Keith Browning

Well there ya go! Can you tell what is plugging the cooler?

I had the same thought and I have several customers with similar trucks where OASIS shows them a pick-ups. OASIS shows this particular truck as a Cab and Chassis. Incidentally, all new F250/F350 single rear wheel trucks come with Roll Stability as standard.

We have a 2011 F350 SRW with a utility body that is equipped with Roll Stability that activates on certain off ramps on the highway. The customer has complained about this from day one but we had no luck verifying it until recently when the owner had damaged a tire and replaced two tires as a result. He installed a different brand and the tire circumference was different than the remaining two original tires. This aggravated the condition. After replacing the tires the concern improved but still is present. After having the tech make some recordings we determined it was the Roll Stability and not ABS as the customer had described. The Hot-Line believes that the utility body is affecting the center of gravity and thus causing the false Roll Stability activity. Now, wouldn't you think that Ford would foresee that building an incomplete vehicle with RSC would lead to something like this with no way of predicting exactly what body or load is going to be on the back of such a truck?

A great place to start would be a transmission fluid cooler flow test to verify fluid is circulating in the cooler in the first place. Make sure you have no fault codes that would indicate an internal trans concern. I also read somewhere that the wrong fluid type could cause overheating. Check the service history for recent repairs and the possibility that someone might have filled it with something other than Mercon LV.

Is it a matter of a good attitude or what you are willing to put up with or there is nothing else out there for you that is worth jumping at? I have put up with more shit... declining business... absent owners... lack of management, childish asshole co-workers, lack of professional behavior... pay cuts... being told "you suck" and "you are over paid" as a group... watching people you have worked with for years leave... constantly hearing how un-happy people are... enduring a dealer sale... I like what I do. I am still putting food on my family's table. My children are healthy and happy and even when I go home frustrated (which is often) I still have my pride. Having a bad attitude serves no purpose. I guess what I am trying to to say is that things are never so bad as they can't get worse so why make it worse?

What you need to do... if you have not already... is remove the pump and recover all of the major pieces. Go to the PTS website and open a vehicle session and click on the "Service Tips" tab and under Job Aides click on "Revised 6.4L Water in Fuel/Non-Warrantable Fuel System Repair." job aid. Inspect the pump as instructed. The results will guide you. You can be an advocate for your customer and for Ford by following the guidelines and be fair to both parties. If there is signs of water damage then the repair is not warrantable... and if no evidence is found then you and the customer have a reason to dispute Ford's decision. I tend to agree with Ford on this but it is not outside the realm of possibility that the pump failed for other reasons. Point is, we want to be sure before making such decisions, right?

We briefly discussed his here ---> http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=27662#Post27662

You can keep the manure... I have enough bullshit around here already!

Well YOU brought it up! Sayyyy! That's a nifty lookin fire engine you have there sport!

Well on Friday I was handed a binder with something like 38 CD's in it with two or more courses on each. I have begun the Basic Electrical, then on to the INSITE training then two mid-range engines. Whoopie! And Alex? Would you change that God damn avatar already!

The CVT doesn't bother me and my wife does not drive the car hard at all. We saw a few go bad in the beginning but in the last few years I have seen none come through the shop. I was under the impression that production was limited due to poor sales - people didn't like them. I actually like them for the most part but I admit the car seems a little sluggish off the line when you get on it. Once moving that thing takes off when you nail it though. I will be weighing my options in the near future. For now the Explorer has to get me back and forth to work and home. I can get a Fiesta or even a Focus for under $20K. If I can catch some kinda rebates/incentives on top of D-Plan I would rather go new. I like driving a larger vehicle but at this point in my life a small car that gets good gas mileage fits just fine for commuting.

Really? Okay, I'll ask... why?

I read a lot that the "thing to do" is to remove the valve completely.

What a great week for me! The exhaust manifold leak on my 2001 Explorer went to full volume this week as I was flying up a hill on Tuesday. I knew it had to be addressed sooner or later but it was such a "small" leak for a while and thought I would get to it when I had time. Thursday I got to it and installed the $8 gasket. The first time I stuck my big hairy meat hook in to grab the bolt I had just loosened the inlet on the evaporator core burst right at the bracket that secures it to the evaporator case. refrigerant oil everyfrickenwhere! Now I have to fix THAT when I have the time and the money. But hey, at least the truck is quiet right? Tonight, Friday, I am half way home from work and going down hill about 45 MPH. I step on the brake and the pedal goes to the floor... Needless to say I am now walking. Fuck me!

I am much happier with this! (I finally got more used to the "global symptom code format" but I honestly do not feel it improved much.)

Is that like front ball joints... or rear tail lights... or a front rear-end?

A failed pump would probably not give you an erratic reading like that unless the reading you describe is fast and consistent. Typically the early pumps will develop a crack in the rotating cylinder and just give you low pressure. I am not dsagreeing with you though... If you make a data recording and zoom in on the ICP voltage you can usually see a pattern. I have an example or two you can see if you wish. With pressure readings as high as you report any pattern should be easy to see. Have you done any air testing?

Actually not many. If I see a broken manifold bolt on one it more than likely has rusted to the point of breaking or snapped trying to remove it.

Cought a 1993 F800 with a tandem tow hook today. The 7.8L Ford New Holland engine won t start. Wow, it has been a LOOOOOOONG time since I have seen one of these!!!

I live in my own little world, but it's OK they know me here

Thank you Mr.A. I was thinking it was something like that... but then I thought we still see broken bolts on the diesels too!

I was asked a question that I don't know the answer to nor can I find one. What is the reason for/purpose for using spacers on exhaust manifold bolts?