GregH

What was the oil level?

I'll bet you have a bad engine control harness.. Can you scope the crank and cam signals at the PCM? If you can't afford to replace the entire harness, I've gotten away with making a shielded harness to overlay the crank and cam wiring...

So I was cruising the web over the weekend, and I kept noticing these ads for JustAnswer. I decided to check it out, and noticed that there is a link to become an "expert" on there. Experts on JustAnswer receive questions from users of the site and answer them. The users offer a small fee for a professional answer, and the site forwards 1/4 to 1/2 of the money to the expert. I filled out their application and took their 10 question test to become qualified to be a Ford expert. I was surprised about the test - one question was naming the wire colors that feed the left bank injectors on an 01 E-350 7.3L. Another was which shift solenoid could be at fault to cause a loss of engine braking in manual 1st on an 08 taurus x. I passed the test, and was invited to become an expert. But I must first register myself with Lexis Nexis and pay to have my employment record verified. Yeah, I stopped there... Anyone else snooped around there?

pwned

And I was just copying the picture from the PC/ED, too.. Beat me to it.

How about this from the PC/ED: Temperature Engine Coolant/Intake Air Temperature Sensor Values °F °C Voltage Resistance (K ohms) 248 120 .27 1.18 230 110 .35 1.55 212 100 .46 2.07 194 90 .60 2.80 176 80 .78 3.84 158 70 1.02 5.37 140 60 1.33 7.70 122 50 1.70 10.97 104 40 2.13 16.15 86 30 2.60 24.27 68 20 3.07 37.30 50 10 3.51 58.75

Found out this morning - transmission fluid is not reimbursable if found low during PDI because, as Alex said, those fluid level checks are no longer required. I think if it's got a dipstick, it should be checked on every vehicle - regardless. What is reimbursable? Washer fluid. Oh, it takes 16 gallons of washer fluid to offset 5 quarts of Mercon LV. Amazing how many of our new vehicles will be requiring a whole gallon of washer fluid in the future...

That plastic that used to be the standpipe melts at 350 degrees. Unfortunatly, when it melts, it flows with the engine oil - which means it'll go everywhere oil does... Once the engine died, it cooled down below 350, and the plastic solidified into a nice veneer through the entire system. Getting it out will be next to impossible. You might be fighting an uphill battle. I would consider getting a used engine and going with that if you don't want to break it off for a reman...

So we got our first 6.7 yesterday. I've already been to class, and we got to test drive the classroom trainer, so the vehicle was no surprise to me. Of course, we had our fair share of gawkers, and several test drives were performed prior to the PDI. I finally got the vehicle late in the day yesterday. I didn't finish the inspections before the end of the day yesterday, so I left it in my bay with the hood up overnight. Guess what - the vehicle was gone this morning when I got to work. It was in the washrack being cleaned up - already sold. So, lets overlook the absolute lack of respect for me, the technician, by closing the hood and removing a vehicle from the bay... After I got the vehicle back from cleanup, I finished my inspections. The transmission fluid was 5 quarts low. Yah, that wasn't a typo. 5 quarts. I made sure the service manager was aware that this vehicle went through 50 miles of test drives by various gawkers berfore an actual technician completed the inspection process. Too bad the tranny didn't burn up - that would have been a hoot. Production date was 2/25. Anyone else seeing lack of fluid fill on these?

Interesting that you should bring up crankshaft distortion... I can see that it would cause all manner of difficulties, what with some of the pistons coming up earlier than others when compared to the cam lobes. What kind of clearance is there between the piston and the valves normally? How many degrees out of phase would the crank need to be before the piston and valves interfere? Would drivability problems present before then? Contribution or adaptive limit codes? Maybe even a popping in the intake? As for limiting exposure to claims of inadequate repairs - it seems as if warranty and policy guidelines have forced us in the Memphis region to repair as cheaply as possible. Blowing cost caps will happen, but we have to come by it honestly - funny word to use in this case - If there is any way to keep it under the cost cap, we have found it necessary to do so. We've been playing by Fords rules, and look where it has gotten us - condition codes on out diesel engine and diesel drivablilty lines. Take this one for instance: Straightforward blown EGR cooler. follow the TSB for testing and replacing. Found P0611 in memory while EEC testing. Do the procedure for reflashing and checking FICM_MPWR and find low voltage. So we replace the FICM while doing the EGR cooler repair. Now we're screwed because a 12B599 is not normally claimed with the TSB ops. ACES boots the claim stating the repair should not be coded to a 6A642. So it gets moved from diesel engine to diesel driveabilty by recoded to a 12B599, which then puts this repair 400% higher than market average - duh, FICM failures do not usually have EGR and oil coolers and their associated labor. CPR/1000 goes up. So do we open two lines? No, that will increase the R/1000 line on the 126, as well as be overlapping labor. Do we send it out with a faulty FICM? Of course not, for the simple reason of customer assurance. We have to fix it - it's all legit - and it's even cheaper for Ford to do it at one time. But there is no way we've found to code it without Ford slapping us. The 126 is pretty good at exposing hiding places for repairs. It also leaves the only remaining possibility for getting the numbers in line - shorting the labor ops claimed. Our dealer has not gone there yet, instead opting to "repair" a stock unit or two and selling drain plug gaskets when legitimately necessary on 5/100 warranty vehicles with a deductible (it gets turned in as a $0 claim, but still counts on the 126 to lower CPR/1000). It may be a matter of time, however...

