foreman has the time and/or the inclination to analyse/analize the root cause of the concern, we will be further ahead... but laying this portion of the process on we in the field can either give them bogus impressions or give our DPs reduced profits (yeah, I have to consider THAT).... And the engineers get to play golf on Wednesdays.... along with the doctors and lawyers.... Warranty nazis???? They're telemarketers in reverse..... They wont let us phone them during dinner, they wont give yes for an answer and they seem to think that we have nothing better to do than jump through hoops like a trained pot-bellied pig. I propose Specialty 99... creative writing as a Ford "bubble" course.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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