eastendpowerstroke

Just my own truck because I could, and one customer truck with a clogged oil cooler per the TSB

Look's kinda cool

Be real careful if you replace the caps the new ones are shit. I just replaced a cooler and the front cap because of an external oil leak. GUESS WHAT I HAD NEXT WEEK???????? Thats right oil in the coolant. My parts guy ordered 4 front caps and I had to use the best of the worst.the photo can't show how rough the casting realy is right where the oring sits.(edit) BTW that cap is brand new it was only on the truck for 4 days

YES EXACTLY

Ok this gives me an idea for a poll How many of you guys have a shop wheel barrow?????

I haven't seen any bad remaned injectors either but I have priced Remaned Ford injectors vs BRAND NEW Aliants and from the price list I got from another member here, the Aliants cost far less and have a better warranty. Hard to argue!

put 1,000 lbs (453.5924 k) or more in the back of the truck and the mileage will get better. One of my customers had to use his personal truck to move his smallish backhoe back and forth to a job for a week, his mileage went up from around 10 mpg to 19-22 mpg.

Price it a factor but not to the extent that I'll risk doing the job twice or more just to save a buck. Aliants are looking hard to beat.

BARS LEAK!!!!!!!

Thanks Larry, It's not my personal truck but it might as well be as VERY VERY few people have ever put a wrench to it besides myself. Price is kinda important on this one so I'm shopping out the best solution while I still have time.

So far Strong support for Alliant's The trucks a 2001 If I'm reading correctly I would need 7- AP60803AD 1- AP60803AE (#8 cackle) I also found this Pensacola Diesel kit, hard to argue with the kit price but I have no experience with them. any input on this company?

If you were going to replace a full set of injectors(8) on a 400K mile 7.3L what brand would you go with? Ford remans or Aliant (sp?) has been tossed around a bit but tell me what you think. If it was your truck what would you do.

Photo as promised better late than never. I forgot the quick link disappeared and was replaced by a bolt but it works just the same.

I got a rig made of three lengths of chain tied together with a quick link I bolt it to the three lift points and use the arm of the lift to pick it straight up then just push the car forward. I'll try to remember to snap a pic of it tomorrow. I tried to use our cherry picker/engine crane once but the huge ass fucking Rotunda thing we have doesn't fit under the open hatch unless you lift the car up

Throw the box with the jumper in the trash and re flash it. It's so easy to just take the Battery out and not have to jackass around trying to fight the bolts out of the side, I don't see any time savings?

Because I have the opportunity to go to work at a shop (not a dealer) that specializes in Mustang Performance work, Some heads up pic could sway my decision real easy!!!! Ask Brad why I would want to leave the shop I've been at for 10 years.

<----- Bruce's soap box

Do you have a known good IDM?

Bed plate gaskets, roller lifters,and lower radiator hoses.Also the labor times should read 0.7 to 7.0 hours less than it will actually take you to do all repairs.

I'll look to see if I have mine tomorow. If I do I'll let you know.

A few years ago I had two E-450 box vans 7.3L's from the same moving company towed in two days apart both for a crank no start. I chased the problem around on the first truck for hours, no codes seemed to have everything it needed to start but wouldn't. I had the Ah Ha moment when I tried to monitor some pids with NGS because another tech was using the WDS at the time, when cranking the NGS would shut off. Long story short the vans had the setup with one Battery under the hood and one on the frame rail with the big brass nut connecting the battery cables together under the hood. when cranking the B+ would drop to about 8v just enough to shut the pcm off and not start because the big brass nut was a little loose so it was only cranking on the under hood batt. I don't know how long I would have chased that problem if I hadn't had to use the NGS.

Yeah with the trans out it's almost as easy as doing a Ypipe on a E-van. In a perfect world just pulling the turbo would certainly be faster, but rarely is it perfect. All it takes is on bolt to give you a hard time and spending the hour or so to yank the trans pays off BIG TIME! this is assuming that your shop has a trans jack capable of holding the trans and transfer case in one peice. I've done it both ways, I pull the trans. If you try it once you'll come over to the dark side.

hey Thanks buddy! Ya Know you can have him back we won't miss him a bit.

Just checking in Brandon, how did you make out with the Y pipe? Did you Opt to pull the turbo or the trans?

I saw that in the TSB also and asked the new P&S director to order them. I'll see if I get them