Joey Kaylor

its kinda a bitch to get to the bolts, but i have an extension that is about 2 1/2 feet long that i stick through from the front and it gets it perfectly on them POS's but its usually the control wire corroded that is the problem.

i have never seen one, but i have used a fuel line release tool with the master off the truck before. i tend to get creative when one of my guys fucks up a perfectly good part due to stupidity /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif

I had been using the NAPA one that Bruce recommends, but found out our local Cat dealer is doing them in house now. they charge me 10 bucks for the kit, and are less than an hour away. if they get the sample by 10am, i get results at 4pm /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

either a press, bruces method, or a BFPH. that would be a big frikking plastic hammer lol. it being a 97 my bet would be on an aftermarket water pump causing the plastic crap.

how bout they teach the basics and show the techs how it works, so they can use that piece of gray matter in their skulls for something more than an alcohol sponge? pinpoint tests are fucking useless in my personal opinion. i have worked with so many tards that believe soley in what they read or see in a PPT that they overlook the basics, missing the problem! i guess common sense and deductive reasoning strategy are not traits most people have anymore?

they have inertia switches? i wasnt aware of Ford installing them on the diesel trucks. edit: sombitch they did put one on. i would assume it would illuminate a message though?

they lived, minor scratches. the driver had no seat belt on and was able to slide across the seat when the cab came down. it was in Texas, so i am sure he got pissed off that it spilled his beer also lol. PS....technically it would be a camper nightmare. RV's gots engines, campers get pulled. useless info, but what can i say, i am full of it today.

so....ring or turbo? cause i got a feeling this will be me repairing it, unless they will do it at the local dealer under warr. they could not get the charge cooler in under warranty unless we left them the truck for two weeks, and that was not an option for downtime. ditto on the turbo cleaning. they say they are on a 3 week backlog now, with about 10 cars sitting on their lot as i rode by last night.

i got this weird sombitch coming in later this week, and want to get a little insight on it. truck info: 2005 F450, 6.0 auto4x4. truck has 3600 miles on it (is our counties crash truck, ran on call a few times a month, but i make sure it is driven hard weekly to keep the carbon down). this is the same truck that split a charge cooler at 1800 miles due to overboost, and after it went to the dealer four times with no fault found, i pulled the turbo and cleaned the vanes which were stuck hard with carbon. since then, it has not had any overboost issues. the last two calls i worked it on (vol. firefighter, there are four of us in the county that can extricate, and only one of them is on the rescue squad.) the driver said that on the way back from the call, it would have a knocking sound that sounded like something smacking the truck. i drove it back from a rollover yesterday, and sure as shit, it was doing the noise he was saying. it did it five times, and then stopped. when you accelerate, and then snap out of the throttle, you will hear a BAD compressor surge noise. you know when it will do it cause when you accelerate, it whines like its in full boost about to blow up, even in a part throttle low load situation. but the rest of the time it is not whining as loud, even in a WOT WFO situation. i got a feeling the ring is sticking again, but want to verify to see if anyone else has seen this happen. i didnt have my IDS with me yesterday when driving it back from the call, so i didnt watch PIDs or anything, but will do that when i get the truck.

pop the throttle body off, and clean out the passage. it will be completely carboned shut. but, its an easy channel to clean out.

no, i am going to find you and attack your puppies. of course man, i am very fluent in internet shit talking /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

you want to see ghetto?

there is a puller that works well, but its about 1500 bucks. i have found that keeping cans of spray anti-seize handy works well for going back together keeping them from doing it, but you still have to pull the wheels to do that. big ass air hammer, and a violent tech with a sledge on the backside /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

i figured i would put up an update to this truck. i advised the customer that since it was over on time for the 3/36k warr, they would likely give him a hard time on replacing the PCM for a 4wd inop issue. even though the PCM is considered an emissions component and covered under the federal 8yr/80k warranty, i had a feeling that they would say it was something i did when changing the solenoid. of course, i was right. cust. brought vehicle to dealer, they had for two days. said incorrect IWE solenoid was installed, and a new solenoid fixed it. the funny thing is i had their parts dept get me the solenoid, and it was the same PN that they installed and charged the customer for. two days later, i get called from a PISSED customer telling me his truck is stuck, and to get it out. bring it to the shop, the hubs aint engaging. verified power to the solenoid again, verified no switching ground. i said to hell with it and ordered a PCM. after the normal clusterfuck of trying to find a second key from them to program the PATS system, i made another one. truck works perfectly now. driver was blown in the PCM. now, i get to try to get paid for this 500 dollar PCM that i installed. i dont even care about the labor, just want to be reimbursed for the part. i do not understand why they feel the need to do anything in their power to say that the independent didnt fix it right.

