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Chad_Kelsoe

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Everything posted by Chad_Kelsoe

  1. Another tech here in the shop just got one in. After it ran for a few mintues knocking, it locked up. He got the heads off this morning and he has piston contact on the front 2 cylinders, along with a lot of metal in the lower oil pan. It's a 2011 with 16k miles of it. No glow plug codes though
  2. I had one a few weeks ago. 2014 with 6900 miles that was a leased truck through Enterprise rent a car that the customer filled up with gas, then drove it till it quit. I got it to run, but took a long crank time to build rail pressure and ran rough. Quoted a fuel system. Enterprise decided to sell it to a scrap yard instead.
  3. There was a thread on IATN a few months ago concerning something like this. A few guys were installing Dorman oil coolers and then a few months later the base gasket would fail and get sucked into the HPOP.
  4. I repaired a leak yesterday on a F-250 and the gasket was covered under powertrain warranty, per OASIS.
  5. I did one just a week ago. I just did a partial cab lift just like you would do if pulling an engine, and then you have all kinds of room. Don't even need to pull the LH up-pipe.
  6. Doesn't fit the TSB. No codes at all and it runs fine. Guy just noticed it running warmer than normal. Hotline thinks the melted glow plug was caused by engine overheat from low coolant, and recommended to replace both cylinder heads. I'm gonna get the heads off later and see if I might have any more damage.
  7. So I got one here that customer is complaining of coolant loss. Says he noticed that it seemed to be running warmer than normal, and when checking the coolant found the primary side 3 gallons low. I check it yesterday and a pressure test finds no external leaks. Bellhousing, radiator, water pump is all dry and no signs anywhere of any leaks. I let it set for probably 45 mintues to an hour with 16 psi of pressure on the system. I go back to move it off a drive on rack to a flat stall to pull the EGR cooler and bench test it and it hydrolocks on start up. I pulled the pipes off the EGR cooler and they are dry. Pulled all the glow plugs and all 4 on the drivers side is wet, and #5 glow plug has melted the tip. I've sent in a request to hotline, but haven't heard anything back yet. Anyone got any ideas? I'm wondering if the cooler began leaking, and the low coolant levels caused my driver's side head to crack. This one has ESP coverage( truck has 121,000 miles on it), so I'm trying to figure out exactly how far I need to tear down. Sorry the pic isn't clearer, I was having some issues with the camera.
  8. Dewault is the was to go...http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF883M2-20-volt-Lithium-8-Inch/dp/B00BWFIKZO. I had a Matco 3/8 impact, but this one hands down is much better. A coworker had a Snap-on before he also purchased one of these.
  9. Well they did say at that time that a short block replacement would be needed at least. Now that I have the heads off, I have found that #1 and #5 pistons made contact with the cylinder heads. Performing a Cost Cap told me to replace with a long block, now I'm awaiting prior approval. At least it didn't have damaged glow plugs .
  10. Got a 1993 E-350 getting a new starter and solenoid, a 2008 F-350 that I'm reinstalling the fuel tank after being relined( it also got a complete fuel system), and a 2011 6.7 that snapped the crankshaft right in front of the 2nd main bearing. I pulled the engine out friday and got the oil pans off, now hotline wants me to pull the heads also and inspect for piston to head contact.
  11. Due to the high fuel trims at idle and how your O2 sensors seem to work fine above 1500RPM, I believe you have a vacuum leak. I'm not much for spraying anytype of fluid around an engine comparment. I usually keep one of those small bottles of propane around with a piece of hose and about 2 feet of brake line attached and thats how I check for vacuum leaks( while watching scan data- fuel trims and O2 voltages). There is also the idea that you can use a smoke machine and smoke the intake, but I have found times where pressurizing the intake will cause small leaks like intake gaskets to seal up and not show anything. I would be looking for PCV hoses that are dry rotted and leaking. Here is a link to a site that has good information on fuel control on gasoline engines....http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h44.pdf...
  12. Pull the lifters for that cylinder and see if the roller has failed on the intake lifter. Almost betcha the lifter is stuck in the bore. If so, I recommend at least a long block, as those rollers have likely gone through the low pressure oil pump by now.
  13. So my V-10 motor has went to crap also. I gave the customer 2 fixes; put in a cheap plug repair kit, or replace the head to solve the problem for good. Well after a few minutes, my service writer sells him a long block assembly. I'm ok with it, so this morning I get it all back together and fire it up. After it runs for a few minutes, I notice oil leaking from the transmission area
  14. This one is dry as a bone underneath. I know its a hydralic issue internal to the trans somewhere, but not being able to verify it I'm just doing what the higher ups say. Personally, at this point I'd rather throw a complete in it anyways.
