Buddy_M

I'll go with 450,000miles.. a very very hard driven 450,000 miles..

OK guys, just want someone to tell me if I'm thinkin right. This customer has 2 trucks, one is a 2006 F550 the others a 2007 F550. Both trucks are identical type chassis', and same utility beds. The 2007 has a complaint of low power for about the past month. An EGR delete had been installed so the EGR system is not at fault. Going thru the performance diag sheet, everything is checking out, no codes being set. Heres a few of the pids I have monitored, ECT 167, EOT 214(yes an oil cooler has been recommended), FICM_L,V,M 13/13/48, fuelpw 1.1ms, EBP 28psi, no change in power with exhaust disconnected either. ICP at hot idle, .87V 576psi, ICP_DES 580, IPR 23. To compare, both trucks, all pids read identical except for MFDES. The good truck for comparison was reading approx 10, and the truck with the complaint is reading 12-14. This is making me think injectors are not spraying correctly or delivering an adequate supply of fuel, because there is also white smoke and a rough idle issue with this truck, and just wanting some extra input before recommending a full set of injectors, or even trying one bank of injectors to see if it helps then proceed with the other side if it does help correct the complaint.

Got lucky and had an IDS 55 dvd still around(Yea, just a little outdated compared to V75), installed it and it did install an older version of the VCM software and allowed me to use it once again. I don't see any 6.4 or 6.7 being out of the dealership now, just mostly 6.0 and 7.3 engines. Only scan tools I have are the OTC Genisys, and the IDS software, and I usually grab the OTC first for most vehicles, and depending what is going on may grab the IDS as needed.

Really wish I would have remembered this topic about an hour ago. My personal VCM just locked up, purchased a new computer and not thinking just downloaded the newest version V75 from online, and went to hook up to my car, it updated VCM, then proceeded to tell me it couldn't proceed because the VCM sub is long expired. Does anyone know if I can unlock the VCM to continue just diagnostic functions by trying to find an old IDS cd and going way back,last version I had in my old computer was V58 IIRC. Or am I gonna be stuck paying for a subscription to unlock it and get it usable again.

24mm

Needs to go quick? Unplug the sensor and tie it to the side.. Just have to make sure the driver pays attention to temp gauge and check coolant daily just in case. Unplugging the sensor will bypass the shutdown and allow for it to run, have had to do that on several trucks at times because of failed sensors, the 4 pin sensors must have a shorting plug to bypass them. What is the code that comes up? My HD Truck book is at the shop, but can get it tomorrow and get you whatever information is available in it for your code.

OK, long story made short, I'm replacing the engine in my early production 99 that has all 8 AB code injectors, with an engine I located out of a 01 with the AD/AE injectors. Does anyone know if it will run properly with the 99 PCM and late model injectors? Or would I have to swap all the injectors out and keep my AB codes with the existing PCM?

Kenworth T800 that blew interaxle driveline breaking airlines this evening that I just got home rescuing them off the side of the road, then after removing driveline proceeded to blow the power divider while driving home.. 07 Pete 379 to install a blower and PTO and fab all hard lines/brackets.. Pete 379 with a broken condensor and about 12 other HD trucks to look at the A/C systems and repair/recharge as necesary for a fleet.. Volvo with Detriot 60 series no start.. 7.3 with cracked injector cups.. a 6.0 needing 2 injectors.. GMC Yukon with a blown rear ring gear carrier and damaged R&P.. and another truck that needs a new 7.3.. Nothing like running 12-15 hour days lately to try and catch up, vacations sounding pretty damn good in a few weeks.

Yes, International uses a heavy duty extended life coolant, with the general Cat EC-1 spec. I personally have changed 6.0's back over to conventional green low silicate coolant, but need to remember to change maintainance habits to imclude monitoring and maintaining proper SCA levels with the test strips, and also to the new ELC's. EC-1, (I just refer to it as EC-1 usually, since most HD coolants all refer to the most recognizable Cat spec on the label as well as the ASTM and TMC spec number) is safe with copper, brass, aluminum, stainless, cast, steel, and plastic. All those metals are in use in heavy duty engines, as well as light duty, so I dont see any reason the EC-1 cannot be used in LD vehicles. For several fleets I service, it helps them because it is one less kind of antifreeze they need to keep on hand. From back in college and working parts through college, I was taught high silicate antifreeze in a diesel cooling system was bad, as it would cavitate wet liners easier, not as big of an issue in the LD engines at least, but HD engines were at risk for them. I remember in-framing Cummins 855 Big Cam's and the cavitation on the liners, usually on the side facing towards the exhaust which would pit first. From what I have read thru Valvoline, regarding the gold G-05 coolant, and Cat regarding the EC-1, and other coolant information sources. The nitrite and moly are primarily for the iron part protection, and the silicates are for aluminum/soft metal protection, but can drop out over time and reportedly cause problems. There are other chemicals that were then added to make up for the protection of the soft metals, but without the solids that can drop out over time and cause potential problems. Just as a side note regarding the cavitation issue, I have often thought of mentioning changing the coolant type when there has been issues with recurring cavitation issues with some 6.0/6.4 front covers that I have read on here, but have hesitated due to the controversy that this can generate sometimes. Theres more than enough information out there available thru lab test data, MSDS sheets, sales brochures, and stories from people who have ran different coolants ranging from the random guy on the street who puts on a few thousand miles/year to the big fleets that run dozens of trucks with hundreds of thousands of miles accumulated per year. All one can do is research whats out there, and make an informed decision, keeping in mind initial fill requirements as well as the maintainance requirements of any specific coolant used in an application.

