Jim Warman Posted July 10, 2007 Share Posted July 10, 2007 On inford (the tech website we Canadians get), a discussion on comparing ECT and EOT has broken out..... (we'll see how long it takes that to degenerate). Something I may have asked here before..... and I do realize that the engineers have to draw a line in the sand somewhere.... What makes a 25F difference "good" and a 26F difference "bad"? Faced with a fluid temp difference in the high teens or low 20's how does everyone else respond to the concern? Our guys refuse to expose themselves to the possibility of a repeat repair and view a restricted cooer as a restricted cooler - "normal" being a 4 or 5C (sorry to switch to metric in midstream) difference with the odd spike in my experience. Faced with a fluid temp difference in the high teens or low 20s, how would YOU respond? Fudge numbers and replace the cooler? Note it on the RO and pray for the best? Or simply say "the engineers say it isn't broken yet" and leave it be? Obviously, what the engineers have written will be "chiselled in stone" as far as the warranty nazis are concerned.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted July 10, 2007 Share Posted July 10, 2007 I personally like to find the reason an EGR cooler has failed. I don't think that they just fail for the heck of it. I start by looking for coolant leaks, and if there are none, and the degas isn't venting, I'll put an oil cooler in with it. I have in the past called hotline on the advice of the shop foreman, and the answer is to replace the EGR cooler only if there is not a 25 deg. difference. Now if there is a repeat EGR cooler failure, they tell you to put in an EGR cooler, oil cooler and then retest for headgasket leakage. At least that's how it seems to me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nuff Posted July 10, 2007 Share Posted July 10, 2007 WHAT I USAULLY DO IS CHECK FOR LEAKS,PULL THE EGR VALVE LOOK IN THE INTAKE FOR COOLANT,IF THATS OK THEN I CHECK FOR COOLANT FLOW AND FAN AIR FLOW IF THATS OK,THEN I ROADTEST AND LOOK FOR PIDS ECT AND EOT IF THATS OK THEN I DRIVE TRUCK TO GET IT TO VENT OUT COOLANT FROM THE DEGAS BOTTLE CAP THIS WAY OF DOING IT WORKS EVERY TIME Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony302600 Posted July 11, 2007 Share Posted July 11, 2007 Like I keep telling you guys, We had a hotline engineer who i trust and has always helped me tell me that its actually 15 degrees difference when they start to go. That has stuck with me and havent had a repeat repair. Now i keep hearing about a bad batch of EGR/Oil coolers so im waiting for something to come back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DwayneGorniak Posted July 11, 2007 Share Posted July 11, 2007 Kenneth I diagnose very similar to you. I think it is important to look at all the steps in the TSB and understand them thoroughly. Cooling fan speed versus commanded duty cycle is overlooked all too often and I see alot of repeat repairs from other dealerships in our area as a result. I do agree with Tony on the fifteen degrees. I have heard the same thing from Hotline. Heres my theory: After the truck is successfully repaired and running within specs, double check your work and monitor PID's on a road test. Get to know what is good and what is bad. Even take brand new trucks and monitor PIDS to know what is good. Example: I find new engine oil coolers or fairly new engines run at about 8 to 10 degrees hotter on EOT than the ECT when I am working the ever living crap out of the engine. Knowing what is good, I pick on what I see as bad. Know your goods and bads folks. It works for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieselD Posted July 11, 2007 Share Posted July 11, 2007 I almost always replace both as a set. When they get hydrolocked and wont run long enough to monitor the EOT and ECT is the worse. I am not about to replace the cooler then recheck, then replace the oil cooler then recheck again. If not they usually come back with another EGR cooler failure. The ones that get both stay away. I have even has hotline tell me to replace both most of the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sondogg12 Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 got a truck today.lack of power.would not go over 35 mph load.no codes found.road test up steep grade.notice fan clutch on early but ect-192.started to loose power.would not go over 36mph.monitor eot-282 degees.pcm cutting back power.never seen it before.something new /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony302600 Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 The e350 i did an engine harness on, well i did a oil cooler to it after taking the upper radiator hose off and seeing the chocolate milk effect. Since there was only 1 line on the R.O. i had to plead to do the job ( customer was sick of van in shop ). The whole time im doing the oil cooler i was thinking bout the egr cooler and them not letting me do it. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif U guys can start the ticker now til it comes back for the egr cooler and the customer looking like this /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/mad.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DwayneGorniak Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 Sonny, pull the oil filter out and look at the oil stand pipe. If it is melted, call hotline, they will tell you to order an engine. In OASIS there is an SSM About this. Enter the VIN and then click on engine and oil system concerns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sondogg12 Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 yea,they told me the pipe starts to melt at 315 degrees.It wouldn't let me go much pass 282 degees.just kept downing the power.maybe if he was pulling trailer... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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