DwayneGorniak Posted June 21, 2007 Share Posted June 21, 2007 Turbo V-band clamps: An air hammer head that is one inch in diameter on the face of the band around the v-clamp and just a pull of the trigger on the air hammer and the clamp jumps right off. No need for penetraing fluid and no damage to the clamp. Another trick: when replacing turbo's, put a lock washer between the bolt head and the steel sleeve of the turbo hold down bolts and they won't cease on again. Makes the turbo's alot easier to remove down the road and you won't have to torch them damn critters out again. When installing turbo's: put only one hold down bolt on driver side in loosely to start with. Use that bolt as a hinge to line the Y-pipe up and tighten the Y-pipe before you put the other two bolts in. Then pull the turbo down into place. Just some little tricks to make life easier for everyone. Hope you enjoy them. One more: when installing egr coolers, get two intake bolts from a core 6,0L engine and cut the heads off them. thread them into the cooler and use them for dowls to put the egr to intake gasket in place. It also helps for lining up the intake and no glue or mess. And I'm all ears for any other tricks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Warman Posted June 21, 2007 Share Posted June 21, 2007 Put a dab of brake caliper grease on the end of your finger and run it around the opening for the FICM connectors.... no more struggling. I would think that everyone knows what the metal tab on the FEAD belt tensioner is for.... For the odd time you find one missing a chunk of wood can substitute - stick it in from the top.... When replacing the EGR cooler hose, remove the adapter from the top of the oil cooler.... no need to remove the intake. To remove a funky dipstick tube, clamp the bars from your flare tool around the tube.... It wont crush the tube like vise grips and can be used as a wrench to turn the tube back and forth. When removing the intake manifold, remove the intake elbow or EGR throttle body. With that stud out of the way there is no need to remove the fan stator. Speaking of the fan stator.... use a backup wrench on the lower spacers to avoid having them turn and break the stator.... When doing branch tubes.... use a thinwall deep 1/4" socket and a T27 bit.... weld these two pieces together and weld those to your extension - you will not drop a socket in the bowels of your "victim". A cut down 6mm allen socket does multiple duty.... shift tower bolts on the 6 speed and makes short work of getting the fuel pressure port plug out. When doing engine work, either remove the front wheels and let your hoist down or simply let the air out of the tires.... If you're on a 4 post, let the air out of the tires and air up the front jack beam and use it as a work platform.... These are pretty simplistic but, often, the simplest solutions to a problem are overlooked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted June 21, 2007 Share Posted June 21, 2007 I would think that everyone knows what the metal tab on the FEAD belt tensioner is for.... For the odd time you find one missing a chunk of wood can substitute - stick it in from the top.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregH Posted June 21, 2007 Share Posted June 21, 2007 If you think you've got air getting into the fuel system from a faulty injector, try this before a balloon test: Remove the secondary fuel filter Turn the key on to fill the bowl Turn off the key, and disconnect the starter wire at the right side fender Route that wire around to the stud on the positive battery cable end on the right battery, and turn the engine over with the starter while watching for bubbles from the standpipe in the middle of the fuel bowl. No bubbles after about 15 to 30 seconds? No compression going into the fuel system then, and no need for the balloon test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted August 4, 2007 Share Posted August 4, 2007 Normally when I do fuel filters I will change the top filter and suck out the fuel before replaceing the filter, then do the bottom filter. While replacing a noisy fuel pump the other day I noticed the top filter housing was empty when I went to replace the secondaary filter, not needing to remove the excess fuel. Unlike the 6.4 these units don't seem to be affected by the air brought on by removing a fuel line. Only takes a second to remove the supply line from the manifold while underneath to allow for the bowl to empty just enough to make room for the second filter. This is only helpful if finding a tool to reomve fluid is unhandy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted August 21, 2007 Share Posted August 21, 2007 Since we're on the topic for neat 6.0L tricks, here are MY gripes. -'03 F-Series turbo hold-down bolt on the BACK side of turbo -removing the turbo from E-series. Is there a "special" technique to getting them out WITHOUT lots of fighting? How about the oil filter supply/return lines? They always seem to be in the way. I've found the easiest way to remove it, is to remove the drain tube FIRST, and then the turbo. But I'm open to other suggestions. -return line from secondary water separator. How do you crack loose the 13/16" fitting nut WITHOUT the 7/8" turning in the process? I can't my 7/8" wrench in there properly. I don't like having to remove the four Torx screws and the fuel pressure regulator pieces out (too many small pieces that can be dropped into unwanted places easily!!!). Even more a pain in the ass on E-series. -turbo up-pipes on F-series. NUFF said!!! -access to the front engine mount bolts on E-series when removing for access to valve cover(s) removal. -bottom row TX-30 bolts on high pressure oil rail on E-series. