8WA Sman

Nothing out of the ordinary with the fuel trims. Maybe the water trick for the 6.0 would work for the control valves on the pump. By any chance does the fuel cooler system have a problem? Whats the FRP voltage when this happens.

Matt, that is a very interesting observation. I will almost not even work on a high milage 6.4 without running a relative compression test with my Pico first. I am not sold on the IDS for a RC test on 6.4

Well I got my E version D-Link last week & finally got around to installing it today. I run Windows 7 and today like a dumb/good tech I "NOW" do my research, well it looks like I only needed to get 1 instead of 2......Well since I can't figure out how to post the direct link. Go to PTS - IDS Support - Wireless - D-Link Adapter Information If the range still sucks, I may use the other D-Link

Chad, was your internal trans because of a trans temp sensor issue/code??? I had to resort to replacing idler pulley bearings on a GM 3.5L because I could not get the OE pulley today & the AC Delco pulley had a wobble...The Nachi bearings I put in will probably outlast the car.

Rear brakes & hub bearings on a '12 F-450, I set the rotor/hub on these pipes to drain, hub to axle shaft bolt holes down.

Sometimes I get lucky.....When I noticed what was wrong with this picture I thought the brake job was done. Sometimes I think our job is not so much "Where Waldo" as it is what ALL did Waldo mess up. The red silicone used on the axle shaft to hub seal instead of an o-ring should have sent the alarms going off in my head. Here is the corrected pic

At least it had the 09S09 done ....

Well I hope it works better because my old one sometimes wouldn't even reach to under the hood. This is a real pain when running active commands & it would start messing up. My signal would usually show good but it would still lose connection, my AM scan tool with Bluetooth has over twice the range.

I ordered mine this morning because I lost 1 of the D-links(I think it got left in my uniform cargo pocket Do I understand that these new one's should have better range?

Like this? http://www.nastf.org/i4a/pages/index.cfm?pageid=3292

Note to self... when you shear a radius arm off by hand while trying to remove the nut just go home I didn't.... instead I tried to recover by running an Expedition in & trying to bang out a set of lower ball joints.....Key word is "Bang" if you can't hammer the lowers out just stop & get a complete arm coming. I cut the flange off so I could get enough force on it to press it out, well too much of the aluminum came with, then I had 2 vehicles waiting on parts & the OE arm was in Detroit (Well customer opted to go with an AM lower control arm) On a side note the purple fuse in the pic is from my house HVAC, first hot day the A/C would not work, the control wires going to the compressor were bare @ shorting out on the air handler case. Found the problem before the residential HVAC guy called me back so....

Why....... I took more time & energy to return the truck to proper wiring & then to diagnose the original problem.

They can crack the circuit board from the weight of the chip/bouncing around.

Since when??

Congrats on the baby

I was also wondering about this. Then I got to thinking we had to reflash some of the early PSD to get the dash connector to work so I went and looked and it appears it was the 94/95 PSD that I was thinking about. Swap the PCM power relay with another relay & see if it still dies, next time it dies see if the CEL is on.

Thanks for the info. I am told that Sodium Hydroxide/Lye/Caustic Soda/Oven Cleaner/Grill Cleaner does wonders on cleaning carbon but I am too nervous to use it because it will burn your skin and I would want a chemist to tell me what it turns into during and after combustion. I think @ minimum water should be injected somewhere in the process but....?

You happen to know what chemical they used, did they do it @ idle, and was the lower intake also clean?

When ever I think white smoke and low power on a 7.3L the word "gasoline" comes to mind. Farm truck also screams check fuel quality. Make sure PCM does not have a chip hanging on the circuit board. Usually if the V Ref is being pulled low the CEL will not come on during bulb check.

Why is it that after all these years Ford can not seem to make hub caps for E-Series vans that don't break every 50k

The evap leak usually pays better only because it takes less time to diag....now if your talking about running monitors well they both suck. I would personally would rather do any type of diag stuff then the dirty jobs involved in vehicle repair...e.g. oil changes, a filthy 6.4 that decides to fill the exhaust with oil, internal engine repairs, brakes.....

I think it is been long enough that it's safe to say that the fix was to reset/clear the N0x sensor tables. My guess is the moonlighter that put the N0x sensor either did not reset it or his cloned scan tool didn't actually complete the task. This diagnosis was based on the fact that based on the info I was seeing the engine had high N0x levels or for some reason the calculation was off. A 5 gas would have probably sped this up but....

I pretty sure I have gotten mm to standard adapters before. I also seem to remember getting an adapter once that I refushed to use, I don't remember if they sent a different adapter or I used a diffent method.

I installed this so my pc does not decide to update to windows 10 https://www.grc.com/never10.htm

Finally fixed this truck....I thought it was fixed but it came back leaking again. The quick connect fitting adapter was cracked, it was easier to see the crack on my phone(I sometimes forget that trick)Looked almost like a scratch until I pressed around on it.