Brad Clayton

There was a crime report released on the local news the other day and then a top 10 thingy popped up on my phone last night. I already know I live in a bad area and the town I work in is one of those types of placed where you get your fuel before dark, nah-wat-ah-mean brah? Well you gotta be noted for something and you guessed it Kinston (K-town) NC is number 2 on the list with an additional note that your chances of becoming a victim of a crime here is 1 in 13 However someone was just shot to death in broad daylight over a little squabble while 2 school busses were dropping kids off in the same area. So we may have been shot up to the number 1 spot!!!!

That's exactly what I thought it was.

I keep a home made jumper in my toolbox to move stubborn towed in trucks that just will not run. The best and easiest way to make one is to lop the connector off a junk sensor and wire a 100 or 200 ohm resistor in the end of the connector. Then all you have to do is determine which one is reading out of whack and plug your jumper in place. The higher the resistor the hotter the pid will read for that sensor. In your case you made need to stop by Radio Shack and get a boat load of resistors.

My indy I part time at is seeing a boat load of 6.4 action. Their 6.0 liter action has turned into the 7.3 liter (fewer and fewer). The owner is thinking about buying another lift for cab off repairs.

The only reason this test has us raise the idle to 1500 rpm is so the engine won't stall when the egr is opened and spent gasses that cannot support another power cycle are introduced into the cylinders. There is a direct relationship between incoming air that is measured by the maf and egr gasses which are not measured by the maf. If you introduce exhaust gasses into the intake stream then the maf reading will go down similar to a decelerating engine (less air coming in thus lower maf reading). If the exhaust gasses start to make their way into the intake stream but get blocked (as in a plugged egr cooler) then the maf reading will start to rise again as if the egr valve were shut. The pcm interprets this as "no egr flow". 6.0's are notorious for egr flow codes even when the egr system is working correctly. This is usually attributed to skewed maf readings that are dirty as hell from shit air filters.

I wonder what would happen if you disconnected the turbo actuator so it can't cycle while the engine is acting up.

Here are a few screen shots.

Fuel rail pressure would be a good pid to monitor also. Check it against FRPDES to know if its high or low.

You are a blessed individual.

It's a good time as long as the person on the receiving end has a healthy mental state and easily and readily I might add, accepts all hazing and ribbing full well understanding that it is in the job description and a right of passage. I always ask a new guy if he can handle it or if he is one of the sensitive types, if he is good to go, then I pile it on relentlessly.

Sounds like Aaron's first day on the job way back when........He turned out alright though. Bahahahaha.

I double checked and it is all good, they were only a couple of bucks which isn't out of the ordinary for Ford's recent pricing. It has been added to the sticky list. http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/topic/3282-odd-part-numbers/

The customer couldn't change air flow direction, it was stuck on vent all the time. I had to tear it out and apart to retrieve all sorts of bits that fell down the defrost registers and jammed into the mode door.

A quick vid of me doing a stumbling narrative of the mode door. http://youtu.be/vehphhfDgIw

The mode door mechanism must be completely disassembled to replace the motor. As the motor bolts from the inside of the frame. Mode door lever goes on top of the motor. Worm channel assy goes on next and the bottom channel will control the mode door. And lastly, this mechanism rides in the upper worm channel and controls the floor door and the defrost door. All in all, I have to say this is a well thought out and nice little unit to work with. The wiring harness is routed very securely to all the motors and is easily checked by accessing the 2 connectors behind the glove box. The mode door apparatus is an engineering marvel and quite the concert to watch in motion. The only two issues I see, are the blower motor resistor and it's difficult access (however it is heavily heat sinked and may never fail), and the fact that loose items can easily find there way from the package tray on the top of the dash to the bottom of the HVAC case via the defroster vents. When this happens the mode door ceases to function correctly.