i am still trying to figure out who my employee named Everett is. you know .....Everett Sinchu? everett sinchu worked on my car last....

yes, the PID changes when commanded. the weird thing is, most of the time when there is a water contaminated solenoid, the 4hi light will not come on. this one does. it will go to all positions, and everything is changing state like it should, aside from there not being any command on the IWE solenoid. i can manually command it with a power probe, and it works fine. its like there is a dead driver in the PCM from what i can see. when it was in the other day, i spent about an hour doing diag to confirm my diagnosis, and it will be back in later next week for a service, so i will double check it again before sending it to the dealer for a PCM. of course, they will likely throw a couple of other parts at it first before confirming my diagnosis, as i have had experience with in the past. hopefully, they will agree and fix it.

the solenoid will not energize by the PCM when commanded by IDS. i can apply a ground, and the solenoid will energize and actuate the hubs. the circuit is solid from the solenoid to the PCM, but unless there is some protection strategy that i am not aware of, it looks like its got a fried PCM.

i had this 04 F150 in today that was kicking my balls. pulled it in, had the 4wd inop complaint. verified hubs not engaging, saw the old style solenoid, and ordered a replacement unit from Motorcraft. checked, and i pulled a C1980 out of it. ran a quick test to verify that i had 12v on one terminal, and popped a new solenoid on. when i tried to clear the code, it was still in the PCM. i didnt think much about it, but when i was testing it out, the damn thing still didnt work. pulled it back in, did a loaded test on the control circuit, and found it to be flowing current well. this appears to be a rather simple circuit according to the WSM, and the only thing else i can see is a burned out driver in the PCM. or am i missing something? our local dealer refuses to acknowledge any of my diagnostics, and will usually throw several parts at a problem if i send it up for warr. repair before fixing it correctly. this truck has 34k on the clock, but is out of warr. by time (a year i think). but, if its a burned out driver in the PCM, its technically covered by the 8/80k warr on emissions devices, if i am seeing it correctly.

just find your local battery distributor. i get blems off the truck for this purpose (and to go in my tractors, but thats cause i am cheap) the last 8D i bought was 35 bucks. a trickle charger was 25, and a 40 dollar inverter was all it took.

i will attest from first hand experience that the 6.0 on a stand is one heavy bitch. and it is like driving a 4ws vehicle, it goes where it wants to! did you put those injectors on baking pans!?

i have a MAC roll around with all my diag equipment in it. has my scope, Tech II, IDS, DRB III, StarMobile, Mentor, and VAG cables. in addition to that, there is quite a bit of meters, leads, and such in it also. there is a 8D deepcycle marine battery on the bottom, wired to an inverter. i have a trickle charger wired up also for night charging twice a week. that battery will run the inverter on full tilt for two full days of work. just dont knock that bastard over. goddamn its heavy to pick back up!

i was talking to Rusty about that the other night at dinner. the general consensus with all of us at the rib joint was that IATN is having some serious issues with lack of competent techs, but we do a decent job of policing it ourselves. i avoid techmail like the plague, and unsubscribed to it to free up my inbox.there are many DAMN good techs on iATN, you just have to look for them. once you see them, you will be forever grateful to be associated with them. Eric, the long haired dude with shaggy beard that was sitting at the table with the Pico scope dudes, is one of the smartest techs i have met in a long dime. we had some serious indepth conversations over large quantities of beer that night!

my flashlight will kick any 110v lights ass. its about 135 bucks, but WELL worth it. works very well in daylight. i buy my dye in a 32oz container, and usually had 5oz or so to a powersmoke to find a leak.