8WA Sman

Tony was yours useing coolant? So do you think this would show up by closing the valves in both cylinders then adding air or air+smoke and see if it shows up in the paired cylinder?

I was looking for the 9 pin pigtail the other week because someone from a previous repair had broke the connector. I ended up robbing the connector body from a dorman connector that I got for another shop. Well I discovered today that Motorcraft has a pigtail WPT-886 (7U2Z-14S411-AA)

The ECT isn't getting over 225 by any chance?

Watch the waste gate pid. Did you try running it with the ICP disconnected? Also check map sensor for being accurate with regulated shop air. Make sure it has the correct calibration loaded in the PCM. Also if it had a chip hanging on the PCM circuit board check for cracks in the PCB.

Here is a NH3 sensor document from Delphi deer07_wang-1.pdf

Not sure where to post this but I came across this GM RPO code list the other day and thought it might be helpful.GM RPO Codes.pdf

Yes it is new https://www.sevilleclassics.com/rolling_cabinet_drawers_ultra_hd and I'm actually not done putting it together. It's going to go underneath workbench that I'm having made. When I get inside of my shop done I'll probably post some pics. I was able to put up a new shop almost 3 years ago and there's still some small stuff that needs to be finished.

Fred, if I was in your situation every warning signal in my body would be going haywire.

I took the recommendation Chris made but I chose to pruchase the Proto 361 for about $40 less the the Bluepoint one's. I am pretty sure the Bluepoint one's are just reboxed Proto and my Snap-on rep said the tips are not warrantied. That's a brand new snap ring from a hub seal kit.

Block off the PCV system including the fresh air side and put a sensitive vac gauge in the dipstick tube and see if crankcase has vacuum(should have pressure)

With that style engine where the valve cover splits with the intake,check for a vacuum leak from the crankcase side. If you have or can get some fuel trim reading at idle and at 2500,also mass air flow g/s at hot idle no load. You could check your o2 sensor for being biased at idle by adding some type of enrichment into a vacuum hose.

98 F-150 came this week with the symptom being starter will not disengage in any position but Key off and accessory. My first thought was ignition switch. (NPF) Then I was dumb enough to pull the interior fuse box and Gem module even though the first thing I checked was for a windshield leak.(NPF) After I spent way more time then I'm going to admit. I also discovered it would only do it in the park position. TR sensor was shorted between pin 9 (hot in run) and pin 12 ( starter motor relay feed) only in Park position

Doing an EGR cooler clean on a '11 Ram 6.7 I wanted to replace the coolant pipe O-rings Mopar # 68086261-AA $18.00 each, what a rip off. Cummins part # 5266152 $1.55. I wouldn't be afraid to use 6.0 turbo oil drain tube yellow O-rings if I had to. I am also replacing the 2 P/S hoses, the pump to hydro boost line came apart inside and the liner/baffle was jammed into the hydro boost steel line. I am told there is a Star case about this causing a noise.

Thanks Bruce, I did not know that the 90* lip could be removed. So then I went looking for some instructions Speedi Sleeve install.pdf

I did a rear pinion seal on a S110. The yoke had wear so the customer who owns a welding shop had one of his employees install a speedi-sleeve and cut it down. At first glance I thought it was cut off back by the 90 degree return. Then I discovered he did an excellent job, It was hard to tell where the where the sleeve started.

If the terminals need replaced I would recommend a pigtail or wire with the terminal already attached since the list of crimping tools is endless. The connector with the yellow seal is a GT 150 style and it takes a 15359996 for 22-16 GA wire. The other is a merti pack 150 and it takes a different tool, so unless someone works at a GM dealership or has the tools it's probably not worth crimping them on. I have crimped them in the past the best I could then soldered them and never had a problem but I read a document lately that made think about soldering differently. Open the document in the link http://www.osti.gov/scitech/servlets/purl/14961 if you like....not responsible for any lost brain cells

I have more brake jobs lined up then I care. A couple of things I have had real good luck with are AC Delco reman. brake calipers with brackets and Cryo treated rotors http://www.300below.com/. I put a set of Cryo rotors on a F-450 and they ran almost 200 degrees cooler. I have had the Delco caliper last longer then any other reman including Motorcraft, most of them have the gray piston seals, good cooper sealing washers, good slide pin boots and pads clips.

If anyone wants to buy just the connector body here is a pic and the Delphi part #'s. The one on the left with the purple seal is 12065287,old style(7.3) ICP sensor. The one on the right with the yellow seal is the newer style 15477863 This is not where I purchased my connector body from but pigtail,body or connector kit can be also purchased here http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/2219

Doing another 6.4 injector. I have noticed that if I set my DVOM on ohms an injector that has failed electrically will not pulse the meter. I usually check this at PCM connector before I pull the valve cover.

I didn't find it found me I don't remember if it had 10 lug nuts but I don't think so. I know there was 10 rear rotor to hub bolts. This is for a long time customer, I had told them that I didn't want to do any work on this truck that requires it to be hoisted since it weights 11,700. Well the shop that was doing the stuff that required a hoist changed hands, so guess who was dumb enough to say "well if you can't find anyone else I guess I will do it" I have one 12k hoist so I did it on the floor. I really don't think my next hoist will be any bigger since I dislike heavy truck work, I get tried just handling the tools

So that kit will work on a Dana 80 Speedi Sleeve is .829 high, seal surface is .75 of that height. Notice how the sleeve starts right after the taper. On a side note I am putting a pinion seal in a 08' S110 and I ordered the nut(130542) and seal(127591) from Spicer. Ford wanted almost $70.00 just for the nut. I also ordered this seal driver http://www.drivetrainamerica.com/p-14155-217414-eaton-spicer-seal-install-kit.aspx to install the pinion seal, it worked great. The kit came with a 126917(pinion seal installer) and a 128706

Have you tried calling the Ford body builders division. I also noticed https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/topics/hotinfo.html has some Urea tank relocation bulletins but not exactly sure what the kits include.

I am going to try and use 5C3Z 1S175 BA seal kit to repair the seal surface on a Dana 80(606778-12). This axle has the bigger hubs and uses the BRS-110 seals. Ford has a TSB 05-12-4 and so does Dana S110 Spedi Sleeve Bulletin.pdf on repairing a S110 axle with this kit. Has anyone used or know if this kit will work on a Dana 80?

My killer 6.0 came in with a boost leak and a P0299. Turbo was sticking,I could get the boost up to 29 PSI if I wanted. Vanes had some wear, so I replaced the turbo with a non Ford reman(bad idea, more about that later) Both manifolds were leaking so I had them planed and installed gaskets. After I got it back together the over boost was gone but still had a boost leak. I find that the left manifold to up pipe was still leaking, just figured the new bolts I used when I did the manifold gaskets would have taken care of that. Nope it needed a manifold because the flange surface was not true anymore. Get it back together and it was better but I still thought I could hear a boost leak. So I had the customer drive it and he said he thought it sounded normal, ok I must be hearing things. He takes and drives it for a month then calls and says it seems to have low power when towing and some kind of air noise. There is that boost leak, I find the reman turbo leaking around the VGT shaft housing, get the turbo warrantied. I smoke test the warranty turbo before I install it no leaks. I put the truck back together and I still have a boost leak, I find the the plastic CAC tube has a crack in it that probably gets worse when the engine is torqued. Well that was the last leak and now that truck runs fine.

X2 on what Alan posted. I would just use a turbo socket to remove that old bolt. Also you may want to check TSB 03-05-25-007D on sensor rust jacking.