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 Okay... I'll give my techniques for a few of Mike's gripes... For the rear turbo bolt, I use a good 6pt socket with a stubby 3/8 ratchet facing straight up and use a pry-bar off the turbine housing. I take the E-series turbo out the same way you described... When the oil lines are in the way for pedestal removal, I will take the bolt that hold the lines to the housing out, and unbolt the filter housing from the block and move them out of the way... I have never had a problem removing the 13/16 line, but I spray them all with pb-blaster before hand... For the turbo pipes, I remove the bolts by using my 1/2" gun with a flex socket, and tighten them till they snap off. To put them back on, I have cut the box ends off some cheap 10mm wrenches, lay it on the bolt and tighten the nut from underneath, the wrench "bit" will turn against the pipe and hold the bolt for you... I don't find any difficulty with accessing the front engine mount bolts on the Econoline... and I remove the bottome row bolts with a thin head Snap-On 1/4" flex head ratchet with never a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 Originally Posted By: Jim Warman I would think that everyone knows what the metal tab on the FEAD belt tensioner is for.... For the odd time you find one missing a chunk of wood can substitute - stick it in from the top.... When the tab is missing, I put a small socket in the opening to hold the tensioner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 I have cut the box ends off some cheap 10mm wrenches, lay it on the bolt and tighten the nut from underneath, the wrench "bit" will turn against the pipe and hold the bolt for you... DUDE! If I had a budget for prizes, T-shirts or give-aways, you would get one for this AWESOME idea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony302600 Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 Early 03 rear turbo bolt that is siezed and wont come out no matter what... Use a 17mm turbo socket (stripped bolt heard extractor) and put it over the bolt and washer. Then get a stubby 3/8 and a prybar.... works every single time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DwayneGorniak Posted August 23, 2007 Author Share Posted August 23, 2007 Okay, for the rear bolt on those ugly freekin turbo's I use a reverse eyeometer(mirror) in my left hand over the Y-pipe so I can see what the hell I am doing and a brazing tip on a torch in my right hand. I heat the steel spacer and the turbo flange. Then crack them loose with a stubby ratchet and a Snapon Flank Drive socket. For the ones that are allready stripped I use Craftsman Bolt Out's along with the heat. Thankyou again Bob Villa for those Bolt Outs. And don't forget to put lock washers in with the new bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 That's exactly the way I do it. I was just wondering if there was a better way, but apparently not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shlep Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 As for the E series 6.0's I drop the trans crossmember, 6 bolts, and that turbo will damn near fall out of there. Makes life a whole lot easier. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony302600 Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 I use the 17mm turbo socket that grabs the bolts washer and spacer on the earlier 03's rear turbo bolt a mini 3/8 rachet, assistant pushes the prybar and wala, in 10seconds its out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff_E Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 I like to use this custom fuel pressure test adapter because it is a lot quicker and easier than going after the test port-especially on a hot engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 How do you guys access the driver side valve cover on the E-series? More specifically, the breather box with the six TX-30 bolts with Loc-Tite on them. How do access the middle/lower bolt? Also, when air testing high pressure oil system, is it acceptable to use an old 7.3L injector pigtail to connect to the IPR and a 12-volt battery, when the IDS is being used by someone else in the shop? Just thought I'd ask, since someone decided to revive this topic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Warman Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 Yes, the 12V connection to the IPR works well... not sure if a guy can "set and forget" but we haven't destroyed one yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 If I recall, you shouldn't power an IPR with 12VDC for more than 30 seconds at a time. Mike, the drivers side valve cover will clear without removing the breather box from the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 If I recall, you shouldn't power an IPR with 12VDC for more than 30 seconds at a time. This isn't really covered in the F550 WSM, but in the F650 WSM it states the IPR can be hot wired for up to 120 seconds when doing an air test. On a previous thread some guys stated that they had done it much longer than that, but I think it would be safer to keep the time limit down. Another tech used a 9v battery to activate the IPR which shouldn't have the wattage capability to hurt the IPR. Jeff, are you comfortable checking fuel pressure before the filter and standpipe? I'm not. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff_E Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 Jeff, are you comfortable checking fuel pressure before the filter and standpipe? I'm not. Sometimes no, but in cases when I just want to know if my fuel pump is working it is convenient. Isn't the normal fuel pressure test port before the standpipe too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 Quote: Jeff, are you comfortable checking fuel pressure before the filter and standpipe? I'm not. Sometimes no, but in cases when I just want to know if my fuel pump is working it is convenient. Isn't the normal fuel pressure test port before the standpipe too? No, by my pictures it looks like it's tee'd into the outlet lines that go to the heads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff_E Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 Oh cool, I learned something /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 Been told at STST a flashlight battery (1.5V D-Cell) is enough to get the IPR closed, with no time limit on excessive heat cooking anything. HTH. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted March 15, 2008 Share Posted March 15, 2008 Just found out a nice little trick, if you have the hpop out for a bad sct fitting, bolt only the male part of the fitting onto the branch tube with something in between such as a feeler gage to block it off. Then do the air/nitrogen or porta power test at the icp and see if you have any leaks. This eleminates alotta head scratchin' after you put it all together and she wont run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted March 15, 2008 Share Posted March 15, 2008 Maybe it's just me, but it seems easier to access the HPOP on E-series than it is on F-series. Are you guys removing the intake to access the HPOP on F-series? Also, I've had a batch of E-series trucks coming in for various repairs and found more than a few where the bracket that mounts between the alternator and the air inlet (or EGR throttle plate if equipped)have broken in the middle. They all seem to break in the same spot. Anyone else had this? I've since had our parts department keep at least one in stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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