sneakypete

when you say 2007 I'm assuming it's a new body style truck then? yes it would be off warranty. GM is terrible for terminal micro fretting. any drive by wire failure if it's throttle body of app sensor related dtc's are in my opinion the hardest GM dtc to repair. you can never duplicate it, as you've seen now. probably a good guess on the app sensor. I would take a look at connectors x109 and x205 if the vehicle comes back

I am a former GM tech, so any questions about GM products let me know. as far as GM tpms it's pretty much the same as any other brand. you will have the best luck with a tpms tool. you can purchase the EL-50448 and it works great, bought one myself. only problem is it will not display any info. as stated the autel is a good universal tool. once you have activated the tpms relearn procedure using either the key fob, dic in the cluster or the scan tool; you go LF, RF, RR, LF. will honk as each one registers properly. if one doesn't honk, it usually means a failed sensor. using a universal tool such as the autel will allow you to see if it will produce an id or not. one thing I find on GM tpms is there are extremely sensitive to any radio frequency in the shop. when I was a dealer tech I would do all my relearns outside. had very good success doing them this way. any other questions let me know

circled is the area of where the pcv tube can deteriorate. don't forget to check the clean side of the pcv system at the right (far) valve cover as well.

since this is a 3.4L the pcv does not have an oring. just installs into the left (front) valve cover. what does your trims do at 2500 rpm. what iac counts at idle. whats the map in kpa at idle. or better yet. what's your vacuum gauge read. assuming you have high trims at idle only, try pinching or blocking the brake booster hose. also, the dirty side of the pcv connects to the top of the intake under a bracket. I've had many tubes deteriorate there. spray some brake clean and watch the o2's and fuel trim.

still setting codes? do you have a scan tool that you get post the fuel trims.

that could be. I haven't heard that. very interesting.

but you need at least 25 psi for proper vct operation.

try your DRB3 if you have one. also take a look at the battery connections. I've fixed so many Cummins due to a poor battery connection. any voltage drop and they do weird things. my brother in-laws 06 common rail lost its intake heater, transmission lost over drive and by the time he phoned wouldn't shift worth shit and also started setting bank 2 injector codes and started to buck. had him check his batteries. removed cables and cleaned reinstalled. running great now.

working on a 2012 f250 with 170,000 km's. p207f set. started diag. scr dosing test passed properly. inspected the grate with a borescope. no restrictions. inspected the back of the dpf. no cracking found but had some soot. this is my first one so I'm not sure what too much soot would look like. performed pin point test RD, RK AND W. haven't removed the egr cover to inspect. so my question is what are you guys still finding on these? has anyone had an egr cooler restriction causing this? I'm leaning towards an scr but would like to be sure. if scr is replaced should the nox sensor and module also be replaced. just wondering what you guys are finding in the field. my testing has come up empty handed.

Bruce is right. The pcm won't ground the ASD relay until it sees a valid crank signal.

sorry sounds like I'm a little late. check out Tork Teknology. great company.

Hello I have a 2012 F250 6.7L come from a used car dealer. They bought it as a no start. Their technician worked on it for almost 3 months and gave up. It has an EGR delete and an exhaust delete. He installed mulitple aftermarket programmers. After that didn't do anything, he took a fuel sample and determined it was bad. sounds like he drained the tank and installed fresh diesel. after that he gave up. now i have it. i took a quick look at it. setting p2291 and a low pressure switch dtc, sorry dont have my notes here. cranking, it hits 10000 psi. i verified the low pressure switch operating properly. dtc's set instantly after cleared. i returned the pcm calibrations back to stock. those dtc's don't return. during cranking it sounded terrible. found oil over filled, got about 20-25 litres out of the crankcase... installed proper oil and new filter. batteries were also cooked. driver side battery sitting in a pool of acid. new batteries and now cranking rpm is appropriate. did a relative and found #6 cylinder at almost nothing. synch pid is 'yes' at all times. rpm present and no cmp fault. pressure is around 10000 psi and it tries to start but won't. couple of questions. i'm very fresh to 6.7's so i apologize for my ignorance. i also no nothing about aftermarket tuners. can having an egr delete and exhaust delete cause a no start? shouldnt it start regardless? obviously i have a compression issue on #6 and will be doing a compression test, but is there any pids i should be focusing on for this no start or is it the same as the previous engines. once again sorry for my ignorance. not very much 6.7l experience. thanks for reading

Consulab is an amazing company in my opinion. I met Nathan while I was at Visions in KC a couple years ago. They do great things in my opinion. Their other mock ups are just as impressive. I really enjoyed the A/C mock up.

hahaha. awesome

engine light comes on and goes into reduced power. have had a couple things set this code. pull the conduit back at the tb connector and give each wire a tug. I think it's the yellow wire that likes to break. ground problems at g103 and g104 can set this dtc. when I was at the dealer, the guaranteed fix was a rewire. pcm to tb new terminals end to end. I've seen people have luck with soldering the tb terminals only. also check the freeze frame for a low voltage concern. this will set the dtc's as well.

ordered the kit in 5 minutes. will be here in 15 days. thanks guys for the help. dont know why the parts guy took a week and told me he couldn't get it... oh well.

thanks guys. will do that after the holidays. happy new years to everyone here.

haha happy holidays to you as well. I was on the rttp site as suggested, and it seemed to be directed at American purchasing. I'll have to give rotunda a call myself. I have a couple of back probing kits but when I saw the rotunda probe kit at the price, I was quite surprised. I was a gm tech for over 10 years. kent moore's kit is around 650 bucks, so this one is a bargain. not to derail the thread... lots of rig work in slave lake? work beside a tech from grande prairie. he tells me the work never stopped. I have a couple cousins working in Lloyd and buddy of mine was working at Bonneville. hope you guys are keeping busy.

ok found the rttp link. thank you for your help.

hello, just started with ford recently and am trying to purchase flex probe kit nud105-r025d. I think this is the latest kit. my parts guys says he's unable to purchase from rotunda. anyone in Canada know of a number I can call rotunda to purchase this kit. thanks.