Brad Clayton

Just when you think they have figured out how to build a 6.0l, they come out with this. Jeeez! Quote: Printable View (126 KB) TSB 08-8-3 6.0L VEHICLES BUILT 11/1/2007 - 1/15/2008 - RUNS ROUGH, MISS, STUMBLE/FLUTTER BETWEEN 1500-4000 RPM - BROKEN CRANKCASE-TO-HEAD TUBES Publication Date: April 4, 2008 FORD: 2008 E-350, E-450 ISSUE: Some 2008 E-Series 6.0L vehicles built from 11/1/2007 through 1/15/2008 may exhibit an engine condition of runs rough, miss, stumble or flutter between 1500 to 4000 RPM due to broken crankcase-to-head tubes. ACTION: Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition. SERVICE PROCEDURE Verify Condition With the engine at normal operating temperature, idle engine for 5 minutes. Increase RPM slowly until wide-open-throttle is reached, release throttle and let the engine return to idle. Check for any engine miss, stumble or flutter while holding engine RPM between 1500 and 4000 RPM. If any miss, stumble or flutter is verified using the above procedure, replace both crankcase-to-head (Stand Pipes) tubes using the procedure below. Crankcase To Cylinder Head Tubes (Stand Pipes) Replacement Remove right hand (RH) and left hand (LH) valve covers. Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 303-01C. Loosen the RH crankcase-to-head tube. (Figure 1) Figure 1 - Article 08-8-3 Position the crankcase-to-head tube, separate the tube and allow the lower section to go back down. (Figure 2) Figure 2 - Article 08-8-3 NOTE: DO NOT REMOVE THE OIL RAIL END PLUGS OR ACOUSTIC WAVE ATTENUATOR PORT FITTING. SERVICE PARTS ARE NOT AVAILABLE TO SUPPORT THESE COMPONENTS. Remove the bolts and the RH high-pressure oil rail. (Figure 3) Figure 3 - Article 08-8-3 NOTE: USE A SHOP TOWEL AND METAL BRAKE PARTS CLEANER TO REMOVE THE OIL RESIDUE PRIOR TO REMOVING THE CRANKCASE-TO-HEAD TUBE USING THE SPECIAL TOOL 303-1164. NOTE: IF THE STAND PIPE IS BROKEN THE SPECIAL TOOL WILL NOT WORK. THE LOWER SECTION OF THE STAND PIPE WILL HAVE TO BE REMOVED USING CHANNEL LOCKS OR EQUIVALENT. Remove the lower crankcase to head tube. NOTE: APPLY CLEAN ENGINE OIL TO THE CRANKCASE TO HEAD TUBE D-RING SEALS, PRIOR TO INSTALLING. Separate the new crankcase to head tube and position the lower section of the crankcase to head tube in the engine CAUTION: USING THE BOLTS TO PUSH THE HIGH PRESSURE OIL RAIL INTO THE FUEL INJECTORS CAN DAMAGE THE FUEL INJECTORS AND HIGH PRESSURE OIL RAIL(S). Position the high-pressure oil rail(s) on the injectors. Place the high-pressure oil rail(s) on top of the carrier so that the four (4) single ball tubes are engaging the fuel injector lead angle. Insert three (3) guide bolts, two (2) on the ends of the straight side of the high-pressure oil rail and one (1) in the middle of the wavy side of the high-pressure rail. Install the guide studs 6 to 7 turns. Manually press the high-pressure oil rail into the fuel injectors. Inspect that the high-pressure oil rail mounting feet are flat against the mounting surface. Loosely install the six (6) bolts. (Figure 3) Remove the three (3) guide bolts, install the remaining bolts and tighten the nine (9) bolts in the sequence shown. Tighten to 10 lb-ft (13 N-m). (Figure 4) Figure 4 - Article 08-8-3 Apply clean engine oil and reassemble the crankcase-to-head tube. Install the upper crankcase-to-head tube. Tighten to 60 lb-ft (82 N-m). Repeat the crankcase to cylinder head tube procedure on the left bank of the engine. Install RH and LH Valve Covers Refer to WSM, Section 303-01C. PART NUMBER PART NAME 5C3Z-9A332-A Tube - Fuel Supply WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage IMPORTANT: Warranty coverage limits/policies are not altered by a TSB. Warranty coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part. OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME 080803A 2008 Econoline 350/450 6.0L Built From 11/1/2007 to 1/15/2008: Replace Both Crankcase-To-Head Tubes (Stand Pipes), Includes Time To Perform Diagnosis In This Article (Do Not Use With 9332A, 6584A, 8616A, 8620F, 8005A) 6.9 Hrs. DEALER CODING BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE 9A332 01

