blown99

You have to love how they know everything when typing on the message boards and will tell other people how to fix their trucks when they have never turned a wrench for a living. If they know how to repair their own truck then they can mod it. If you don't know how to fix it don't touch anything. Use the ford motorsport cataloge for mods and have the dealer put them on, this way the techs will know what they are looking at and working with.

The check ball is the same as the international DT. You can also use the international DT repair kit for the correct o-rings and sealer for the ferry plugs on the 7.3 pump. The kit consist of the o-rings, few plugs, and a small bottle of sleeve and bearing mount loctite. Be sure to remove all the old sealer from the threads, both female and male. Failure to do so will give you an incorrect torque of the plug which will lead to a leak. Also if you can not achieve the required torque, (usually it strips out)the pump will have to be replaced.

What are you ford guys calling an EGR throttle plate??

Average about one a week. They are stacking up quick right now though as international has them on backorder. Almost all the ones I am doing are school buses and ups package cars.

I usually remove the lower mounting bolts on the up pipe on one side and just loosen one bolt on the other side. It will give you all the slack you need to get the cover out. It takes way longer to realign the turbo to up pipe if you bend the pipe, and even when you think you have it, it leaks anyway. On some chassis that are to hard to access the lower bolts or they are rusted/rotted I have bent/pulled on the up pipe to remove it, then on reassembly, the first conenction I make is the up pipe to turbo, then I will roll the turbo down into its proper position and tighten the mounting bolts.

2005 6.0 that cranks but doesn't start. It also has a light on the dash lit up that says TBC. What does the TBC stand for? The customer gives it a shot of starting fluid and it starts up and runs fine. I am guessing a high pressure oil system problem, but will have to wait and see if the customer brings the truck in to us. Just curious about the TBC light.

I too have seen coolant leaking out of the V-band clamp that connects the up pipe/Ypipe to the EGR cooler. This will show up as a leak down the rear of the block. Usually when it sits overnight.

International no longer wants us techs using shop air to test the high pressrue oil system on the I-6 engines as they say it is unreliable. I wonder how much longer we will be using the air test on the 6.0 Every time I have ever put air to one of these systems I hear leaks, even if there is no problem with the system.

How would shop air hurt the injectors when they are being buzzed? I would imagine that they would get much louder with the air vs the oil which would quiet them a bit. Wouldn't the buzzing effect just help remove the oil from the injectors with the air pressure being behind the oil. COuple questions on the ford side - why was the key on when doing the air test? To hard to acess the IPR valve to energize it with B+. On the international chassis the injectors are only buzzing after the engine was running and shut off or after an extensive crank and not just a key on key off deal. Keep us informed with the outcome of the inj. please.

Is there any fluid in the charge air cooler? Does the fluid bead up if you put a drop of it on the work bench?, that would indicate water.

I just attended a fuel seminar on the new ULSDF and they got into the bio diesel a bit. Both stanadyne and bosch have had a lot of warranty issues with the bio diesel. The stuff is actually etching the metal which changes its color and surface texture rendering the parts useless. They went on to say that there was no advantage to people using bio, higher cost, lower BTU's, and even higher emissions. So I could definatly see it delaminating the tanks since it is strong enough to etch steel parts.

TSB = customer pay right? Any idea on how much a new cluster is? Labor to program? Thanks

So what comes from the factory in the 4R100? Regular mercon or synthetic mercon? I know mercon V is not recommended for the 4R100 (although that seems to be debatable lately).

This is on my own 2002 f350 with a 7.3l. Every once in a blue moon after a warm start up, the glow plug light does not go off. I key off and restart and the light stays off. What should I check for? Should I even worry about it? Of course when it happens I don't have a meter to check the glow plug solenoid to see if it is sticking (although I don't think it is as it is only a few months old, starts with no smoke).

What is your guys opinions about changing over to synthentic ATF on a 4R100 behind a 7.3L? I've got 54K on mine and it hasn't been touched yet, that I know of, and it is due for a service. I've had a E4OD loose second gear in the past, a month after switching over from regular ATF to synthetic so I am a bit leary about doing the switch on my daily driver.

I was told today that international will be building these engines for ford, (by the instructor teaching class). (international school) Prior to today I was told that ford dropped international due to the high warranty claims. What do you ford guys know?

How do you dead head the hpop on a 6.0? Remove the STC fitting and install a gauge?

I have seen the LL injector in international chassis engines. Only a few times though. The story I heard with the HEUI system was the CAT had the money but navistar had the technology.

I would think yo uwould have to do both heads. I know international is doing an upgrade kit with the cylinder head replacement. It uses late 2006 heads, gaskets, rocker boxs', injector hold down clamps, and stepped dowls for the head to block locator. I was not able to get just one head the last time I needed one. Fords inventory may be different though. I would also at least do the EGR cooler as we all know they leak and the extra pressure in the system from the cracked head won't help it none.

I found all the ring gaps lined up on this engine with the exception of two cylinders which were somewhat spaced. There was heavy carbon/soot tracks past the rings. I could not get a straight answer as to how long it sat. I was told it was running rough, driven back to the station shut off and would not restart when the fleet mechanics went out to check it out. I don't know how long it was between the two. There was also a heavy ridge of soot at the top of the cylinder that needed to reemed away in order to remove the piston/rings assembly, which isn't characteristic of an electronic diesel with only 31K.

Had another 365 come in on the hook with a no start with uneven cranking. No codes, all is good with the hard start no start diag. Pull the glow plugs and do a compression test. All had 40-60 psi with the exception of one that had 100 psi. Did a leak down test and found the air going into the crankcase. Bus only has 17K on it. I squirted oil into the cylinder, disconnected the glow plugs and gave it a little starting fluid. Cranked the engine a bit and it started. Gave it a good drive and parked it, started right up the following morning. This is a school bus, as was the last one I ran into with this problem. This one was definatly sitting for a while. The turbo vanes were frozen solid with visible rust. The unison ring was stuck to the housing and had to be pryed off. Strange how the rings are sticking after sitting for a month.

Well after a month of waiting for parts I finally was able to reassemble this engine. I put a set of heads on it as the old ones were warped. The replacement heads came as a kit with neww rocker boxs, stepped locating dowls for the different head gaskets and different injector hold down clamps. It was/is a late 2006 head update kit. Anybody else install one yet?? Installed new pistons, rings and rod bearings. EGR cooler, oil cooler, coolant filter and degas bottle, reflash, as part of the uptime deal. Engine fired right up and ran excellent.

Did you notice the repair times on the UPS junks. 3.0 to repair the STC fitting, 3.9 for all other chassis. Half the equipment is in different locations, the ECM/IDM don't come out to easily. Just did one yesterday and was hoping the branch tube was ok, it was but it was slightly bent. I have so much 365 work it is digusting.

I havn't seen any tubes cracked at that location, just the block pushed out of the STC fitting.

I installed the updated bracket about two weeks ago. I think it may become part of internationals up-time procedure for the 6.0 as they sent me the part with the water filter kit that I ordered.