With how the weather has been so screwed up this year, between the cold winter and record breaking snow, and the excessive rain this spring, and the flooding now going on thats breaking records set in 1912, just leaves me wondering what this summer is gonna bring for us. I know the farmers and much of the oilfield around here is disliking the weather very much so. Heres what the farmers are going thru this year. This was just on sunday I got this picture from a farmer I know. They got the sprayer stuck, then got the quad trac stuck, then the other one stuck. Makes for a very bad day.

I've installed many of the Fumoto's, usually on the medium/heavy duty trucks that I work on doing service work. I have started to lean away from the Fumoto however, and have found another company, Femco No Spill System. They cannot be tampered with, so noone can easily drain the oil without the drain hose, and the Femco also has a magnet on the backside that will hold any ferrous metal in the pan unlike the Fumoto if you wish to remove and inspect it periodically. It also comes with a nice dust cap to keep debris out so there is no cleaning out the handle slot and drain. This truck is one I regularly maintain that uses Femco on hydraulic and both engines. Mercedes for the front engine, Cat on the drill, and a 152 gallon hydraulic reservoir that is changed every spring & fall with different grades for the weather.

I just had the pleasure of installing one of Dorman's EGR coolers. It is a similar kit to OEM, as it comes with all the same gaskets/seals/hose and was about half the price of an OEM, however it had 2 downsides that I didn't like but wasn't too big of an issue. I had trouble getting the blue hose to snap onto the oil cooler housing, and the tube off the EGR cooler was welded too high, so I had to bend it down about 3/8-1/2" to line up correctly.

Reminds me earlier this winter, except it was gelled #2 Diesel in a 6.4L and a Freightliner(Dont ask me where they found the #2 at this time of year) Instructed by the customers to dump the old fuel and fill with fresh #1, and they didn't want to see the old stuff ever again, keep it and do whatever. So needless to say, a little over 200 gallons of clean #2 is sitting in sealed drums in the back of the shop waiting for warmer weather to burn in my truck

As for the threadlock, I can't ever see a need to threadlock lugnuts on a vehicle. Each chemical has its own place where I use them on a vehicle during certain repairs, and loctite on lugnuts is definately one I have never done, or seen.. Or even heard of until now. lol

Now on light duty, depending on vehicle use, I will either keep them at clean dry threads, or apply a little antizeize. The main factor is what conditions it will see. If it is a small car, I have never had an issue removing wheels and rarely use antiseize. Any of the 3/4-1ton trucks with hub piloted wheels(Ford/Chevy/Dodge/etc) and the HD trucks with Budd or hub-pilots will get a coat of antiseize to the hub, and the threads too usually to prevent seizing and ease future removal. I acually keep a aerosol can of antiseize around just to spray hubs when reinstalling wheels. I started using antiseize in college 7 years ago from high recommendations from the instructors, and have yet to have a wheel come loose or break a stud from over/under tightening, and it definately helps removal, especially if you live anywhere salt is on the roads in the winter or in the air.

This morning, I had some time to look at it, and dropped the valve body and air tested. Low/Reverse, Direct, and another clutch assembly(Don't remember which one off the top of my head) have a terrible leak coming from them. No significant debris in the pan, but it certainly looks like it will be coming apart now.

Jim, I had cleared codes and test drove it, however I didn't monitor any of the pids you listed, however, it still had the harsh reverse and no OD. This same truck about 3 weeks prior I had put in a new transfer case because they got stuck and blew the transfer case into 2 pieces, and test driving after installing the new transfer case indicated no transmission problems at that time. I should have some time tomorrow to check what you listed and get a better idea of the failure, and this is a retail repair being way over mileage from travelling from Texas to ND multiple times and being oilfield related. If it needs to be opened up, which it most likely will from how its looking, they want to know what the cause of failure was before deciding on how to proceed. The hard part for them is they want all repairs cost capped at no more than 1500(except in certain circumstances), except for certain priority vehicles, and this kind of repair will certainly be more than that, so we'll have to see how far they want to take this.