A very important step with doing head gaskets on a diesel engine is having the crank in the right position. With everyone doing motor work now some lack the experience and or advantage of having done apprentice work with a knowledgable motor guy or whatever. I mean there are a lot of techs being throw to the wolves nowadays. "Oh your diesel certified here ya go have at it." Now I'm not saying this applies to your fellow working on this beast. But with this goofy rocker setup with the head bolts going thru the fulcrum plates, patience and having the pistons in the right spot are very important. That plus the fact the push rod ends disappear into the black hole of calcutta upon installation. I bar the motor over many times with the valve covers off to see if my static settings will create any problems when dynamics are enabled. Most of the time it there is a problem with insatallation error it will show up right away before everything is buttoned up. On another note these things are ticking time bombs and the truck could be put together perfectly and it just decided to give it up. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif

This is a photo of an '04. I lay the brake components on the motor without breaking anything open. I disconnect the steering shaft at the gear. The '05 is much easier because the abs unit is on the fender instead of tucked in the front left wheel well. I bungy everything as close to center as possible, this makes lifting the cab a one man op without a spotter. Note: when taking the a/c lines loose, remove the line to a/c condensor before the line going to the accumulator. If it's hot out and the accumulator line is disconnected first it tends to expand and blow oil and dye out everywhere making a serious mess. Now everything can be laid over out of the way. Note: when putting everything back on the motor to bring the cab down make sure the master is not under the sheet metal that the degas bottle bolts to. The first one I did, I brought the cab down and the degas bracket punched a hole in the master cap.

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This is all the bolts I remove to get a cab off an older 6.0l with auto trans, the cab bolts are laying on the floor of the cab.

For Super Dutys with 18's and 20's we use this wheel chuck Very nice and user friendly allowing cone from inside on any wheel with large hub diameter.

Digging thru some old posts. I remember the first cab I every pulled it was '97 and i had to put an engine in a new body style '97 F-150. It was a stick shift standard cab. With the body out of the way it was much easier to manuever the engine to trans line up procedure. Our body shop was putting a frame under an Explorer at the time and I got the idea there after seeing how easy it was and the room the was available. After that I did all the rest in chassis though until the '99 head gasket leak fiascoe came about then it was off with the cabs again.

Do you guys have some sort of company funded stress relief avenue? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

Quote: Has anyone tried this theory of "beating on the truck" long enough to free up one that is seized??????? I've put about 14 of these things in and it's been 50/50. I've yet to take one back to the parts counter or out of the truck. I try to move it by hand on the bench, if it wont move I get my small hammer and tap it back and forth thru it's motion of travel. Once she's all together she gets the dog piss driven out of 'er. All diesels that I drive get pounded on during my post test drive, and the customer is welcome to ride along. My test drive includes 8 miles up a winding road posted at 40 mph then back down the interstate which parallels the backroad to the shop. I wind it right up to the limiter once I'm on I-91 and I have had some hit 105 mph pretty damn quick. Just put one in an '06 tow truck today with only 1330 miles on the odometer. I guess they can't last forever

Quote: I don't know what a "level one dealer" is, maybe someone in the know can elaborate a bit. Basically to be a level one dealer you have to nothing but customer pay work. No warranty, PO5's PO1's PO7's you know AWA's. And if you do warranty work it can't be engines and trans jobs, just light trim work or something that is cheap. Oh and send all your diesel work to another dealer. Then you can be level 1 certified and be excempt from jumping thru all the hoops. This obviously is extreme and full of sarcasm but it's also true.

