eastendpowerstroke

the 9A332 fuel lines are included in the 9G805 kit as well. I parts has got extra lines now whoops /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif

OK Stephen is now my hero /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif DTS Comes through again so we got the following edited list 4 - 8C3Z-6N640-A Exhaust Gasket 2 - 8C3Z-6N640-B Exhaust Gasket 8 - W712878-S439 Body Bolt PER TSB 07-26-2 1 - 8C3Z-9G805-A Kit-Cover Fuel Pump (includes 1 - 8C3Z-9A332-A Fuel line 1 - 8C3Z-9A332-B Fuel Line 1 - 8C3Z-6619-A Pump Cover Seal and 1 - 8C3Z-6619-B Pump Cover Gasket/Harness) (edit) 8 - W302774 Fuel Line Seal (replaced by W302870A 20/pk)edit 5 -1817957-C1 EGR-Pipe Bracket Bolt (edit) 2 - W300003 EGR-OC Bracket Bolts 1 - W711484S439 intermediate steering shaft bolt

I remember somebody was talking about making a hardware list for cab off repairs such as a fuel pump cover gasket replacement TSB-07-26-2 did it ever happen? someone will be my hero if it did /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif, I don't have time to search the threads right now but I have to do one and don't want to spend 2 hours at the parts window pickin bolts out of a picture /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif. Thanks

A hot glue gun will provide hours of entertainment /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif

Next time you have about 1.5 hours sit down and watch this.. http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=3340274697167011147

You must have fallen on your head I wouldn't spend ONE CENT of my own money to "modify" an aftermarket up fit that wasn't designed to be serviced properly. If you SM or warranty admin wont/can't pay you the proper M-time to disconnect and reconnect the wiring then have the Ambulance company ship it to the up fitter to have it modified or removed at there expense.EVER SINCE YOU cut my wiring to fix my engine my flashy lights don't flash the same way they used to.

Quote: I always leave the master and HCU in place and just disconnect the 3 lines from the HCU. I've never had to bleed one afterward. +1 I get a helper to pump the pedal and crack the lines at the HCU before I go driving just to be safe /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif

oh hell no !!! why would you remove it? as I said I only copied the instructions from another sight. I was at work so I only flat rate read them and missed the part about removing the rad sorry.

TEXT copied from fordtechnicians.com PHOTOS available on there sight Go to http://www.fordtechnicians.com register and then click on the "Ford Technicians" link you will see "Body Removal" Tab it is under that tab First thing I done BEFORE placing truck in lift bay was to pull the front scuff plate and kick panels out of both sides and pull the carpet back enough to expose the rubber grommet cap things to get to the 2 body bolts in the front of the cab out. (There are 8 body bolts all together on a Crew Cab. Others may have fewer) For some STUPID reason, Ford decided to have 2 different size body bolts, 21mm right side 24mm left side, go figure.. Then I pulled the bolt out of the lower steering shaft and only left it in there hand tight. (you will want to pull it (steering shaft) completely out and telescope it down through the firewall after you have the vehicle in lift bay) Now its time to release the tension on the parking brake. More info on how to in the service manual Next, if you have a Crew Cab, is to pull the rear seat, tool tray, and jack. Pull rear of carpet forward until you expose the 4 body bolts. After you have removed all the body bolts in the cab, proceed to the lift. Once you are in lift bay, pull the bolt out of the steering shaft and feed it through firewall. Be draining your coolant & recovering refrigerant, while you remove the shift cable from the trans While you are underneath, it is a good idea to go ahead and remove the ground bolt behind RF wheel @ frame or body (either will do). Next, remove both ABS sensor wires at the inner fender splash shield. Now pull the power steering cooler out, don't just take the lines off !! Trust me, I bent the PI$$ out of the 1st one of these I did. Next, pull your lower radiator hose and trans lines from radiator. Pull the radiator out. Remove the two nuts (18mm) holding body to frame. Remove both batteries and CAC tubes. Remove air filter and LH battery tray. You will need to remove the nut on the positive battery cable to separate an individual wire on both batteries. Remove the positive cables and set aside. On RH engine compartment, remove the ground close to the battery. Next remove the 1 wire connector (quick connect) here and then remove the vacuum hose to 4WD (if equipped). Move on to pulling the nut off the accumulator and remove the AC hose. Then pull the top AC hose from the condenser. (Compressor to condenser) Remove the MAP hose off the intake and then pull the heater hose ( RH side near alternator) and set both aside. Move to LH side of engine compartment, and disconnect the gray connector on frame rail close to the CAC. Take the 3 lines off at the ABS HCU and set aside. Remove the 2 harnesses to the right on the PCM. I removed all 3 but only 2 on the right is necessary. There are two other connectors on that harness that have to be disconnected as well. Next you will see a row of 5 connectors. Disconnect the one closest to the front. There is a relay/fuse block that needs to be removed also. Take a screwdriver and depress the tab and it comes right off. There are 3 other connectors in the rear of the engine compartment LH side that need to be disconnected also. Just follow the wiring harnesses from frame and see where they lead. Remove the Hydro boost lines and then the reservoir line that runs to pump. Remove degas bottle and then disconnect LH side heater hose. Position all wiring that goes up with cab clear of the engine. You may want to get somebody (or 2) to spot while someone actuates the lift. If anything goes to snagging, it is better that someone can yell HO!!!! Instead of trying to do it all yourself and screw up some stuff. Carry on with the procedure in the manual for the head gasket job or engine removal. A couple of tips I learned on these 6.0L Stupid Duty's is that it is easier to pull the harness from driver side & work your way to the passenger side, until you get to the point of disconnecting the AC compressor connector or the CKP sensor. The CKP sensor connector is hell to get to even with the body off, so don't fool with it, it isn't't necessary. Just set the bulk of the harness aside. Another tip. Before you pull 6.0L heads off, remove the 2 drain plugs to drain the coolant out, remove starter to get to the right one.

