kevin phillips

I had one last week hairline crack at webbing to fuel filter portion.

off to charlotte in march

Fitting pulled out without using tool,thanks for the help,and i have no idea how it started and had no issues with the fitting that loose other than the noise.This vehicle did it mostly on decel also as jeff said his did.good to go now

Thanks guys,I do think that is whats happening.It does require some driving before it starts making the noise.gonna tear it down and see what the fitting looks like.The noise with the chassis ear attached seems to be coming from that area.

I remember a post on a noise concern from the stc fitting allowing branch tube to rub rear engine cover can't locate it.I have a 05 f-250 with a noise after hard accell and sometimes while pulling uphill coming from cover area for the pump kinda sounds like a creaking noise like a dry bushing but not always there.Any suggestions or anybody seen this from a branch tube rubbing cover.vehicle starts and runs ok with no issues other than the noise.thanks for any advice.

replaced front cover and replaced thermostats also per hotline, rubber damaged on bottom of thermostats.road test ok no overheat thanks for the help

Cavitation in front cover behind water pump.Got a cover on order,thanks for the help guys.i'll update when i get it put back together but my guess is it will fix it.thanks again

Guage shows overheat,ids on ect shows overheat,fan does run on high speed by sound of fan during overheat.not sure on refill procedure radiator installed at another dealer but wouldn't air have worked it's way out of the system by now ? i have not removed thermostats or water pump to inspect.It looks like more airflow across the radiator at 70mph would make it hard to overheat and why will it not do it below that speed just puzzles me.thanks for the advice guys will update when i check some more tommorow.

It had a radiator installed about 6 month's ago.i will check fan with ids monday and make sure it has all speeds and seems to be pulling enough air,thanks guys

Got a 08 6.4 that overheats at 70mph everytime after about a 20 mile trip.At 65mph it will not overheat or driving at lower speeds it will not have a issue.Anybody ran into this before? I've checked the radiator for restriction,coolant is full,no add ons on front end.Thanks for any ideas

front one way clutch and overhaul kit fixed it thanks guys for the help

I'll look him up,thanks

Removed trans found front one way clutch plastic cage broken and clutch not working,cage jammed sideways not allowing movement either direction.Pulled apart all the clutch packs air check and look ok.No other hard parts looked damaged.Will the one way failure cause the issues i have?I'm not much on these automatics. looking for some expert advice.thanks guys

web page won't come up for me either,i tried

Even worse,It's my own vehicle jim.I have rebuilt a few c4's and a c6 but i know these are a diffront beast.I'll check the pressures and do some looking at that nice powerflow you linked.I do want to have a good idea of where to go before i jump in and i do have a unit with some good parts that i switched out of it about two years ago.New ones are high and i'm just foolish enough to try and repair it if it's not gonna be terrible.With the fluid clean and no junk in the pan and manual 1st and 2nd operational it eliminates alot of hard parts.I'll update with my findings next week.Tranny came from a wrecked unit and now should be pushing 100,000 miles

it seems to hold back in first when you let out after accelerating.

4.0 sohc,the vehicle engauges reverse but is slipping or not fully engauging it will move but not strong in reverse

I have a 1998 explorer 4wd with a trans concern that i could use some good advice on.I don't normally do trans problems and this is a vehicle of mine that i am having trouble with.It started out just going into neutral at times while driving.bringing the vehicle to a stop and putting the vehicle into park and back to drive would make the problem disappear for a few days.The vehicle now will try to pull in reverse and in overdrive gear selector positions but seems to be slipping or not engauging good.The vehicle pulls normally in manual 1st and can be shifted while moving into man 2nd and seems to pull normally.I dropped the valve body and replaced the seperator plate and gaskets and installed the updated epc pressure relief valve that was reccomended in the tsb for the seperator plate gasket blowing but my gasket seemed ok.I have looked at the band/clutch application chart and most of the clutches and bands have to work to allow man 1st and 2nd .Anybody got any advice on what to check or anyone seen this issue before? Our trans guy quit a few weeks ago and the new guy isn't much.Sorry for the long post and thanks for any advice on where to go on this one.Could it be a electrical concern and not have any codes or tcil illuminated?

thanks keith i reattached it,still screwing up setting cmp codes think i'm gonna yank it and see how much rust is there where the sensor mounts.

Anybody know what the ground is for on rear drivers intake manifold stud?I have one with some crazy starting issues at times and found the ground not connected and was wondering what issues could be caused by it.Is it a ficm ground?thanks guys i haven't been able to found any references to it in the shop manual.

larry,sorry to hear about your loss,if you need anything let us know

fiqured the harness was high for the engine and my helper crushed this one with the compressor somehow so we are eating it thirty dollars for the pigtail.

Thanks guys for the help, got it ordered.My parts guy was getting frustrated.

I've been looking for a few hours for the part number for a 2003 f-550 6.0 crank sensor pigtail with no luck.Any ideas?Thanks guys

Customer came and got vehicle to let someone else try it.I have no idea where it was at but the vmv would not work.The canister purge selonoid worked when tested.I may have been going down the wrong path but the the book lists a canister purge valve and a canister purge selonoid.The valve that connects to manifold vacuum and the evap system system up front was the one inop electrically.The vehicle was involved in a wreck a few months back and i believe they had some explorer harnesses on a sport track which were diffront and causing a issue due to diffront wiring between the two.Thanks for the help guys