Brad Clayton

I just had another one come in that caught fire, but the bracket bolt for the pipe was missing instead of the cooler bolt. So I wonder if a dose of medium strength blue is in order for both bolts. The one in the picture above will need some heat to get it apart because I used red stuff. I have since switched to blue.

I don't think it's so much that they aren't large enough. I think it's that they didn't put anything on them. Or they loctited them in. I laughed when the directions said to use loctite on the bolts into the egr valve, then I smeared them up with anti-seize and screwed them in, The shop manual states to apply loc-tite only to the bracket bolt that goes into the egr cooler. This is extremely important and must be done to prevent the bracket from coming loose, allowing the egr supply pipe to wiggle around and break, and then set fire to the surrounding plastic bits.

How do you get to the brackets and harness on the back of the cooler if you don't pull the intake? They can be easily accessed from under the vehicle, it helps to have long arms though.

Gonna need a fuel pulse pickup box in order to use a regular automotive timing light. Mac tools makes a nice one #ET18dpm. It has a clamp that hooks to the number 1 fuel line and an inductive loop on the box that the timing light hooks to. All the ones I set, roll out the door at 8 degrees, (a timing light with an advance knob or adjustment keys needs to be used).

One cylinder head R&R is pretty straight forward and is just as easy with the cab on. I did a document on left head removal and it is stickied at the top of the 6.7 forum. One nice thing about the left side is the block always drains when the coolant is drained from the radiator due to the oil cooler feed at the bottom of the left side of the block.

I guess four's not a charm, eh?

Been a bit of a busy week for ol B-rad. Clockwise from bottom left: 64 with a cavitated front cover and leaking radiator. 67 with a wiped out turbo and bits in the intercooler. 64 with a pooched oil cooler with intermix in both directions (a real shit show). 64 with a bad right up-pipe. 60 with a ruptured egr cooler and 24 volt FICM. and last but not least a 64 (outside running) that I just replaced another oil cooler on.

Nope, everything sounds good to me. I lost count of how many head gaskets I did on the old IDI's. When you look at the replacement gasket where it seals the water jacket you'll know why. The intake manifold can be a bit aggravating lining up all the bolts if it is not sitting nice and flat on the engine. If the fuel system looses it's prime, just crack the number 1 injector line loose or number 2 until fuel bubbles out and it should bust off.

I've been a Ford guy for decades and I have heard all the wise cracks but I can't believe I have never heard this one 'til the other day: "Did you hear Ford is coming out with tailgate warmers for next years pickups? It's so your hands wont get cold when you're pushin' 'er off the road"

6R140 Shift Quality Diagnosis Today’s project is a 2011 F-250 with a shift flair during light acceleration. The customer didn’t know which gear was acting up (although the cluster will tell you what gear you’re in) he just said it “shifts funny”. Transmission fluid level was verified and then a proper test drive was executed to verify the concern. A visual inspection was performed and there was nothing to report as being a problem. A vehicle session was started in the IDS. No codes were reported. Oasis was consulted and no known issues or prior history came back. Now it’s time to gather some more data using datalogger and selecting transmission specific pids and retest driving. All the shift solenoid amperage pids were selected and when the vehicle shifts into 4th gear, solenoid B has a sporadic pattern and the RPM’s flare up as indicated by the arrow. The shop manual confirms that solenoid B comes back on when shifting to forth gear. The next step is to replace the affected solenoid and recheck. The solenoids in this transmission are rather finicky and must be ID’ed and replaced with the correct part number or problems will arise (similar to a 6.7 injector). The IDS can easily identify the needed solenoid band. First go to programmable parameters and transmission and select the tick button. The next few screens will get you to here and this will identify the band and whether the solenoid is normally high or low. The shop manual has this nice little chart with the part numbers. Once you have the band number and the high or low designation then you can take the part number to the parts counter and avoid a lot of frustration. Now it’s time to install some parts. Solenoid replacement is pretty straight forward on this unit. After getting the pan back on, it’s time to fill the sump. We had a few good years of a vertical trans dipstick but unfortunately we are back to a horizontal unit. Draining the pan will require a minimum of 8 quarts of fluid, this one took 10 to top if off. Although it isn’t necessary, I like to reset the trans tables. A transmission drive cycle must be completed and to do so requires the trans temp to be above 196 degrees F. The cluster can be utilized to monitor the temp. Getting a 6R140 up to that temp is not an easy task as they run rather cool. This truck was driven 10 hard miles and only reached 160 degrees. A trick I like to use in order to get the temps up quicker and with less effort, is to use IDS and datalogger to shut the converter off so it will not lock up. This will allow for a continuous fluid sheer and will heat the trans up pretty quickly. The last step in the repair is to verify it’s fixed. This truck only acted up cold, so it was parked in the shop overnight and retested the next morning. It performed flawlessly and the above data capture shows a much better amperage ramp up.

Awesome, hey how long is it going to take to do those thermostats again?

I likes.

It would appear to me that the only acceptable radiator for a Super Duty chassis is a down flow design. In 25 years, I have never replaced a pre 08 radiator that was just bad and leaking. The ones I have replaced were customer induced failures. The wide or in a 6.7 very wide horizontal flow radiator definitely can't hold up to much articulation or frame flex.

I was toying with a 6.7 the other day upon Glen's (8WA Sman) run-in with a inertia switch issue. I know some 6.0L and 6.4L engines will run all day with the inertia switch unplugged and the fuel pump itself unplugged for that matter. Can't tell you how many times a customer has come in for fuel filters only to find the engine wouldn't run afterwards because the pump had shit out no telling when and the fuel prime had been lost once the system was opened to remove the filters. Anywho a 6.7L will shut down immediately after the switch is tripped. I am not sure what the PCM is disabling after it sees the loss of voltage on the pump output line (FPM pin 32) and switched voltage on the (FDSOM pin 49) line.

An auto trans will definitely up shift quicker with a lower gear ratio on a stock tune.

If the sensor is rather brittle, then I will heat the extractor screw up a bit with a small torch before threading it in.

Not sure what you guys do with your egr cooler cores.....

Our wonderfully abundant parts department does not stock these sensors. So other means and methods must be resorted to.

ECT2 location:

I personally have not seen any problems like that associated with the newer style pump.

High Pressure Oil Pump. Replaced countless pumps for this concern. Replace the cover also If it does not have the relief cut out on the inside for the discharge tube.

Whoop, breaking news, 3 more people shot this morning outside a Kinston night club.

Forgot to put the link in. http://www.homesecurityshield.net/news/most-dangerous-cities-in-north-carolina/