kevin phillips Posted August 4, 2007 Share Posted August 4, 2007 HAVE A 03 6.0 OVERHEATING CHECKED AND FULL OF ANTIFREEZE ENGINE TEMP GOT TO 248 ON ECT PID.FAN CLUTCH SEEMS TO BE PULLING AIR AND FRONT OF CONDENSOR/RADIATOR LOOKS CLEAN. ENGINE IS GETTING TO HOT.REPLACED THERMOSTAT STILL HAPPENING ANY IDEAS,OR THINGS YOU GUYS HAVE SEEN.MUCH WORSE WITH TRAILER HOOKED UP LOADED OR WHEN PULLING HILLS UNLOADED.I DON'T BELIEVE IT IS A HEAD GASKET ISSUE BECAUSE THE PRESSURE STAYS OK IN THE SYSTEM. ANY HELPFUL INFO FROM THE DIESEL EXPERTS,THINGS YOU GUYS HAVE SEEN FIRST OVERHEATER I'VE HAD ON THESE. STILL LEARNING ô§ô,THANKS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony302600 Posted August 4, 2007 Share Posted August 4, 2007 Kevin monitor ect and eot, i would check that water pump because ive had broken shafts on those waterpumps causing ure exact problem...the pulley will turn and theimpeller will stay stationary, those also have the casting issue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted August 4, 2007 Share Posted August 4, 2007 Even though you don't suspect head gaskets, these are a pattern failure and a quick check is a good idea. I'd "tee" in a (0-30psi) pressure gauge into the coolant bottle degas line and drive the truck to see how fast the pressure rises. If it rises too fast under WOT, it has a combustion leak into the system. If you don't see anything there, it might pay off to "go fishing" at the WP and radiator. I wouldn't suspect a broken water pump shaft as this would be immediate overheating. It sounds like you can drive this truck lightly loaded and it doesn't overheat, right? What's the EOT doing? I think it should be within 30 or so degrees of ECT. (this has been a great discussion here, any comments are invited) Do you have an IR gun? I'd be shooting stuff to see what's going on. Look at the stat, and as much of the radiator as you can- inlet and outlet, etc. Is there anything odd in history that you can see like recent repairs, chip, mods, etc? The fan should really be roaring at that temp and blowing a ton of air. You should be able to command the fan on with IDS to make sure it is working. It's also common to have crap blocking the fins in front that you can't see until it's taken apart. BTDT many times on a variety of trucks. Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Warman Posted August 4, 2007 Share Posted August 4, 2007 Bruce is quite right about the radiator... The cooling stack is like a three part sifter.... The AC condenser and the CAC are pretty coarse. The condenser stops most of the bugs and this leaves the CAC usually very clean.... separate the rad, and the story changes... Everything else can look great and the rad can be plugged solid..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted August 5, 2007 Share Posted August 5, 2007 One thing that I have noticed on many occasions with headgasket leaks is that the cooling system will build pressure very rapidly, and in some cases the degas bottle will actually vent when sitting in the shop idling. I know this is probably an extreme case of leakage, but something I've come across nonetheless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snw blue by you Posted August 5, 2007 Share Posted August 5, 2007 Absolutely check the radiator. Example: '06 350 King Ranch crewcab dually with 165,000 miles. This guy hauled a 5th wheel 6 place car trailer all over the country, just happened to be in our area when it started running hot, unfortunately for him, he cooked the heads and EGR cooler. Straight foward repair, but what was the cause? At least the lower third of the radiator was plugged solid with debris and would not allow any airflow. The deminished cooling capacity along with the trailer load spelled disaster. We got a follow up call and letter from him expressing his thanks and stating that his rig ran better and cooler than it had in quite some time. That unit had been in service only 8 months, that some serious wheel time Cover all the cooling system bases, but remember to look for the simple stuff, and don't over think it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Warman Posted August 5, 2007 Share Posted August 5, 2007 I am reminded of one that one I heard about a couple of years ago.... It was summer time - head gaskets replaced in Calgary..... later that summer, the head gaskets were replaced in a more northern community (larger and more northerly than Slave Lake but naming the town might identify the shop).... still later that summer, the whole province is talking about the truck that has had two sets of head gaskets and now needs a motor....... because the rad was plugged. I'm not sure how far the fan scattered the crap.... but I remember the DOM being involved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin phillips Posted August 7, 2007 Author Share Posted August 7, 2007 checked the radiator it is clean,sent it out had it flow tested and it tested ok going to pull pump and check it out next to check for broken shaft/impeller thanks for the ideas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin phillips Posted August 8, 2007 Author Share Posted August 8, 2007 water pump impeller was spinning on shaft thanks guys for the help all is ok after repair of pump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 Outstanding guys! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rockon.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmlew Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 Outstanding guys! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rockon.gif OK...this begs the question...any chance we could plumb a low pressure guage into the cooling system to check for flow? Maybe at the heater hoses? Would save alot of head scratching... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/poke.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iceman Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 if you take the hose off the degas bottle on the passenger side to intake and no water comes out when engine is running there is either a restriction or no water pump flow real easy test if you want to find out if the pump is pumping or not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony302600 Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 water pump impeller was spinning on shaft thanks guys for the help all is ok after repair of pump Oh yea, Tony 1.....6.0... 0 /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmlew Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 if you take the hose off the degas bottle on the passenger side to intake and no water comes out when engine is running there is either a restriction or no water pump flow real easy test if you want to find out if the pump is pumping or not Yea, I figured the gauge deal was overkill. It might be hard to seperate "fluid" pressure from expanding coolant/air pressure. I suppose a clear section of hose spliced in at the heater hose or degas bottle would work? I'm thinking about if you had one that didn't show a concern until the truck was driven. With a spliced in "window" you could see flow? Edit: Why couldn't you put a ball valve in your gauge used to check for excessive pressure rise at the de-gas bottle? Have the valve between the gauge & the tank, then if you close the valve and the WP is creating flow the gauge should go up, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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