Marc

I was looking for the turbo charging specs, couldn't find number. What is the max boost spec for this 99? Thanks for the help. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif

FYI, I found the leak at #3 injector. Couldn't lift the cab for this one (too much extra stuff in the cab of the truck) so I have to remove the left motor mount. What a pain!!!!

Like the article. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif For this being my first time, it gave me a really good idea on what this system looks like /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif . The thing I don't understand is why did they make this HP oil system with so many connections for possible leaks /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/confused.gif ?

Lifting the body sound much better /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif ?

I have a 05 e350 6.0 with no(I mean 0 psi) ICP pressure. Same thing, stall, crank, no start. I have done the air pressure check and I feel/hear the leak on the right side where the push rods are for number 7 cylinder. I have checked the IPR(tried a new one thinking that when I acuated it, it would make some thunk noise or something during the air leak test but it was the same /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif ), O-rings at the HPOP and the quick connect...all good. I was also thinking that the stand pipe on the right side is cracked. I am a 6.0 virgin /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif It sound like we have to do the same repair. How do you remove the stand pipe? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/confused.gif I can't find it in the book. Is it like Marc said, remove the oil tube over the injectors, then remove the hold down bolt for it? Also, is a fact that I have to remove the right side motor mount to remove the valve cover?

Why not! Gm went to the land of the rising sun why can ford:)

I was thinking that too that the test is "relative" but it's a quick way just to see if there is a difference in any of the cylinders, if all of them are bad then I get nothing out of it. I need to get the adaptor so I can do a real compression test.

I checked the turbo fins and they look BAD /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/eek.gif Rounded off and it looks like the fins starting to bend out. I tried to remove the superchips software but it gave a truck mismatch. I think it was because I reflashed the pcm but I am not sure. I truly think that this is a base engine problem. The customer is havinig a hard time understanding this. He still thinks that it should run bad also if it was a base engine problem and this is some kind of ground problem. We'll try another starter and I will do a relative compression test with my laptop using IDS for the 1st time /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif I think I might find something there.

I was thinking that I have to get a ratchet and turn the motor over to see what it feels like. I would like to try another pcm but I cant get my hands on one with out having it sit on the shelf if it doesn't fix it. We'll see what tomorrow brings.....

Ok, tried to remove the superchips software, it wouldn't let me(could be cause I reflashed it before when I had a p0605 code). It programmer says to call superchips error code 9. I have noticed I keep getting a p0603 code in memory. I have removed the drive belt, still slow crank. I have tested the batteries, no bad cells, they are good both with 850amp cranking power. Each one goes down to about 10.9-11.5v while cranking(only 115 rpm still). I have removed the filter charger and still slow crank speed. I noticed that the fins on the inlet side of the turbo are rounding off /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif . The turbo is not in good shape but still that wouldn't choke the air some much that it would have a slow crank. I know that he had a trans overhaul last year before winter. Could there be something there? I guess there is not enough clearance to just remove the converter nuts, push the converter back then crank it over or take the HP oil pump out and crank it over.....I don't know /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/confused.gif Everything that I am looking at now seems to be a stretch. What base engine problem could cause this load while cranking?

I am going over to the customers house on monday morning to take the truck to the shop. The chip software will get removed on monday for sure /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif I will try to just remove the drive belt and crank it over. That's a good idea. I will monitor the coolant level (I did install 2 block heaters in it and the freeze point was -36C) and the batteries are brand spanking new but I will test them on monday. I still think about a base engine problem but less compression would make it crank faster so /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/confused.gif but it runs good when you drive it (after I replaced 2 injectors). I still think that it's a little noisier than normal though /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif

I really like the pds but you have to be very carefull in a shop environment. IDS is going to be worse. You'll have to be very carefull with it. I liked WDS. You could beat on it and it would come back for more :-)

Got a f250 crew cab in the shop with a slow crank. The owner said that when it's above freezing the truck started fine but under 32F he has to jump start it and then it runs rough until it's hot. I got cylinder balance codes for #1 and #7 cylinders. I replaced those injectors and the miss fire/rough idle was gone. I had good ICP pressure (550psi at idle and built up 2300psi cranking really fast) But the slow crank is the thing that killed me. The stroy goes like this. Customer bought the truck last summer and it's from florida but now it's here in Sweden. He has never had to start this truck in the cold until now. I have only 115rpm and that only lastes for about 10 seconds then it's dead. I have tested the batteries and they were bad so I put new ones in(ac delco's 850 cca at 0F). Same problem, max cranking speed 115rpm this time for 30 seconds so before I started losing speed then I put a starter in it, thinking that it's drawing too much amps out of the batteries,(we don't have a amp meter at the shop so I couldn't see how many amps the starter was drawing and the customer had a new one with him) Same problem. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif So now thinking that the cables were bad (the termanals were corroded and would never get fully tightend to the poles) replaced those, SAME THING!!!!! Slow crank! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/mad.gif I feel like a total shot gunner here. I can't understand why its still has a slow crank. Specs are about 150-250 rpm cranking speed. He is using 15W/40 (condition is ok) but that should work at these temps. I see that someone has been in the motor(different/missing bolts everywhere and the lift hook was bent). I was thinking of some type of base engine problem. This has a superchip software and a K&N filter charger on it. When I drive the truck, it doesn't sound right to me. Abnomally loud and you can here the turbo spooling like crazy. This thing is a POS but I still need help figuring out what went wrong here. Thanks /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif

I have had a 01 7.3 with this p0603 comming back after being cleared too. It had superchips software installed in it. It was in the shop for hard start/long crank and slow crank. Trying to daig. the drivability problems I got a p0605. So I reflashed the PCM like the PPT said and it took away the p0605 but the p0603 still comes back. I thought by reflashing the PCM, the superchip software would go away. I am not sure if it's still there but I am thinking that it is because of the KAM code keeps comming back. I don't too much about chips but everyone I have seen, it's just problems.