blown99

I had a chance to check this truck out today. Had a bunch of codes for the idm, 525, 534 and opens for each inj. Load tested the idm power and grounds- checked out good. Replaced the IDM that you supplied and programmed it up. Checked out your blown 10 amp fuse complaint. Found the main ecm power wire before it splits off to three other loads to be chaffed on the top right radiator support. Soldered and heat shrunk the chaffed wiring and insulated the harness with some heater hose, added a few body clamps to prevent the harness from moving. I don't recall seeing the IDM power circuit off run off the 10 amp ecm fuse. The IDM has a separate relay and usually a 30-40amp fuse.

The idm does not come programmed. I have one of Pats Stratford trucks apart right now with the idm hanging there if you need yours programmed up.

Just saw that you are in CT, what shop are you out of?

I take it this is a workhorse chassis? I work on these a lot and have found chaffed wiring at the top corners of the radiator housing, remove the air filter assembly and check the wiring that wraps around the backside of the ecm/idm mounting bracket. They seem to get pulled tight once techs pull on the harness to remove the right side valve cover. I have never seen an egr valve itself blow a fuse (not that it can't happen) and I would not suspect the ecm. I would run a new wire before I changed any parts if I couldn't find the chaffe.

Check for an A/C output from the alternator? Alternator spiking high?

Before you condemn the hpop, inspect the ipr valve o-rings. If the o-ring is cut it can create a hard start condition. This usually creates a long crank when hot issue too. I agree with Bruce on the lpop and reservoir stand pipe not being a cause of this complaint.

I considered doing that but, the chassis I was working on is known for picking up lots of little pebbles and tossing them into the engine bay. I feared having a pebal/debris fall down into the cylinder head and cause damage.

I had one come in a few weeks ago with a coolant leak between the front cover and block. Replaced the gasket, and had a heck of time getting the big fat o-ring between the intake manifold and front cover to squeeze in. I lubed up the o-ring and finally managed to get it in by angling the cover a bit. Pressure test and road test were good unitl it came back two weeks later for a leak. Found the leak to be at the fat o-ring between the intake and front cover. I removed the intake and found the fat o-ring to have gotton cut when I squeezed it in there. Just wondering what you guys have done to get the front cover back in place? Do you always remove the intake?

With the hole in the fender, the access is wide open, very easy to get to. I can walk up to the truck, reach in and unplug the sensor. Talked to my buddy a Matco tool guy that takes care of that shop. He spewed all types of crap about the guy that did the job. He has only been there 3 weeks and has had several issues/complaints. Apparently he replaced a tie rod end on a taurus, wrote up that he performed an alignment that he never actually did, then billed the customer for doing the alignment. scumbag!

Yeah they have hoist. What does the cam sensor recall pay for time?

The tech is about 300lbs, there was no way he was easily fitting under the push bar for the plow frame. I'll snap a few pics later. Thanks for the phone number Keith.

I brought my own personal 02 f-350 in to the local dealer for the cam sensor recall and the cruise/brake switch recall. I get it back and find that the tech cut a large hole in the right inner fender to r&r the cam sensor. You can clearly see the paint line from the missing plastic from the recently painted frame, and the fresh cut black plastic of the fender skirt with insulation dangling in the wind. So I return to the dealer and talk to the sm. He gets the tech who denies the hacking. They tell me to bad it wasn't them, good bye. They wouldn't give me the reps phone number, so if anyone has a list of reps phone numbers I would appreciate it. The dealer is in northwest Connecticut.

I work for an international dealer and am not aware of any turbo rebuild kits for that turbo. They stopped offering individual pieces for turbos many years ago. I think the 6.0 turbo is based on a gt38. If so, then a standard seal and bearing kit would work. I would try bullseye power. http://www.bullseyepower.com/contactus.asp You give them the dimensions of the parts you have and they will supply you with the correct repair kit. Maybe you are thinking of the turbo reconditioning kits that international offers to repair rusty and sticking exhaust housings?

Thank you very much!

