kevin phillips

I have tried to operate both the evap vapor management valve and the canister purge valve with the ids. The canister purge valve at the rear of vehicle works fine and is operational.The vapor management valve at the front of the vehicle under battery tray however is not working when commanded with ids.There is a # symbol and the system allows me to change the percentage up to 100% .Fuel tank pressure does not change during evap ids test so it fails the test.I used a fog light bulb to test the wiring.I removed the evap hose to the fuel tank from vmv and commanded on the vmv and no vacuum was present there thus no change in ftp.Thanks

I have a sport track giving me a fit.Checked out vehicle ran evap test found vapor management valve not working.Checked power and ground to valve ok with valve disconnected.Vehicle has no ground on vapor management valve with circuit loaded.disconnected pcm and valve and load tested both the power and ground circuits check ok.load tested powers and grounds to pcm check ok.Replaced pcm,still same issue loss of ground when loaded.Any ideas or suggestions? on where to go from here. The pcm is new and the wiring has been checked and double checked on those circuits above.Could this be a issue on another system causing the ground to drop from pcm?I'm lost from here.thanks for any suggestions

A old man that worked at the dealer when i started always made me take the gem modules, ect ... apart years ago looking for signs of damage and now I take alot of covers off of modules just out of habit i guess when things seem unusual or I suspect a module.I seldom see a pcm fail with ford but i have seen a few.

A used pcm fixed it.Opened up pcm cover and pcm showed traces of water intrusion.I have no idea what circuit was causing it inside.Thanks guys for the help and ideas.

Found a used pcm in georgia,I will update when it gets here.

The throttle pids are indicating closed throttle and the spring tension seems correct on the pedal.Unplugging the icp does not have a effect on the idle speed.Unplugging the ipr will stall the engine and it has been switched out.The vehicle has no mats in it to hang the pedal and the high idle is constant from startup just like it is set to idle that fast on a rpm controller but it dosen't have one.If the icp was acting up and causing the high idle wouldn't unplugging it change it if it was bias.I have unplugged the tps and ivs and started it and it still idles the same.Everyone i have ever seen will only idle with the tps or ivs unplugged but not this one.Unplugged the alternator to make sure it wasen't sending any ac voltage out.I'm wondering about maybe a pcm issue.Any more ideas?

It fixed the stalling also and it's gone out of my hair. thanks guys

I've got a 1997 f-250 with a idle of about 1400 all the time and no dtc's.Checked the throttle pedal for binding,Checked for overfull of fuel in oil no concerns found on either.I switched out the ipr valve and it diddn't help.Unplugged the icp,no change in rpm.Removed pcm and checked for a chip in rear of pcm diddn't have a piggyback style chip but may be programmed.koeo icp voltage .21 volts koeo,ivs says idle on datalogger.app voltage shows .52 volts while running and ipr shows 10.54% while running and icp voltage running is 1.13 volts.Any ideas of anything else to check guys.Thanks for any help,been a rough week so far.I've got 2 6.4's with misses and knocks and the heads off one and now this.It's gotta get better from here.

A new ficm fixed it and stopped the voltage from arcing from it.

I have contacted the hotline and they said they have no reports of it and to ignore if it dosen't seem to be the stalling problem. I have ran several with the ficm unbolted and haven't ever seen one do this before. That voltage might be dc and i'm not risking it.

The ficm is 10 days out so i'll update when it comes in. The voltage jumping from it looks like a coil pack with the wire off.I have been all over wiggling the harness and cannot find a problem with it but it acts just like a wiring short.I'm kinda scared to mess much with it till i replace the ficm,it's quite a bit of voltage arcing around.Another thing i noticed to is the battery light in the cluster flickers when it's arcing to.

I have a 2007 f-350 6.0 liter with a stalling concern and restarts fine.No dtc's,removed and replaced stc fitting,no help. Checkout wiring to ficm and while checking noticed sparks coming from ficm and arcing to ficm studs with ficm unbolted.Is this a sign of a short inside to the ficm case? I have never noticed this before while testing and seems to happen when it stalls or while the engine is being cranked.Any ideas? input? thanks guys for the help.

Yes it's still draining out of the reservoir and if you fill the reservoir up it will start and not die.Oil pressure takes to long to build on port in top of housing and in block.I'm going to yank it and tear it down.I tried another one in the shop and it had pressure within 2 seconds.It's got to be a lube pressure problem still.I'LL update when i find it,thanks for the ideas.

I've been using some brass adaptors i found at a parts house and testing where the oil sending unit goes and using a manifold guage bar.

Test drove to lunch,oil pressure was fluctuating between 18 and 22psi hot idle.Vehicle has 10w30 motorcraft diesel oil and new oem filter which the spec looks to be the same for the ford engine per shop manual 10 psi min hot idle.

The pressure guage didd't move for about 15 seconds then slowly climbed to about 25 psi then the engine started up and was runnning rough like after a injector replacement or system repair.Oil pressure did climb with engine rpm up to around 32psi at 2500 rpm.

Installed new H-P pump,still have concern,inspected and replaced oil resivoir gasket,no help.I have no idea where to go now. It started this morning and ran about three seconds and stalled,resivoir was empty after stall.Any other things you guys have seen or can think of? I think i may start back drinking again.I looked for oil in the fuel housing and fuel is clean with no signs of oil.It has to be leaking somewhere or not picking up the oil correctly.Im about ready to yank it,the pan has fresh looking gray permatex on the sides.Could a stopped up pickup be the culprit?Thanks for any ideas.

He ordered one from a rebuilder in florida.I hope that it ends up being a good one.We will see next week

Customer diddn't like the price from ford so i guess i'll be putting in a ebay unit in a few days.wish me luck

I had to replace a set of injectors once because of a lid that was not tight and the customer drove around a few days and wiped them out.I always pull the filters anytime pressure is not up to spec first thing and have found ten or so not fully seated by the customer.

Thanks alot bruce for the good info.I have to ok with the customer and i'll update.Time for the weekly ass chewing over the warr repairs and some kind of new things we got phased into yesterday.

Seven hundred dollars ouch.I seen in the pced where it said it had a check valve internal to the pump.Is this a common problem?

I have a 2002 f-350 in the shop with a long crank time of about 15 seconds before starting.Checkout glow plugs and relay which tested ok.Checked pid data found icp voltage not increasing during first 10 seconds or so of crank time.Checked oil resevoir and found it was low and about empty.Removed low pressure oil pump behind damper and replaced.The oil pump had excessive clearance between the gears but the front cover looked ok.Reassembled and still have the same concern of a empty resovoir if vehicle sits overnight or for a few hours.Removed ipr valve and inspected o-rings and they checked ok.The vehicle has no issues when running and is performing ok untill the next time to crank up if it's sit awhile.Any ideas?I thought maybe about a high pressure pump concern or ipr concern but wouldn't that cause issues once the vehicle is running?thanks for any ideas or helful test info.The pced is leading me in circles.

Might be a dummy rail plug o-ring or stc fitting.I think i would pressure check it and see what it shows if anything.

Usually, ford parts are good from my experience but there's always the parts that get returned and put back on the shelf.I think i've learned my lesson on this one and added a few more grey hairs in the process.I don't like to give up on anything if all possible.