A small claim on a virgin truck will bring down the percentages on the part cost/vehicle, labor cost/vehicle and r/1000 lines. Virgin trucks haven't had a claim in the last six months. I've got a 6.4 torn down right now waiting on pistons and a head. The o-ring on the dipstick tube for that unit will get replaced, of course. It just won't get turned in with the rest of the parts...

I've only had to short or long block a very few 6.0's... Since they don't bend rods very often, the cylinder walls tend to survive more often for me. That is usually the deciding factor as to repair it or block it. If it needs a short block due to cyilnder wall damage, and it has a head failure too, then it usually ends up over cost cap and gets a long block. Crank and cam damage is usually way, way under the cost cap - even with a new oil pump and front cover... And it's a piece of cake to swap a cam and rinse the block clean... 6.4's tend to work out the same way. I've had a handful with a bent #8 and a scarred cylinder wall. That gets a short block. However, I've had more than a few with bent rods and no cylinder wall damage that I've been able to fix just fine. Melted pistons have been repairable for me so far, too. The recent long blocks have been due to fuel system failures. Those injectors and the pump will blow right through a cost cap... So, it seems that I do a lot more repairing than replacing. Why is my 126 completely through the roof, too? Someone has got to be below the median - it sure doesn't seem to be any of us! Is someone pulling an "I Dream of Jeanie" head bob in the parking lot and writing up a 0 dollar claim for the repair? We, in a desperate attempt to get the 126 back under control in the face of several rather expensive repairs (even though they were repaired rather than replaced), are committing an act of warranty fraud. I've written up a stock unit with a 6.4L for an oil leak that won't actually be fixed. Another one of those pesky oil diptick tube o-rings... I'm not proud; in fact I am rather ashamed. I can't believe that it has come to this... I am sure that it won't affect any of you - none of you are in our market area that I am aware of.

I agree that these trucks do seem to fail in a more catastrophic manner than the 6.0's did. How many bent rods did we get when the EGR cooler on them blew? I guess I've been lucky with the melted pistons so far as to not have block damage...

I'll take the other side of that - I've been successful in replacing failed components only when possible. Melted pistons can be swapped out cheaply, and as long as the cylinder wall is not damaged it'll run just fine. Of course, if there is metal transfer from the piston to the head, it'll need a head. I've got one down now that is on it's third piston in the #8 hole and second piston in the #2 hole. Two of those failures were melted pistons, and one was a bent rod that did not scar the cylinder wall. If I had put short blocks in for all these repairs, my 126 report would be through the roof.

This unit only knows WOT and off... It is constantly grossly overloaded and is driven by an employee that hasn't yet gotten that first car insurance discount you get when you turn 25... If I could feel sorry for a truck, it would be this one.

There are no open recalls on the OASIS report. Would it show there if the VIN was on the FSA list? Got the head off. Just as before, two burned exhaust valves and two Picasso pistons. Metal transferred to the number 8 injector tip, so i got prior approval for two injectors instead of just one. The fuel filters were first fit, but it still has good low side pressure. It will have new filters when I put it back together. The high pressure test didn't go out of spec, and I must have run it two dozen times before I finally found the dye leaking.

This truck and I go way back.... I've already had to put in a short block from EGR cooler failure, and then a #8 rod and piston from another EGR cooler failure. Then #2 and #8 pistons and left side head from the first injector failure, and probably the same song and dance this time 'round. I can use an impact on the body bolts, now... I need to start making tally marks in permanent marker under the body.. Here's the quote from the hotline: Quote: Hotline Assistance Request VIN: 1FDAF56R88EA21436 Vehicle: 2008 F-SERIES RO Number: 58062 Contact ID: 103710403 Request Date: 04-16-2010 Technician: GREG HOLEKAMP -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Request Form Details: Description of vehicle concern: Engine misses and runs rough, CEL is illumianted Diagnostics performed: EEC test - P0266, P0284, P0297. Oil level is at least 6 inches overfull. Relative compression test shows 12% drop on cylinders 2 and 8, and power balance shows 40% drop on 2 and 8. Remove valve covers, add oil dye to fuel, and run high pressure fuel test - Dye present on #1 injector body nut. DTC Codes: P0266, P0284, P0297 Parts replaced: None Question: Is fuel quality good? Answer: yes Question: Are fuel filters good? Answer: no Question: What is the fuel pressure? Answer: 5 psi Tech's question: This vehicle has required several major engine repairs so far. Last time around, 5,000 miles ago, #2 and #8 showed major damage from an overfull engine oil level. That time it was caused by the #4 injector body leaking. Now #1s injector body is leaking and caused the same damage. Why are these injectors failing in this manner, and what can I do to fix the condition? Hotline response: Greg, The fuel injectors can leak at this location as there is an O-ring seal that can fail causing the failure that you have noted. Since this vehicle is not within the build date for the injector recall, we recommend that you replace the leaking fuel injector along with repairing the vehicle as needed. Please be sure to clean out the CAC per Section 303-12 of the WSM to prevent further damage. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- so yeah.. no help at all..