I am working on a 96 mustang gt 4.6 sohc. I am using a matco scan tool and need to know what my coolant temp actually is. The scan tool has the reading in volts only. The only info I have found is the lower the volts the hotter the coolant and that normal range is .5-.7. I am looking for a conversion chart to take this voltage and give me a temp in F.

I have an International part number of 1854267C93, fuel pressure regulator kit for a vt 275. It looks like it would be the same for the 04 and up 6.0 in a ford chassis. Can anyone cross this and confirm it for me. Thank you. Mark

These decisions are not up to me. Like I said before, I would have liked to dug into it to find the root cause. In the end it is up to the customer to decide based on the facts that we give them - it is just out of warranty, now is the time for the SM to make a few phone calls and see what can be done. This is a regular customer who buys all their trucks from us. They currently are down a truck and have one on order that will be delivered in late summer. I would have laid it on the table for the customer; I'm with you guys, fix it right or don't do it, but in this case it was not up to me. Some people would rather spend 10hrs to jerry rig something vs 11hrs to fix it right. What could have been a small repair now will undoubtedly turn into a much more expensive repair down the road; heck there is metal floating through the engine. In all honesty I could not feel the difference in the 5hp reduction under load. Strange how the different program mask this problem though. I would like to no the differences in the calibrations but that info is not available.

These engines have all been late 2001 and up, use AD injectors, ipr valve part number ending in 217C91 and are all 215hp or greater. (up to 230hp) Yes, it is a 333 code. Franklin reman (run for your life) Did a bit of digging today. Dumped the oil and filter. Hard to tell if there was contaminants or aeration (although it is serviced at our shop regularly) Ran it, same problem, but took longer to act up and I noticed an intermittent light skip that was just noticeable when logging with master diagnostics. Pulled the high pressure oil reservoir cover and inspected the screen. Found some metal shavings in the screen and reservoir. Boss did not want to tell customer that his new reman engine just out of warranty needs to come apart to find the cause and told me to get it so the "light" doesn't come on. I programmed the ecm with a "2000 444e" program from a 2001 truck. Old calibration was a "2003 444e" (bv04 calibration) although the truck was a 2001. 5 hp less, but it does not let the icp get up to 2500psi so the problem does not occur. Rd test and all was good. No more overshooting of the icp, no more intermittent light skip. I would like to know what is failing, time will tell though. When the problem occured with the old calibration the icp would begin to drop off at full load, around 2000rpm. The ipr% would steady increase to try and compensate for the "leak" until it hits its max duty cyle of 64.05%. It would take 15 secs or so from the time it started to drop off until it was low enough to trip a fault. (drop of 250psi) so it is not a fast quick drop off. I have a snap shot of it on the work computer, I can try to send it to you if you would like?

Looking for some input/advice on a 7.3l 444e in an International chassis. I've had 3 of these exact same problems in the past year all with varying hrs, miles and misc new parts. After a long sustained pull at operating temp only, when the icp is over 2500psi only, the icp begins to slowly fall off until the engine light/active code is set. The first truck I had come in came from another dealer with every part of the icp system replaced - hpop, icp sensor, ipr valve, 8 inj. I fixed this one with a simple reprogram. (I can not get any info from navistar as to what the program would have to do with fixing an icp issue. Next truck basically the same thing, only the reprogram did not fix it. Ran new power and ground wires to the ecm from the batt. New wiring from ipr and icp to the ecm. I ended up using a program from a 210 hp engine truck and the problem went away. (The first two trucks were 230hp, the 210 hp engine does not get to 2500psi of icp) Now I have a 215 hp truck doing the same thing. It has a 1yr old replacement engine. The hpop put out 3100psi, seemed low, so it got replaced as did the ipr valve. That did not fix the complaint. I've seen this on the ford side and it was always debris from a back yard guy doing an oil pan and not cleaning it well, but all these engines I am experiencing this problem on are virgin. IPR duty cycle is 12% hot idle, I have on the previous two engines, removed the valve covers with a hot engine and applied batt power and ground to the ipr and cranked the engine to look for an injector that is leaking an excessive amount oil. Base oil pressure is with in spec at all times. There has to be something that I am missing but don't know what?

