Brad Clayton

Trap? What is this some kind of cult or something?

Amen to that brother. All of us guys up here in the North and the salt regions would consider it a vacation to work on stuff down there.

Quote: Good ones are getting harder to find. What are you talkin about, it only takes our new parts guy 5 minutes to pull an oil filter.

Quote: And thank you guys for the quick help!!! I am going to have to visit this site more often.

Did it look similar to this? Nuff to make you sick.

How many of you guys are clearing the fuel injector adaptive tables after injector replacement?

Had a tow truck one time which would overheat quickly on a hard run. Ended up being an oil cooler. Used a temp gun to help pinpoint. Removed the cooler and the bundle only had two tubes that could flow coolant, and there is a bunch in there.

Yeah, you make a good point there.

I have had cracked injector cups over pressurize the cooling system.

Did my first one today. I've done injectors on these here and there in the past, so no biggy. But scratch another one off the list. This one got all the even ones. Beat the time listed by just a smidge.

Interesting. What led you to cracking the PCM open? Shot in the dark? Thinking outside the box, crap shoot? Just curious.

Quote: I would drill it into the guys about caring for the lines It's funny how things play out in the daily journey of life. I was working at the mountain today and I was standing about 2 feet away from a line with 4000 psi running thru it that holds the brakes open on the lift. I decided to look a little closer and the line was actually starting to chaffe pretty bad on the frame of the hydralic unit. 'Nuff said there. I also was wanting to get a book on hydralics and guess what? Now I have a good source to go to. Sorry to wander extremely far from the topic! edit for sp.

Quote: Quote: Quote: "Crack that injector line open and see if the fuel knock goes away!" You are joking right? sarcasm is lost on the interwebs.

That IS one bad 6.0!

It's simple, involves a prybar inserted into the left lifting bracket putting pressure on the tube and a plastic dead blow gently "bumping" the cac hose from the side to coax into place. Easiest and most painless way to keep your sanity. And no cac hoses are hurt in the procedure.

Here's a taste of what I was dealing with.

I have replaced many a leaking fuel injectors on IDI's that were originally misdiagnosed by someone else as a rod knock.

I shudder to think what will happen once these engines get into the hands of the majority of the independants.

Antifreeze ain't too bad cause water washes the bad away. Trans fluid on the other hand is a bitch. Speedy dry ain't an option in our shop, so we use the absorbant pads and engine degreaser.

I "chuckled" when I read it, Aaron.

I consider it a back saver. I can do them both ways. If the cab has 200 hydralic hoses running into as in a town truck or something is over the cab, then sure I'll do it in chassis. But at the end of the day I have really got my ass kicked. Some people pull the front end so they can stand up and do the job. I can have the cab off as quick as that and it's cake after that. Been pulling cabs since '97 with the advent of the redesigned F-150. I like to make things easy on myself and if it requires doing something a little diferent them I'm for it no matter what kinda critisism ensuses. By the way I have lost count on how many heads and head gasket I have done on 6.9's and 7.3 IDI's. And they were all done in chassis. People tend to forget the problems that the older diesels exhibited when they are bashing the newer ones. The 7.3l DI wasn't perfect by any means either.

My only hang up with that was I have seen the same leaks on later models and they still run like champs. Now I know though.

Well, I got a praise report for ya. This one is fixed and one for my memory banks. I removed both exhaust manifolds and the left one was warped enough to pop the rear bolt and leave the rest buried in the head. Used a left hand drill bit and got lucky and got the rest of the bolt out. Ended up putting two new manfolds on it along with gaskets and all new hardware including ebp tube. Removed turbo and y-pipe and egr pipe. The gasket between the two pipes was completely split and the bellows for each pipe has some leaks going on. Replaced these units and disassembled turbo and checked unison ring and vanes. These were ok so I put it back together and reoriented the clamp so it looked better. Reassembled truck and warmed up and allowed to perform a vgt relearn. Drove with ids and got a whopping 25 pounds of boost out of this tired ol girl. I must say I was impressed. While trying to figure this thing out, I removed the aftermarket oil filter to see if it was collapsed or something stupid. It looked ok so I put it back in. After all was said and done this morning and she was idling in my bay, coworker comes over to me at the parts counter and says "you got oil gushing out of the bottom of that truck". Although it was not bad enough in his mind to shut it off! So I run over and shut er down. It seems the filter o-ring let go. Now I get to relift the truck and change the oil and convert it back to Motorcraft parts. Then I get to degrease the whole thing and wash my floor to boot. Ahh I feel a weight has been lifted off my shoulders.

There should have been a note with all those parts, it basically states the length variances are ok and to use the new 10mm style tube.