OK guys.. I am not a transmission tech by any means, and finally opened my first transmissions (99 4R100) about a month ago out of my own trucks to overhaul them. Since then, I have a company that I have done some other maintainence for brought in a truck and asked me to check it out. They got it stuck in the snow and tried to rock it out, after that, there is no OD and reverse is harsh when it finally engages around 1500-2000rpm. I get a code 0766 and 2703, direct clutch faults. I also had hooked up my pressure gauge to check line pressure, in idle all pressures were close to the spec listed in the service manual. I then checked line pressure at stall, and all pressures were high, and after then shifting back to park/neutral, line pressure would then jump to about 280 and remain there until I shift back into any gear and it would drop to the idle spec. I am thinking a regulator valve or solenoid issue, and possibly a clutch pack issue for the harsh engagement? This is now the 3rd transmission I have ever had to diag and my first 5R110, and am just looking for some kind of insight on issues they have. I am leaning towards pulling the transmission to look at the direct clutch and want to know if I am on the right track or if I'm just confusing myself into thinking the wrong thing.

In college, the instructor had an old 8V-92 that he would make us run the rack, and of course he would tamper with it to make it runaway on someone to keep us on our toes to kill it quick... My first shop out of college, I was working on another 8V-92 and had it damn near runaway on me, ended up grabbing a 36" pipe wrench nearby and knocking the secondary fuel filter off breaking the fuel lines to kill that one. And of course, back in college again, the instructor also loved to wire the Cummins PT pumps WOT with the solenoid screw turned out so we couldn't kill it with the keyswitch, or he would stand next to the engine and hold the throttles open while the students would start them to scare them into thinking runaway engines..

Last winter, had a new coworker heating up a gantry lift cylinder on a Link-Belt LS138HII crane due to the hydraulic oil being so thick(so he thought in the field) that it wouldn't raise the gantry. They continued to heat the cylinder until the rod and cap blew out of the housing and covered the crane rigger in hot hydraulic oil. His coveralls protected most of his body, however his face and eyes were not protected and fortunately he suffered only minor burns from that incident.

To add a little bit more, I just googled it, and I'm now quite sure Larry can get it, his fanclutch.com site was one of them that it came up with, and I've seen a few of the installs that people have done over on the other sites, and it seems to work out alright after changing the factory high pressure switch to a binary switch for A/C control.

I remember looking quite a few years ago at converting to the Horton retrofit to the EC450 clutch. That kit appeared to me that it should move sufficient air, and also lose the drag a viscous clutch still allows with the fan when the airflow is not needed. The International number for the kit is/was ZBH996124 and was around 300-400 for a new fan, clutch, and some wiring. Larry may be able to get the kit similar possibly? I recall checking and the fan blade diameter would clear in the stock shroud, and it would thread on the existing water pump IIRC. However, that was designed around the IH cast iron water pump, not the Ford aluminum water pump, so I am unsure if it would reliably support the additional weight of the EC450 unit without damaging the Ford casting down the road. Horton tech support couldn't answer that question for me either when I talked to them a few years ago about it. Also keep in mind thats for the IH trucks with that kind of control capability in the ECM, so you would have to sit down, figure out how to wire it in with relays if needed, coolant temp switch(with manual fan control too?), as well as a binary or trinary switch for the A/C fan operation.

It shouldn't hurt to deadhead the pump, since that is how heads are isolated and the pump isolated with the block off tools to check for ICP leaks. There is a pressure relief valve located in the pump so no damage should occur to it, and IIRC, it pops off in the 3000-3500psi range when I have deadheaded pumps. With where the IPR is bouncing around so high at have you checked base oil pressure to confirm the HPOP isn't starving and ramping up IPR to maintain oil pressure? Buddy

I only have knowledge on the first one, whenever I had a boot break off and stick on the plug, I found it easiest to go in with a screwdriver or small pry bar, and break the upper part of the porcelain and boot off and then pull that part out, then blow out the plug bore again, and then remove the lower part of the plug and retrieve it with a magnet if you dont have a magnetic plug socket. Buddy

Deadheading the pump, and isolating and pressuring up each bank pressured up to and held 3800psi. This afternoon, I replaced the HPOP & IPR for shits & grins since I had an extra engine, and it runs & drives fine now, IPR is back down to where it should be and there are no other problems. Maybe someday when I get bored I'll tear the old HPOP apart and see if I can see a problem with it that caused my headache. Buddy