I mentioned this repair to a Navistar engine group guy last week at a class I was taking. He was surprised that I knew about it and mentioned that they only use that repair (soldering the IDM) for export/oversees warranty repair. He said "make sure you don't do that for a warranty repair, you won't get paid." I did this repair a few weeks ago on a IDM that was getting tossed, (warranty did not want it back) Worked like a charm. Now I have a good test IDM.

The crankcase to head tube kit is the same between the 4.5l and the 6.0l. Navistar had a recall on these tubes for the 4.5l. This kit has been the replacement for at least the last 2yrs on the navistar side. Some of the new head tube kits come through without the white Teflon back up ring. Don't know why, but I have not had any issues when installing them without the teflon ring. We can't get replacement o-rings for the tubes on the international side, you have to buy the entire tube. It is also recommended to replace them everytime you remove them, including the dummy plug.

You can bet that I write everything down. When I first started in this business I had an engine fail that I rebuilt, 3406B cat. The cam gear was no good, showed the boss, he said to reinstall it. I documented everything. About 2 weeks later it came in with all the push tubes bent. Pulled it apart, found the cam gear had spun on the cam. The fingers pointed, all the old guys laughed. In the end, I had the final laugh, called up the corporate office and had my papers faxed over to the big boss with my documentation. I also now, photo copy stuff like this. I've had stuff get "lost" and info scribbled out etc. You just have to remember that nobody looks out for you, except you.

I put a reman head on it. I was unable to get the valve out. I heated the guide and it still would not budge even with my persuader (5lber) . Customer wanted a replacement head so that is what it got. There was no visible rust or excessive carbon when looking into the ports. No overheat codes, but there were codes for low coolant level caused by the egr cooler leaking. I did find the engine to run a little warmer than normal once it was back together. These usually run 192. This one was running 198-201. Found the radiator to have a partially plugged core but of course management doesn't want to say anything to the customer because they have spent enough money already. These heads are 6mos old and the truck is run everyday except Sundays.

UPS dropped off a package car that supposedly needed an egr cooler because it was steaming out the tailpipe. So I start to check it out and immediately notice and uneven cranking condition. I remove the egr valve and find lots of coolant in the intake, I run the engine and decide it is going to get an oil cooler too. Perform a relative compression test and find #5 to come up with 0. I am guessing I have a bent rod. I give the customer the worst case scenario of it possibly having a bent rod. Remove the valve cover and find #5 intake rocker arm broken, push rod has a slight bow, so now I figure that the cylinder was filled with coolant, someone cranked it over, the intake valves try to open but the wall of coolant pushes back and causes the rocker arm to break. I go in with a scope and inspect only to find the piston appears to come all the way up, no signs of a bent rod. The manager wants me to slap a rocker arm in and send it but we were slow and I gave the customer a worst case scenario so I pulled the head. Everything looked good. Leaked checked the valves - ok, recehcekd the piston-ok, no coolant in the cylinder. Found both heads to have been replaced six months ago by another dealer and had the updated dowl pins etc. So since we are slow I decided I would try out my new valve spring compressor and found one of the #5 intake valves to be frozen in the guide. I wacked this thing with a 2 lb hammer and can't get it to budge. If I listened to the boss this thing would have been a mess, if I was busy I would have never pulled the valve springs and probably would have stuffed the head on and been screwed. I wonder how long the engine has had a skip from the dead #5? This is the first frozen valve I have seen, but have heard about it numerous times on this site in new trucks that have sat on the lot for a while. This truck gets run hard everyday. (has 20,000hrs on it). Just thought I would share my almost missed diag.

Navistar will only warranty an injector that fails this test. They know it does not check the fuel side of the injector. This was discussed during the town hall meeting that they held back in December, then I had a bus last week that failed two injectors with the IPT. Something told me there was more going on than the IPT tester told me. I decided to do a deviation test and found two other cylinders/injectors that were not performing well. I contacted tech and explained my concerns and gave them the deviation numbers and was told to only replace the two that the IPT failed as the warranty center is only warrantying those for now. Drilled two injectors into it and sent it on its way. Not up to my par but no one wants to pay for a complete repair.