  15. They got a new recall on the cooler lines on them things. Got a number on it? Running the vin through OASIS doesn't show anything. This thing has been a major pain in the rear since it began. It was in route from the builder to the dealer when the driver said the trans starting slipping to the point were he pulled over and they had it towed to us. I drove it several times and my shop foreman drove it also, with no signs of any slippage. It sets codes for SSB and SSD solenoids, along with apply time codes for those clutchs. It also set a engine overspeed code. Never could verify, so I got with hotline and they had me pull the pan and look for signs of water and shake the trans filter out to look for clutch material. Doing so found no water and a very small amount of clutch sediment in the filter. They then had me remove and dissassemble the solenoid body looking for clutch material. Of course everything was clean, so they told me to put it back together and verify the customer concern. My foreman had me replace shift solenoids B and D while I put it back together. So once again my shop foreman and shop manager drove this thing nearly 50 miles with no issues. So manager makes the call to release it. Driver comes gets it, he gets 20 miles and it acts up again. Brings it back with all the same codes stored. Shop foreman takes a ride with him, it won't act up again. So he gets with the FSE for our area, he tells us to perform an air test on the trans and if it passes, replace the whole unit. So I ordered one yesterday.... I've only been doing trans work the past year or so I've been working for Ford, so it's been a great adventure on this one. My foreman's been working on Ford trans for the past 15 years, and he was stumped so I don't feel so bad about it.
  16. Got an 03 E-450 ambluance getting the front end rebuilt( new ball joints, I beam bushings, sway bar bushings, coil springs, shocks, tie rod ends, radius arm bushings), a 2001 F-350 with the V-10 that blew #4 spark plug out( #2 blew out about 1000 miles ago), an LCF with a rusted tank and bad fuel pump, an 08 F-250 with a seized cv joint in the front driveshaft that busted that transfer case in half, a 2013 motohome with 126 miles getting a new trans, and a 6.7 F-550 just got dropped off that is venting out the secondary coolant jug after climbing a hill.
  17. 4.88 limited slip rear axle, 15,000lbs GVW 5400 lbs front axle, 11,000lb rear axle, 49 state emissions. Looking at the oasis info, looks like a plain jane work truck. 05S28 is the speed control recall. A fused jumper harness is installed between the cruise deactivation switch on the brake master cylinder and wiring harness to prevent a "thermal event".
  18. I leave the intake and fenderwell in place. I have small enough hands I can reach over in and get the EBP nut loose. My biggest fight is getting the wiring harness off the lower stud on the backside of the cooler.
  19. Well I had my first P0401 truck come in this week. Running the KOER test did not return P2457. I've seen several other guys in the shop replace these for restricted coolers and had a good idea that was my issue. However I wanted to see if I could verify it without teardown. So using IDS, I commanded PRM to 1500RPM and VGT to 90%. Watching MAF in G/S, I commanded the EGR valve and bypass to 0%. MAF was reading around 75 g/s. I then opened the EGR valve to 100%. My MAF A dropped down to about 50 G/S. I then opened the EGR bypass to 100%. My MAF then dropped to 30 G/S. So after a cool down, I removed the tube from the EGR cooler to intake and took a peak. Sure enough, my cooler is restricted. So I swap coolers and retry my little test; Found with the same conditions, MAF dropped to 30 G/S with the EGR commanded 100% with the bypass closed. Opening the bypass only dropped the MAF down to 27 G/S. Not sure if my little test is 100% accurate, but it beats going though all the pinpoint tests to come up empty.
  20. Did you like the hotel? Is the area pretty safe also?
  21. Well I checked and the Hampton Inn by the Arch has no rooms those days that I'm going. Thanks for all the suggestions Bruce. We enjoy watching her younger brother play baseball, so I think we're gonna try to go see a ball game.
  22. Thanks for the suggestions Bruce. I've looked at Mapquest and they both seem to be the same distance either way to the class. My main concern is somewhere safe to stay as my wife will likey be staying at the hotel while I'm in class. By the looks of it, we'll probably stay at the one close to the Arch. And while I don't follow baseball, I wouldn't mind going and seeing a game.
  23. I have just been signed up for 6.7 class in St Louis June 4th through the 6th, but it's up for me to find my hotel. I'll likely come up the day before so I can rest(I'm in north Alabama and looks to be a 6 hour drive). My wife will be coming with me also( the 4th is our anniversary), so I'm looking for a decent hotel in a decent part of town. Any suggestions?
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