Did my first one piece fitting yesterday. Went just as easy as the old style but without fiddling around with gear to bracket clearance issues. I have to say the instructions weren't much help. I turned the fitting in 5 turns and it didn't line up. I actually turned it all the way in til the o-ring and plate bottomed out then back out 1 turn and it lined up perfectly. I had to use the plastic stuff because I don't have anything else and I was in a hurry. To offset twisting I stuck a phillips screwdriver in one hole and it used it like a back up wrench while torqueing the fitting. Now I claimed op A and B for the work I did, because that's all I did. This was good for 5.7 hrs, which is a 3 hour job all day if you go straight for the fitting without diag. With that said and the verify 60 issue out there how many of us are going to hit as many of these ops that are available and are we going to actually do what the ops say? To be honest and the mood I am in at the moment I would have claimed more but we didn't have any parts to put under the valve covers. Plus it was 4:30 when I got the job and I was in a hurry to get it done and go home, because I have today off. The old fitting was destroyed as most would guess and the truck is fixed and back on the road.

A word of caution on those, sometimes the black release doodad will come off the line. Don't reconnect the line with that thing off there, whew catastrophy avoided.

Quote: You fellers do realize he is a member here right? I did, that's why I tried to choose my words carefully and even backed out altogether originally. I think his reply was taken out of context and would have sounded diferently if spoken in a conversation. But did it ever fan the flames of this topic, 4 pages in two days worth of posts!!!!! Back to the verify 60. I feel cheated honestly. Look at how many people know about it's cancellation campared to the number that knew about it's conception. It's been on the front page of FMC for a week or so. I bet the original wasn't. So now I'm faced with a moral decision see the tsb post for 08-09-09.

Quote: Do you think it was harsh? Or was it truthful? Not really harsh, definitly not truthful, but a personal dig. I access all and I mean all shop manuals on the net, the computer is in front of the vehicle I am working on, so it doesn't take much effort to read the front page. No truth in being preoccupied with other things to see what's new there. Keith are you a mind reader or inside my computer here somewhere? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/scratchhead.gif

I was going to elaborate but ended up deleting my comment. So here it is: I think that you're on the board trying to get some genuine proffesional comments on the subject and then personal items are brought in to it. I didn't see the memo either and I don't run a website. So if I reply should I be asked if I'm too lazy to log in? or that I forgot to log in for one day or I was on vacation and missed the window of opportunity altogether? You're right it is silly and I was joking around when I said it but the comment could have been left out of the FMC post. Of course I could have read it wrong and he could just be poking the bear, after all there aren't any smilicons over there. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Post deleted by flmmaz

The dealer I am at now was level 1 and the first to get blue oval certified. Then I showed up and that went all to hell. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk2.gif

Our local Sears shop sent us a Probe they put a battery in that still wouldn't charge, after deciding it was over their heads. I popped the hood and took a look see to find no alternator belt. Same store sent us an Escort they said had a bad wheel bearing. They just did an oil change and tire rotation. I take it down the highway and run over a road reflector and it sounded like someone shot at me with a cannon. Got back to the shop and all the tire pressures were over 100 psi. Jeez.... these guys just rotated the tires!!!

This is two links that I boot legged from fmc regarding what you're talking about. http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t78/Ehollenbaugh/Picture303.jpg http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t78/Ehollenbaugh/Picture301.jpg I'm not sure how this is going to solve any problems though.

/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rofl.gif Don't let the location fool ya, I'm originally from Anderson South Carolina. Home of the Clemson Tigers!

I like to be on the other end of the phone, it's got to sound like a broken record! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif

Looks good. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif Now would be good time to undercoat the ol girl! On edit: Just curious what was wrong with this unit?

How bad a fight did you have to get them to pony up?

Ya'll work off a dirt floor? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

Sounds like the cinemaplexes will be booming. When things were dead at my old dealer, and it would be 110 degrees out, we would sneak off and catch a movie. One morning the power was out. Four of us jumped in a car and went to the Greenville mall. We stopped in at the arcade center and they had this brand new sitdown motorcycle race game. The cost was like 75 cents which was a lot in the mid 90's, but the kicker was the door was left open on the game. We dumped all the tokens out on the floor and played that thing for hours.....no charge. We ate at the food court and stopped by the local hot rod shop on the way back and still made it back in time for the power to get going. Ahhhh best day at work that I can remember.