So, we meet again, my old friend. Yesterday I was greeted with my favorite boomerang truck, again with severe damage at cylinders 2 and 8. Oil level is 6 inches over, CAC is full, and a high pressure test with the valve covers off and dye in the fuel shows that #1 injector body is the culprit this time. Last time, it was #4 that caused similar damage. That was 5,000 miles ago. WTF?

While I was in the 6.7 class, I got a look at the special service tools. The engine lifting apparatus bolts to the engine block in place of the turbo, and features a single eye for a hook on the engine crane... So they want us to lift the 6.7 in this same manner. Of course, the factory lifting eyes hang way out to the sides. They are obviously removed prior to fitting the body..

For the prior approval claims I take the vehicle build date and subtract five days - that's the date I use for engine build date. For engine serial number I type in "unknown" and haven't had one turned down yet...

Watching the tone of one's voice and the language you use... In our shop, the service write up area shares the same airspace as the work area. Foul language, techcnician outbursts, loud music with rude lyrics, arguments, and other crap float over to the customer's ears and generate a very unprofessional aura.

Staying quiet is not the right thing to do. Even if the truck spends much of it's time off road - it is a commercial vehicle and is run every day. I don't think it is right to remove emissions components for any vehicle - on or off road. The atmosphere doesn't care if the trucks is on the pipeline right of way or not... But, being a tattletale is not right either. If I were in your shoes, and if the vehicle has not been repaired yet, I would price the repair as customer pay to the appropriate personell - including the price of a new DPF. The mouth breather that would normally approve a repair for this company probably won't be authorized to approve such an amount of money and would send you up the food chain. You will then have to explain your case for customer pay to someone of intelligence, and the right person will be made aware of the situation. And if the first person you talk to gives you blanket approval, then the truck leaves with it's emissions components intact. But those are some pretty big if's.

Wasn't there something about cracked standpipes causing a concern like this? Have you dropped in a replacement ICP sensor to see if it behaves the same?

I've got an ambulance here with a failed lifter on #1 exhaust and severe wear on the remainder of the valve train components. Taylor Made ensured that their ambulance bodies would not be removed by running their harnesses through the cab, and using only one color of wire (orange). I thought briefly about using the hot wrench on the harness... "I got the engine fixed for ya. Don't know why nothing in the box is working.." But I figured I'd do a partial lift. I didn't disconnect anything not required for engine removal - except for the cooling stack; that all had to go. I stuffed a piece of 4x4 on the rear body mounts, and stacked 4x4 with 2x4 on the front mounts. Two errors - I ended up having to separate the steering shaft to clear the horizontal EGR cooler - found that during the lift. I also found that I damaged the EGRTA sensor - clearance was insufficient at the firewall. I left the hole empty during engine installation. The turbos and the oil pan can stay in place. Now, for stringing the engine up on a chain. I would not have had clearance to use the provided hooks. So, I took the turbo heat shield off and removed the front turbo mounting bolt. I then used a 6.0L head bolt in the same hole, and put the bolt through the last link of my sho-nuff chain. I put a loop in the other end of the chain and started the lift. Turns out that the engine's center of gravity is really close to under the front turbo mounting bolt - so it lifted nice and straight out of the vehicle. Installation was a breeze, too - relatively speaking. I looked over the tools before using them - The bolt should be able to hold a 10,000lb load, and the chain is rated for 8,000lb load. The lift should be easier on the chain than a normal lift because of the straight line pull. As for the threads in the pedestal, they should also be able to support a 10,000lb load - this figure was taken from the maximum clamp load for a 14mm grade 8 bolt. And as for the pedestal, I figured it was beefy enough for this application. It still made me feel uneasy to see the engine swinging from a single point. But I can't believe how simple it was, and how slick the removal and installation was! Three of us pulled it in about 20 minutes after all the bolts were loose, and two of us took 30 minutes to reinstall... Almost made me want to take it out and do it again - it went too quickly!

Long after the bell, he guesses a horrible overapplication of dielectric grease from the installation of the radiator hoses...