DamageINC Posted August 26, 2008 Share Posted August 26, 2008 Has anyone got a foolproof way here of bleeding these thigns out so they start and KEEP running? I've tried the usual method a dozen times and it just doesn't work. Now with the truck I finally finished putting together, the batteries were a little low from the initial tow-in and the customer spending half the day cranking it over to try and start it. I sat there, turned the key on for 30 seconds, then off for 6 seconds.. did this 7 times. Cranked it, fired up, then died after about 5 seconds. Air in the fuel system, and my low batteries aren't doing their job cranking anymore, so I'm charging them now. I'd love to if anyone's just got a click-boom method for this /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shlep Posted August 26, 2008 Share Posted August 26, 2008 Dave, the best way I've found is to attach my regular fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve and hold it open until I see no more air bubbles in the relief hose. Even the one I had to entire system open for 3 days fired right up and kept running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted August 26, 2008 Share Posted August 26, 2008 I robbed the PVT hose from the now defunct WDS. It works great, screw it on the shrader and open the shut off valve and it has the nice long clear hose that I put in my oil drain bucket. Same thing that Shlep is doing. In some extreme instances I have had to use the banjo hose tool number TKIT-2007AP-F screwed into the fuel cooler to get the air out, but it's rare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Warman Posted August 27, 2008 Share Posted August 27, 2008 I just follow the WSM.... Section 310-00 under "General Procedures".... you'll find low pressure bleeding and high pressure bleeding.... Patience is a virtue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted August 27, 2008 Share Posted August 27, 2008 Quote: Patience is a virtue. I used to think installing the bleeder was a must when changing filters... that was because early on I let my "certified" diesel techs service the first trucks. One tech just flipped the key and started the engine... it died... he came looking for the battery charger. Patience, yes, cycle the key 6 times for 30 second intervals after changing filters and all will be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony302600 Posted August 27, 2008 Share Posted August 27, 2008 There is a procedure in the book Dave. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/readthis.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/boink3.gif I've tried everything and this works the best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DamageINC Posted August 27, 2008 Author Share Posted August 27, 2008 I made another post yesterday but for some reason it didn't show up.. ..anyway, yes, I know all about the book procedure. And it didn't work. It took, for whatever reason, over 2 hours for this thing to finally bleed out to the point that it would actually run for more than 3 seconds. Patience may be a virtue but this was flat-out retarded. I followed the book procedure, but to no avail. I ended up hooking up my fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve and just holding the dump-valve open, then commanding the fuel pump on and letting it air out that way. AFter 20 minutes or so, it was still bubbly, and sllllow, it was almost like the fuel pump wasn't working properly. I checked for god power and ground to the pump, everything was fine, tried to start it after another series of key cycles (30 seconds on, 5 seconds off, per the manual) and the same thing. Starts, dies. I ended up pulling both filters, removing the lines, blowing them out, bleeding everything seperately, and finally after over 2 hours of waltzing with this truck, it finally started. Ran for about 10 seconds, then shut off. Did this 2 more times, right in a row, and then it finally kept running. I'm completely confident that I'll get my time out of it too! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/drinkingdude.gif Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordtechnician Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 Are they all this difficult to bleed??? I am doing my first repair, any tips are appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony302600 Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 if you do a pump, it takes a while to bleed. Make sure you do it though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DamageINC Posted September 24, 2008 Author Share Posted September 24, 2008 Actually, what I've been doing and having GREAT success with is just putting my Fuel pressure auge on the truck through the valve, and calmping the release valve so it stays open. Grab the IDS, command the fuel pump on, and let it go for 10 minutes or so. These thigns have fired up almost instantly ever since I started doing this. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shlep Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 Yeah that way does seem to work the best out of all the methods we've tried, even the old PVT hose from the WDS doesn't work as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BustedKnucklez Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 I just keep it simple. I cycle the key on a few times first. Jump out of the truck, stick a pocket screw driver in the shraeder valve on the fuel cooler til nothing comes out. And repeat the process a few times until no bubbles come out. And it starts right up. I have never had one turn off on me in this manner. It's a little ghetto, I know, but it works. Im gonna pressure wash the engine compartment anyway, so phuck it. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mekanik Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 I followed the procedure in the book after a HP fuel pump and the truck fired right up without any problems. Maybe I just got lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 I use the bleed hose each and every time. It takes less than 5 minutes, and gives me the reassurance that the air is gone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieselman456 Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 when I change filters I remove the top filter first then I install filter but leave the cap off then change the bottom filter cycle key till fuel is about one half inch from top install cap then cycle key once truk starts every time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrunoWilimek Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 when I change filters I remove the top filter first then I install filter but leave the cap off then change the bottom filter cycle key till fuel is about one half inch from top install cap then cycle key once truk starts every time +1 /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikill Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 I use the bleed tool everytime and never had a problem. The shrader valve method doesn't work all the time. That just bleeds the low pressure side not the high pressure side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STROKER_T Posted January 27, 2009 Share Posted January 27, 2009 When replacing fuel filters I change the bottom filter first,start the truck for 30 seconds or so,then replace top filter...works good,especially when u have a waiter. The banjo fitting setup on the fuel cooler works the best for me when the engine has been apart,real time saver... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted January 27, 2009 Share Posted January 27, 2009 If you are only replacing the fuel filters you don't need to "bleed" at all. Simply cycling the key on six times for 30 seconds without starting the engine is all you need to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 If you are only replacing the fuel filters you don't need to "bleed" at all. Simply cycling the key on six times for 30 seconds without starting the engine is all you need to do. I use this method, and it works well - gives you time to fill out the LOF sticker, fill out your QC-550, put in your cause and correction statements in the cipherin' machine... Such as this: Factory fit oil filter present during LOF. First LOF - Please discuss maintenance habits with customer. 23,036km or: Please inform customer setting the tire pressures all the same to whatever pressure he likes does not turn the tire light off. Please inform customer to inflate tires to specifications on tire placard inside driver's doorjamb. I REALLY like that this is a tech-only site and customers can't stumble upon our comments. Same guy was told by a Ford engineer that I could re-map his fuel tables to improve his fuel economy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 Quote: Same guy was told by a Ford engineer that I could re-map his fuel tables to improve his fuel economy If you figure out how to do that, I'll mail the PCM out of my v-8 Explorer to ya for some rework. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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