blown99

What is he talking about on grinding the injector hold downs? I do on average 3 sets a week, and have never had an issue with injectors loosening up. I also don't tend to read any message boards about these engines other than this one because of all the bad info given out really gets me going. I have watched this guys you tube videos and have given him verbal advice in the past. I came to the same conclusion as you guys.

I ran into this problem once on a bus. Customer had the heads replaced at another dealer, then brought it to us. Found one oddball clamp allowing the injector to pop out. 4 injectors later and the correct clamp and all was well.

I've repaired them with the sleeve and a new seal. I had to trim the sleeve to fit the application. With what I see with reman products, I like to at least make the attempt to repair it first.

Check the fuel pressure. It should be at least 60 psi at all times. Unplug the icp sensor - does the choppy idle/running go away? You guys do the inj install? If you unplug the cam sensor and crank it, does it crank even? Excessive blow bye? You guys have me swamped with brown. Everywhere I look I see brown.

I wouldn't trust the otc tool. 2500 psi is a lot different than 25"hg. How many times have we been tricked working with an A/C system. Vac gauge doesn't drop off, must be no leaks right? wrong. Same thing goes for this tool. If the engine runs good, no skip, turbo is good, blow bye test is good, then replace all the injectors. You will never see the smoke from an internal injector o-ring leak.

The ecm from the 99 is different than the 02 and ups (different number of pins/different harness). If you put in an ecm from a 99.5 and up, be sure the doner engine has the AD injectors (came in 99.5 and up engines) I know guys swap the turbos around to tailor their towing requirements etc, so just matching up a down pipe should be all that is needed for that. Some belt routing is different - two alt., upper hose goes through the belt, others go around the belt.

These egr valves are a little different than the ford ones. They are cast aluminum base, not the stamped steel.

no special tool needed. Remove the two bolts, then I tap a prybar between the intake and egr valve to pop it free.

Either .6vdc or .9vdc is the voltage for the ebp with a koeo test (0psi).. I would pull the egr valve out and inspect this first as it is the easier than disassembling the turbo. Usually if the ebp sensor and tube is plugged, so is the egr valve ports. Be sure to inspect inside the intake as the ports that feed the egr valve in the intake can also be plugged.

Your biased icp high reading created a false load % calculation (your load calculation would have been much higher probably around 40% at idle), which would cause more vgt duty cycle giving you a higher ebp reading.

Pull the egr valve and check to see if it is plugged and or stuck open. Is the engine misfiring? Runs smooth at idle? Usually a bad/plugged ebp sensor, bad/plugged egr valve, and or sticking turbo will cause black smoke complaints. At warm idle your ebp reading should be about 2.2psi.

You can buy a gauge that will go to 10,000psi by ashcroft, liquid filled for about $100. They work great for testing all types of hydraulic systems and are very durable. Does this have the threaded AN fittings on the high pressure oil lines that feed the heads? If so, remove the hose and apply shop air at 120 psi to each head. Leave the air connected for a while. Remove the oil fill cap and dipstick. Listen for air leaks in the engine. What ever bank is leaking is the one you will have to pull the valve cover and inspect. An alternative to this would be remove both valve covers, unplugg the cam sensor, apply battery power and ground to the ipr valve (not longer than 90sec at a clip), have someone crank the engine. This will make max icp and will allow you to find you high pressure oil leak. From what you have described I would guess and say that an injector o-ring is leaking. Many of the injectors that I have taken out of the ups cars have the first generation of o-rings on them. I am always surprised to see the hundreds of thousands of miles on those orings without failures.

Thank you very much for understanding the position I was put in! I appreciate your respect and support.

02 F-350 7.3l gets me to work in the winter and tow the trailer with the toys around the country side. Daily driver in the summer months is a 96 mustang vert turbo, caged, heavily built sleeper. This has been the most fuel efficient vehicle that I have ever owned. (seriously) Wife drives an 03 wrangler.

I can't look at oasis reports etc; but if I was a customer and my 6.0 that is 5yrs old has had a couple egr/oil coolers replaced under warranty, numerous injectors, a few turbo sticking conditions, I would be pissed if I had to pay for any of these repeat failures when the truck was just out of warranty. If international stepped up to the plate and actually fixed these problem parts instead of just replacing them with the same quality parts that have failed numerous times over while the engine was under warranty, then we would have a lot less pissed off customers.

Injectors, hpop, egr cooler/oil cooler, bed plate reseal, turbo, head gaskets. Most of the ones I do leave the shop at $3-4000. range. Then six months later they come back for another round (different problem/repair of course) My cousin spends 4-6K a year on his 03 6.0l to keep it running. I don't know what is wrong with him.

I haven't seen or heard of any rod failures on these engines. Just been the normal injectors, egr cooler ,oil cooler, and high pressure oil leaks.

I've dealt with Neil there on several occasions. He has called me for tech info and parts. Always comes across as being professional. I haven't been able to install any of his parts yet but will give him a try on the next side job.

I looked at this earlier this week. Went out to bring it in and it wouldn't start. I diaged it as failed inj. None of them would buzz, hardly precycled them etc. Had to get authorization to replace them and of course tech central gives you the run around for 3 days. I ended up replacing them today and it fired right up. Tore into the egr cooler problem and found the cooler to be leaking and the oil cooler to be original. Ordered everything up.

You won't be able to pull any codes on the 1939 datalink with that ecm. The only only international engine ecms that put out service related info on the 1939 are the maxforce (ecm3) ecms. The ecm you are working with is programmed on the 1939 data link and communicates with other modules on the 1939 link, it just uses the 1708 to communicate to the service tools. To check your 1939 data link measure voltage from the yellow wire at the ata connecotor to ground. Should be around 2.5vdc. Do the same to the green wire. should be around 2.5vdc. The two readings should never be the same. Take the two readings and add them up and they should equal 5 volts. Ex. one reading is 2.4vdc the other will be 2.6vdc. They add up to 5vdc. Which ever one has the higher voltage will be the can+ or high, which ever one is the lower voltage is can- or low. Disconnect the batteries, measure across the two can wires (yellow and green in the ata connector)and you should have 60 ohms. If you have 120 ohms then the terminating resistor at the end of the data link is missing or there is an open in the data link wire. I have seen very few issues with a 1939 data link. The ones I have seen tortured me as they were extremely intermittent and temperature dependent. Also, currently the only software that works on the vt275 (that I am aware of) is service maxx. The latest version of master diagnostics does not work with the 275. It does not show all the faults, gives you unknown diag codes, unable to perform relative compression test and injector disable test, doesn't show any boost solenoid info, doesn't know what a MAF is. Hope this helps

What is required to do them in chassis? I am assuming pull the trans, but what else?

I was told that servicemaxx was a free download for the ford techs? Is this true? Can anyone send me a link to it? I wouldn't mind having it for my own personal laptop. You can use the IC4 with service maxx, but expect to have issues with it (computer freezing up, blue screen etc.). You should not be using MD with the v-6 engines. There are many fault codes, PIDS, and test that will not show up properly with MD.

Dwayne's shop is around 75 miles away from mine. He is always welcome to come by and see what I am doing. Pat was up here last week picking up a few trucks. He always makes an effort to come over and say "thanks for doing a great job, we appreciate it." We will see if this egr cooler job will be done next week. I'm taking the week off and since I'm the resident ups guy, we shall see if anyone else steps up to the plate.

Yep, its on the hook to my shop as I write this. Yes, the oil cooler being blocked will cause an egr cooler to fail. The other dealer that performed the other cooler replacements are not aware of the oil coolers being a root cause of the problem on a 6.0 let alone the 275.