Brad Clayton

Number 1 main bearings spun and then seized. Crankshaft continued to turn at all costs. The rear of the crank separated itself from the front just behind the number 1 and 5 rod journal. The bearings then got pounded into submission and it dumped a shit tonne of oil out of the front crank seal. The resulting freedom of movement on the front pistons allowed the pistons and valves to get up close and personal. Long block approved no questions asked......I sent photos.

Well this one has been acting up still. I showed the customer how to get it running when it acts up and they have been dealing with it for the time being. It finally laid down and they towed it in, however it started for me. I went to lunch with the guys from the company that owns the truck, today and they told me the truck had a remote shutdown/start system in the rear. This setup is used for the boom and I am willing to bet it is what is causing my problems. Hopefuilly I will have some answers by the weekend.

Got this one out and apart.........broken crank.

You know how they say a truck will have to get worse before it can get better? Well this one just came back In on the hook, motor raising hell and a gigantic hole in the oil pan.

Your dealer should invest in Alldata or something similar: The labor time for warranty replacement can be found by using the word search (among many other ways) under the SLTS tab in PTS: I would never replace an injector on a 64 without first doing a manual compression test on that cylinder, especially cylinders 2 and 8, they are the worst for engine damage, such as bent rods, broken pistons and such.

All I gotta say is.....none of that propaganda applies to the 6.7L. They have some of the worst labor times I have seen in 25 years with Ford.

To be 100% sure, just pull fuse 29 in the central junction box, that wire is the only one it supplies. If power is removed from the wire then your golden.

Alright, I got to the bottom of this here dealy. If you look up a lower pan gasket for a 2011....then you will get a gasket 6710-B. If however you look up a gasket for a 2012...then you will get a note that says use RTV silicone. I had a truck with a build date of 2012 but the engine was built in 2011 so I still had a composite pan. I didn't think to look back one year model so I just updated the pan and the bolts. My pan was chock full of metal anyhow from a grenaded engine, so it worked out better on my end. Sorry for jumping the gun and posting incorrect information. If there is anything that bugs me, it's disinformation on the web. I try not to be a part of such goings on.

That would be her. They kinda scatter in all different directions from that driver kick panel area.

In the bundle of blunt cut customer access wires above the park brake pedal, there is a wh/bl wire that is 10 amp fused in run. I use this for all the plow installations. The only draw back on your setup is it's not hot in accessory.

My parts department has some special people in there........I will be following up on this and finding out what went wrong on our end. I asked for a gasket......all I wanted was a gasket.

Would you mind listing the part number of the gasket if you still have the bag it came in?

The composite oil pan gasket is no longer available from Ford. If you go to the parts counter and order a gasket.....a new metal oil pan will show up at the counter the next day. I have a document in the works with part numbers and such,

I never update until absolutely forced to "we're gonna shut you down if you don't" situation comes around.

Got one in my bay now with this code. It passed all test with flying colors, however a KOER test flagged P0088 in addition. Looked at freeze frame data and requested pressure was just under 4000 psi and actual was 8000 psi. Gonna pull the PCV and have a look see in the rail. Looks like a rail is the consistent fix on these, no?

That's a good idea on the PTO control deal. I did notice a speed pot to the right of the steering wheel. I will get them back in towards the end of next week and disable it to see how it responds.

If I take command of the VCV or PCV it wont act up. I looked at a shit load of pids and the only ones I saw that changed in unison were the four I narrowed it down to in the posted screen shot. I save screen shots by first hitting the print screen button on the keyboard, then opening up the paint program, then pasting it in the paint screen. You must use the save as button and it will default to PNG. You need to hit the down arrow in the "save as type" bar and this will open up and give many options. I use the JPEG option then name the picture and put in my pictures section (not documents, or downloads or ect.) this allows me to mark up or alter the image later.

Here is the complaint: http://youtu.be/BuKqsB_n72Q

Bit more info. 2223 hours and 481 idle hours with 77098 miles = 34.68 MPH and 160.28 MPIH. The customer needed the truck and when I backed it out a few minutes ago it acted up while idling backwards in reverse out of my bay. Here is a screen shot with minimal pids, the spikes happen when the truck surges. I checked the turbo for any issues and its straight. VGT pid doesnt show any issues either.

Got one giving me fits here. 2012 F-550 with a crane/service body. 77k on the clock not sure of the hours (i am away from the truck at the moment). As long as the truck is at idle it will do like a hiccup thing (kinda like a PCM reset when it's 5 volt ref shorts out for a split second). The engine will rev for second then idle fine then lope then idle fine then rev then idle and on and on. Not a code to be found in any module. Truck had factory fuel filters on it so I changed them. I took a fuel sample and it was good. I popped out the VCV and checked for metal (had the intake off putting a turbo coolant fitting on) it was all good. Checked fuel trims with nothing exciting to report. Looked at VCV and PCV pids and the VCV would spike when the odd idle event occurs. Contacted hotline and they said a frigged up FRP sensor could cause that. I unplugged the sensor and it idled fine. I replaced the sensor and it still acts up. If the truck is raised off idle even a 100 RPM it wont act up. I also have trouble getting it to do it in gear at idle. Put it in park and everything is jabberwonky just like the power balance screen. I mean the traces are all over the place. I'll try and post some screen shots later. I am at a loss at the moment.

Onions are the devil!

Only by the Grace of God, was this fellow spared more pain and agony. As it happens a co-worker had forgot something on his tool box and drove back to the shop to get it. He was quite surprised and scared to here someone in the back screaming bloody murder at the top of their lungs for help. He took the fellow to the hospital and the victim's life has been altered ever since by a not so properly functioning foot.

Ford hubs are easily pushed out by using the axle shaft. Simply put a pry bar in each end of the shaft where it mates up at the axle housing and pry towards the knuckle. The shaft does all the work and puts even pressure on the hub which is critical to getting all 4 studs to slide out of the knuckle.