sondogg12

Those otc engine stands are freakin scary mounting 6.4s. The norco engine stands make those job way easier.i also put silcon on outer side of bedplate seal.just a lil insurance.. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif

TSB 03-21-32 HARD START/LONG CRANK - VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AFTERMARKET MODIFICATIONS AND 7.3L DIESEL ENGINE Publication Date: October 7, 2003 FORD: 1997-1999 ECONOLINE Article 98-26-9 is being republished in its entirety as part of a consolidated 7.3L diagnostic aid booklet. ISSUE: Some vehicles equipped with aftermarket modifications may exhibit a crank but no start or a hard start/long crank condition. Some 7.3L Econolines with aftermarket modification to the electrical systems may exhibit "chattering" of the Injector Driver Module (IDM) relay. This may be caused by modifications to the vehicle which may not provide enough electrical current to maintain the function of the IDM relay. ACTION: Run a dedicated power source to Pin 85 of the IDM relay. This action will isolate the IDM relay power circuit from any circuits that may have aftermarket equipment connected to them. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details. SERVICE PROCEDURE Check for 12V at Pin 87, Circuit 876 in Start or Run, and during cranking. If 12V is present in Start, Run, and during cranking, proceed with normal diagnostics. If 12V is not maintained during cranking, proceed to Step 2. Check Powertrain Control Module (PCM) ground wire connection for corrosion or poor contact. Ground in the circuit is G101 on Page 151-10 at location E1 in the 1998 and 1999 Econoline Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM). Ensure proper contact. If concern is not resolved, perform Step 3. Run a 10 gauge wire from the starter motor relay post (Battery +) to the engine compartment fuse box. Install a 30 amp sealed fuse in the 10 gauge wire. Cut the wire that attaches to Pin 85 of the IDM relay (Relay F) in the engine compartment fuse box ensuring that enough wire is left to splice in the new 10 gauge wire from Step 2. The wire to be cut is Circuit 361 (non-electric fuel pump) or Circuit 16 (electric fuel pump). Attach the new 10 gauge wire to Circuit 361 (non-electric fuel pump) or Circuit 16 (electric fuel pump) using solder and heat shrink tubing. Cover the unused end of Circuit 361 or Circuit 16 with heat shrink tubing to prevent shorts. Secure all wiring and test vehicle ensuring that 12V is present at Pin 87, Circuit 876 in Start, Run, and during cranking Somebody performed this tsb due to this issue above.there dedicated 12v supply was building corrosion.i just jumper it to another 12v hot at all times.fixed it. Thanks for your help everyone.

Just dies without warning.doesnt stumble then die.Fuel pressure good and quality good.ill try monday with the idm.

Just dies without warning.doesnt stumble then die.Fuel pressure good and quality good.ill try monday with the idm.

wow.good info guys.Yea the school buses are just rolling in.Yippi.Powers and grounds all good.fuel pressure and quality good.f-series idm okay to swap in e seriees.its a 99

school bus.dies at stop.restarts fine all the time.cmp replaced.only code p1670.what have you guys seen out there.Any known concerns?

well ive done it both ways.i perfer doing it in chassis.ive done about 7 of them,none came back.

hotline told me there are issues with cylinder 2.Im working on my second motor on the same vehicle.Meltdown cylinder 2 both times.putting in a pcm this time.

has anyone seen any 07 lcf on the lot.I wounder if they stop producing the lcf??

Had one where it would sound like small little pops through the intake slightly reving.ended up being camshaft lifter.

maybe overfueling.?

oh yea. the oil leak was coming from the front seal.Seal stickin out a 1/4 in.out of housing.probley pushed out by all that crankcase pressure... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif

got one in for oil leaks and runs rough.had codes for cylinder 2 cont. and missfire #2. had koeo for glowplug #2.powerbalance #2 droping.relative compression down some on cylinder 2 and 7,which #7 prob caused by readings of #2 since its next in the firing order.sft cylinder 2 at 25.pulled out glowplug and found tip melted.I just figured injector overfueled and washed cylinders down some.I was hoping after installing new injector theyll pick back up.It didn't.Did manual compression test,cylinder 2 150psi. inspected valve train,nothing broken.Removed cab for first time.Not that bad,made it pretty simple.removed turbocharger and removed bank 2 cylinder head.Found piston melted.Melted a hole in the piston.There sending me a complete,since threre are no short or long blocks available yet.

yea,they told me the pipe starts to melt at 315 degrees.It wouldn't let me go much pass 282 degees.just kept downing the power.maybe if he was pulling trailer...

got a truck today.lack of power.would not go over 35 mph load.no codes found.road test up steep grade.notice fan clutch on early but ect-192.started to loose power.would not go over 36mph.monitor eot-282 degees.pcm cutting back power.never seen it before.something new /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif

Do you have to detorqe cylinder heads before unbolting bedplate? Can the block crack if heads are not removed? if you have to remove heads i dont understand how warranty only pays 2.9hrs to do bedplate seals but a short block pays 8.5hrs.and you cant use both labor ops..Can someone make this clear for me..

bring my camera on monday..

yea theres no play in high pressure turbo turbine wheel.what im woundering is why theres only oil in the right exhuast manifold and not the left exhaust manifold.theres also a small puddle of oil in the low pressure turbo collector exhaust side.

Well one of the guys i work with 2 weeks ago got 6.4 crank no start.Not enough high pressure fuel.no leaks.crankcase isn't filled up.hotline and engineer at international advised to replace high pressure pump.2 weeks later we get the pump.cab goes up, im sure after doing it 2nd or 3rd time it will get quicker.A whole lot of disconnecting..after getting cab up.and unbolting exhaust pipes we see a big problem.after removing exhaust pipe from right manifold oil pours out.nothing comes out of left side manifold.thats where he stoped.any ideas...motor never hydrolocked.

just remove your egr valve and see if any moisture indicating failed egr cooler.

what do you clean maf and iat with? I did have a couple aftermarket air box cause a po401. I just installed some exhaust manifold gaskets yesterday.It was the only thing i could find wrong with truck.

For 03 and early 04 with latest calibrations ive been dealing with more and more po401,insificant egr flow.For me most of the time ill find a IAT gooey,or cooler pluged. What has been the fix for you guys out there??

ive done heads in a vehicle twice. What i found out that if you tilt the front of the cab up you will get the clearance you'll need to get to the corner head bolt at the firewall. you all need to that out evaporator box for right bank. its not that bad but id rather lift the cab up any day.

is the panasonic toughbook and the dell d610 the only notebooks that are compatible with vcm??

Anyone have any tips or a special tool that they made to pull out the Y stand pipe out the back of the block without pulling heads?