KHFord

Awesome, thank you! I will give it a go when it comes back.

Hello I am trying to find some instructions on how to install/activate elevated idle control. This is a fire rescue van with a patient compartment on the back, would like to get some increased airflow through the rad/condenser when they are parked/idling on these hot days. Looks like there should be a way to wire up a switch to the pto wires but I can not find instructions. Any one able to point me in the right direction?

Out of desperation I replaced #8 fuel injector since it is the cylinder that set the code and no surprise it did not fix anything. The line to the injector is getting fuel but i cracked the injector supply line with the engine running and there is barely a trickle of fuel leaking out. So the FRP sensor is on bank 1, which is working fine and that is why it passed the high pressure fuel test. I then cracked the line coming into the rail and had lots of fuel spray. I have removed the rail, no debris inside but the fuel feed port is plugged. It looks like there is an orifice in there that has shifted and is now blocking the passage.

#2)380, #4)400, #6)400, #8)380. Valve cover is off, can hear the injectors all buzz on self test, injector resistances are within spec, all circuits between injectors and pcm are good, valve train is all good.

08 f350, deleted, got towed in last night. Check engine light on with p0284 #8 low contribution. Monitor power balance and all cylinders on bank 2 are missing, injector kill on those cylinders make no change in rpm. Relative compression all 0%, no exhaust smoke, Injector electrical test passes, high pressure fuel test passes, no metal in fuel bowl, will not complete a KOER self test, wiggle test on harness makes no change. Any one run into this or have some thoughts? My 6.4 experience is very limited, could there be a fuel return issue? It seems electrical to me even though the buzz test passes. Thinking I will pull valve cover and test all injector circuits next but would like some other opinions.

I had one similar to this about 2 years ago, it was a fire rescue unit, I had to do 3 turbos before I got a good one. I ended up cracking them open and the unison ring was warped in the first 2 reman replacement turbo's if I remember correctly. Sounds the same though, I remember having to get it fully warmed up before it would act up.

I had a brief attempt with the tap but I was too scared of cutting too deep. They where packed in way tighter than any others I've had to deal with.

Pretty sure somebody reused the washers on this truck, they supposedly have only been in there for 30,00km. Once I got them out you can see where they leaked. Went at it with a borescope and pick to clean around the washers, then was able to break them free. Probably why those 2 injectors got stuck so bad. The 3.5 brush ended up working pretty good for cleaning.

Hello, does any one have any tips on pulling out stuck injector copper washers? I had 2 injectors stuck, had to slide hammer them out but now the copper washers are stuck in the bore. I've made a little hook out of a coat hanger to try to lift it up but it is moving. Also does any one have suggestions for cleaning the injector bore, the shop manual does not show a brush, the 3.5 gtdi brush is close but not quite long enough.