Ever wonder what goes on inside of one of these dual climate control setups? Here is an inside look. This is the bottom half of the case torn down to the bare nuts. 1 is the driver's floor door, 2 is the passenger floor door, 3 is the optional aux heater slot, 4 is the heater core slot, 5 is where the mode door resides. This tray separates the case into two halves. Both the mode door and the temp doors must be split to fit between the separator for the dual climate control so it will function as if it were a single plenum chamber. Here you can see the mode door is keyed and both doors will move together. The mode door is operated by a cable and is located on the very bottom of the case. These are the temp blend doors and as seen here they are keyed because this is a single climate controlled unit, if the dual option were on this rig then these doors would not be keyed together so they could operate independently. Air diffusers. 1 is the evap core slot, 2 is the heater core slot, 3 is the aux heater slot, and 4 is where the blend door resides. Dual climate control will allow the blend doors to pivot independently of each other here. The driver's blend door will attach at the bottom of the case and the passenger's blend door will attach at the top of the case. If the option is not available then there will be just one blend door motor on the top. The mode doors cannot be operated separate from each other. Lower (driver's) air diffuser in place. Case being assembled up to the point minus the upper (passenger) air diffuser. This is a good shot showing why a case without the aux. heater can't be upfitted. With the separator tray in place you can see there is only a provision for the heater core to fit in. Here is the blower motor resistor. I hope these things never fail. I am not sure how you would get this out without removing the case or at least unbolting it from the firewall and doing some barbaric prying. The unit locks in with a tab and slides in the case towards the blower motor to lock in secure. To remove, simply push down on the tab and slide towards the driver's side of the vehicle and remove. Case assembled and waiting for the defroster panel door. The left side bottom (with foam surround) feeds the driver's panel vents, top left feeds the driver's defrost and floor vents. The passenger's mode door can be seen and the driver's is hidden below it. Defrost door in place. The main control of the whole assembly, the blend door actuator and mechanisms.

I have been around for a while, but never have I seen a truck that was beat so badly that the leafs took on a "W" shape.

Is it grounded properly?.........YEP!

Not sure how this design ever made it past the initial drawing on a scratch pad, much less into actual production. They are a reality and they wear out FAST. Here's a rehash of the shop manual procedure. I like to use the tool kit Ford supplied dealers to do this job, however it can be done with a generic ball joint press kit. I printed these out and keep them in the box for hassle free flat rateness. Here is the ball joint, I think my dealer in Vermont had about 3 dozen of these in stock. Here is the offensive unit in the chassis of a 2006 F-250. I loosen the nut with a 24 mm socket and then use a 2 jaw puller to separate the tapered press fit. You can beat on it with a hammer but it's close quarters for swinging, and the puller makes short work of it. This is the set up to remove the joint. It's a bit of a tight fit, getting an impact on the press. In some cases when more room is needed for the socket setup on the press screw, I will use a large ratchet strap to pull the axle over to the passenger's side of the frame. In some cases, the press will need a little help by way of shock therapy. A couple of raps on the housing containing the ball joint is usually enough to get it moving. She's free. Setup to install. Here again, due to space constraints, I like to start the joint moving by using a wrench. This ensures it starts in straight. Then I hammer it home with the impact until it seats. This particular track bar is getting a new bushing in the other end as well. It was damaged from an unchecked diesel fuel leak. These are pretty straight forward and I use our shop's 20 ton press to drive them in and out. There are two main ways to go about removal, 1st is to heat it up with a torch and melt the rubber a bit to get it moving and 2nd is to use a hole saw kit that fits just inside the outer shell and drill through the rubber separating it from the outside ring. Then you will have the ring left in the eye of the track bar and you just knock it out with an air hammer and chisel bit. Lastly lube up the new unit a smidge and drive it back in with the press.

A good warranty clerk is a keeper for sure. One of the first duty's to be performed when flagging a claim is to read the workshop manual for the repair being flagged. This is mandated by Ford. How many warranty clerks do you think, do that? If they just straight up flag a water pump on a 6.4 and don't read the actual procedure involved with a water pump replacement, then much labor time would be lost. Ford will not kick a claim if the time to be paid is lower than it should be, you can bet'cher boots on that partner.

I got an old abs pump motor I keep handy for the 20 gaugers.

This is a topic over on the "boards" Do You Look Up Your Labor Ops from SLTS? The gentleman that started the thread opens with this statement: There are numerous posts about how dealers do things and comments on what is allowed but this reply is......oh.. shall we say the bee's knees!