pcassidy111

Does anyone know why the TSB (05-14-8) for upgrading to the metal cold air CAC tube only applies to 2005 vehicle built before 2/16/2005. Has anyone seen problems with the plastic tubes on vehicles built after 2/16/2005?

It was 43 degrees F in the shop this morning-burrrrr. Estimated high is 69 degrees F. Had to put my longjohns on under my uniform. Had the woman in the office warm up my boots...(with her space heater). Had to change the oil on a 6.0 pickup on the cold concrete, at least I had radiant heat from the engine. Gosh I sure hate working in the shop in the winter, too cold to function. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

All of the tools necessary to rebuild/adjust the "Variable Venturi" (VV2700 and VV7200) carbs.

The Matco tool truck has plastic scrapers. I don't like using scotch brite pads-I think they are as bad as using the rolo loc buff puffs on an engine. I have found a brass vegetable brush from the supermarket to be good at cleaning gasket surfaces.

Can the cetane boost and performance improver be used as a preventative maintainence item (with every fill up) without causing any problems? Is this the same chemical as the Stanadyne Performane Formula? Will damage occur if I use too much of this product (too high a concentration) like 8 oz for 40 gallons-8 oz is easier than trying to measure out 6.5 oz for 40 gallons.

As you can probably tell, this is the first diesel that I have owned so I am somewhat parnoid when I hear noises that sound like a problem in a gas engine. I came across some information on the International Engine web site that talked about 'cackle'. It describes what I am hearing, an intermittent rod knock like noise that is loudest at the driver's side rear of the engine at warm idle, that goes away off idle. Can't determine the date of this information-do you folks working on the 05 motors hear the cackle or is this old information? Thanks to Jim and the Diesel Doctor for your replies on this subject.

Thanks for the info. Just towed it to the dealer for the transfer case leak and I will add some dye to the oil and try to find a leak and then send it in for a warranty repair if necessary. Looked at the pictures of oil leaks and I did see the assy lube on my crank. The rubber plug below the crank was wet on top and with a mirror I saw no oil in the bottom of the bell housing. The substance was black and my oil is still honey colored so I am hoping that it is excessive assy lube (wishful thinking?) Regarding the 6.0L coming out of warranty I am gathering as much info as I can from this site regarding R&R etc. I thought pulling a 5.4L in a pickup was a pain (until my dealer friend told me about lifting the cab), doing a 6.0 does not look like fun at all-you dealer guys really earn your money on these. Why can't they be like the old VW bugs, 4 bolts, a couple of wires and a fuel line and it is out? Thanks again for the info, Pete

I have an 05 that, when idling warm, sounds like it has a lower end knock-a dull thud. Crawled around under the truck listening to the pan, block, trans etc with a screwdriver but could not pinpoint it. Did notice that the combustion noise (the ticking noise) cycled with the knock. Is this a normal noise? How do you guys find noisy rods, lifter etc, these engines are a symphony of noises. While under the truck I did notice a few drips of black oil on the bottom of the bellhousing. It came from the inside, hit the top of the rubber plug and exited the bellhousing. Could it be assembly lube, my oil is still a golden color. I looked in the gallery of leaks and did see the dark material on the crankshaft of mine, but the top and sides of the bellhousing plug were also wet. Do they put dye in the oil at the factory? The oil does not have the tint to it that the oil dye I use gives the oil. Also noticed that the output shaft seal on the transfer case let go and the transfer case is nearly empty (according to the dipstick that I made). Think they will give me a new transfer case? This truck only has 1100 miles on it! Any information would be greatly appreciated, I work at an independant shop and we have not seen many of these motors yet (most of our commercial accounts still use gas motors.

A Taurus with a bad Integrated Relay Control Module, a Taurus with a bad waterpump, a Jeep Grand Cherokee with a bad governor pressure sensor (in the trans), a Durango with a bad governor pressure sensor and bad ball joints (3). Oh, and a Toyota with a bad O2 sensor. Today was all check outs, tomorrow is all repairs, this is starting out as a very profitable week. As you can probably tell I work at an Independant shop, I use this forum as a resource for my own PSD and for the few that are starting to come in. Great resource for 'correct' information, unlike other diesel forums.

I am switching from a 460 gas motor truck to an 05 6.0L PSD to tow an 11000# trailer. Most of my towing is in the Sierra's (6% grades, 8600 ft passes). I am going to add a transmission temp gauge but I am unsure if I need an EGT gauge. I do not plan on making any powertrain modifications (chip, air intake, exhaust etc). Does the PCM software programming have safeguards built in to prevent excessively high exhaust gas temps under all operating conditions? Would adding a cat back exhaust system effect the designed operation of the turbo or provide a significant drop in EGT to make it worth the money? My diesel experience is limited to the GM 350 diesels with mechanical injection circa 1980's (Olds and GM truck) and my shop only works on gas motors so I have no experience on the new generation of diesels so any input would be greatly appreciated.

I am switching from a 460 gas motor truck to an 05 6.0L PSD to tow an 11000# trailer. Most of my towing is in the Sierra's (6% grades, 8600 ft passes). I am going to add a transmission temp gauge but I am unsure if I need an EGT gauge. I do not plan on making any powertrain modifications (chip, air intake, exhaust etc). Does the PCM software programming have safeguards built in to prevent excessively high exhaust gas temps under all operating conditions? Would adding a cat back exhaust system effect the designed operation of the turbo or provide a significant drop in EGT to make it worth the money? My diesel experience is limited to the GM 350 diesels with mechanical injection circa 1980's (Olds and GM truck) and my shop only works on gas motors so I have no experience on the new generation of diesels so any input would be greatly appreciated.