Right what a PMD??? I'm a Ford guy

Just to make most of you Jealous I'm a level 1 dealer Nah Nah /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rockon.gif I as a rule hate calling hot line, you tell them that you did this test and that test and got this result and replaced the (name of part) per the WSM but it still has the same concern and you can almost hear the crickets chirping............

If you find the top broken off/blown apart on the injectors I would pull the sending unit out and take a look see into the tank and change the fuel filters I'll bet it got filled with some nasty stuff..

Brad you live way way to far north to use the word "ya'll" without being thrown a beating /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/boxing.gif, even if your trying to tease a TAR HEEL /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/poke.gif

I'm with Keith on this, when they build truck/vans the engine's assembled without the truck then the body goes on after the engine is in the chassis, If I need to do major repair work I will do it the same way Quote: Took a body off an Expedition once and hated every minute of it, could of done the engine repair much quicker in chassis in that specific case. I wouldn't take an expedition body off for much as most anything can be done with it on, but heads on a 32 valve Navigator

I can't count how many taurus's and sables came off the truck with the check engine light p0401 of back in 01-02

I have a Pelican M10 flash light is uses 4 C battery's the warranty is as follows.. YOU BREAK IT WE'LL REPLACE IT FOREVER. All Pelican™ products are of course covered by the Pelican Unconditional Lifetime Guarantee of Excellence. This guarantee is void only if the Pelican™ product has been abused beyond normal and sensible wear and tear. The guarantee does not cover shark bite, bear attack and children under five.

YES it will roll in park.. it's funny the guys in the stalls on both sides of me have awd explorers that within a week blew apart the CV end of the front shaft,the immediate solution was to yank the shaft and order parts, one woke to find his had rolled and was bumper to bumper with the school bus his wife drives and the other was roused from his slumber by the police knocking at the door asking why his explorer was parked in the middle of the road. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/surprise.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rofl.gif

I'm also a teps dealer and for the most part we don't dig to deep but I have done c-7 injectors, a rocker arm on a 3126, a bunch of HP oil pump check valves a while back. I guess it really depends on your teps manager for how far they will let you go, if he/she feels confident that a given tech can successfully repair a problem they may let you go deeper than the prescribed limits.

burn the nuts off with the flame wrench (a little finesse needed here) and use a roller type stud remover to extract the remains of the studs you cut and a left hand drill bit/EZ out and more finesse for the one or two that broke flush. replace with new stainless studs and nuts and of course gaskets. then order a new EGR tube and a set of studs for the L/S cause it's gonna go soon after.... I did my own 97 F-150 R/S 4 months ago and just did the L/S two weeks ago.

/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rofl.gif I recently had a similar situation, the customer came in complaining about his "Automatic transmission is making a grinding noise". I went with him on a road test to verify his grinding and told him that it's not his trans it's his 4" exhaust hitting the floor. he says can't be cause it's not all the time ,the best mechanic in the world put the exhaust on,he's had diesel trucks for 200 years and never had this before, ect....... it gotta be the trans. I pulled the truck in and adjusted the exhaust and retested all fine. The SM let the customer verify that it was fixed and we haven't seen him since.. somebody once said "If you loan someone $20 and never see them again, it was probably worth it"

well at least you got paid the CP labor to fix it the first time, after you get the Warranty labor to SPW it you may break even.... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rofl.gif

I use IRFANVIEW it's free and easy to use you can save the screen shot as any type file you want and upload it to the photo post provided by Keith for viewing in a post. http://www.irfanview.com/

That there Vans one of them yeller bastards, the fuel color rules don't apply to them. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif I got a fitting from Steve and (I'm gonna hate myself for this) haven't had the chance to use it. I hadn't thought out how to hook it up yet, I like that set up but I'll have to see what the PSI rating is of that hose is, I'd be real unhappy with a cab, face, or lap full of diesel. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cover.gif

I say you call the warranty line and see if you can get approval for the additional time to install a heilcoil thread repair. If Ford says ok fix it on there dime and maybe gain a customer, if Ford won't approve it ask the customer if he would like to pay the parts and labor to...... A- have a heliciol installed to complete the repair. B- have the front cover replaced. C- Ignore the recall and take his truck without his free CMP. Chances are depending on the year of the truck it quite possibly has had two or more sensors installed so the question can be asked who really stripped the threads?? If that sensor wasn't a peice of crap to start with nobody would have needed to touch it in the past. How many times do you expect the threads in an aluminum cover to last??