Keith Browning

What gets me is that wouldn't you think Ford Motor Company would want to ENCOURAGE the use of idle timers for emissions purposes? So why disable the ability to turn it on? If the idle timer can be turned off on a green state vehicle then what is the logic here?

Need to be careful on those. Removing the banjo bolts at the fuel cooler and inspecting them and the lines will show corrosion if water is an issue. Reason being is that once you have the cab off and access the pump only to discover it is no longer a warrantyable repair...

I have yet to need this. But if I did I would probably go for Bruce's version of the tool. unless these things start dropping like flies at nine or ten years of age. He he, nipples. <giggle>

I have shut two off for our fleet division. I would think that if it shows up on the menu there would be an enable selection. I know you are not stupid so I will take your word for it. I recall there being a regulation about this feature on trucks over a certain GVW. Maybe that is the issue? What size truck is this?

I don't do them in chassis but I have worked along side a few guys that do. Almost half I would guess have problems with leaks afterward. Okay, I admit to having done one. It was in 1995 on a new truck that apparently wasn't sealed correctly during assembly. Some guys argue that many of these trucks are aging and there is a lot that go wrong due to corrosion and in chassis means disturbing fewer fasteners, exhaust parts, fuel lines and such that often seize or break. The counter argument for that is, engine out is the time address many of these items. Some customers will agree and take advantage of that notion and others will be angered by the potential for spending a lot of money they hadn't planned on. Food for thought.

Oh the humanity! I am surprised there was room to do that. With all the extra room on the sides of the block I wonder if it would make sense to mount a pump under the head where the lines would be un-obstructed and run a short shaft to a pulley and clutch at the FEAD belt.

Glad to hear you got it!

No mis-understaning here. I have seen the train-like puffing of smoke and gasses from the oil fill pipe!

Trains are fun to play with but I think I would rather perform a crankcase pressure test when verifying the condition of an expensive diesel engine.

I just completed a 6.7L that had water dumped into the fuel tank by vandals. Like water, DEF contamination is treated similarly as far as the repairs required. You will be replacing the entire fuel system and dropping the fuel tank to clean it. Mine was an insurance job and paid about 20 hours. With parts the bill came to about $8900

Puller, EGR Valve #303-1267A USD $476.48 https://rotunda.spx.com/en-US/Pages/ItemDetail.aspx?itemID=16377

Chris I definitely believe you are correct on that point. Over the last decade we have learned a lot about what works in the light duty diesel segment and what does not work. I would definitely say a lot has been learned and applied to the Ford diesel. I am sure that the 6.7L can still develop it's own problems and time will tell.

Well I don't think that any dealership regardless of the manufacturer should be selling aftermarket parts. One of the selling points for a dealership service department is that we offer genuine OEM parts for service and repairs installed by genuine factory trained technicians. If the genuine parts cost a little more BECAUSE they are supposedly the best for vehicles then so be it but some prices defy explanation. What is more surprising is the vast differences from dealer to dealer for the same part. When truck owners can go to a Navistar dealer and pay a lot less for the same hardware it looks bad. When truck owners can go to Wal-Mart and get oil and fuel filters for less than the dealer is buying them for, something stinks.

I just read a post at the Monkey House that hit home and I agree with the guy. Quote: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I have been very loyal to Ford but lately the pricing for their parts is really bothering me: Fuel Filter Dealer $99.00-Advanced Auto $46.00 If Advanced Auto can charge $46.00 and still make a profit, what Ford is charging should be illegal. Ford heater block cord $99.89, needs to be ordered International heater block cord in stock $26.52 out the door and in stock. Am I wrong for complaining and spending my money elsewhere? This is why a new Diesel is priced @ $62,000.00, I don't think I will ever purchase a new truck again @ these prices. When I price parts out for a quote I sometimes choke when I hear the price. There are a lot of items I know my (old) dealer were unnecessarily high - so much so that it is not uncommon to lose a job due to the price. And I mean compared to other Ford dealers around us, not just the parts stores. I realize some people are not comparing OEM to OEM parts (aftermarket) but in all honesty, why the hell does a fuel filter cost $100? And its a CARTRIDGE no less! I hate the term stealership but I get it why some people use the term.

I will admit that I am definitely biased. I HATE the 6.4L. They SUCK to work on and when things go wrong, they really go wrong and the labor times suck too. EVERY time I work on one I take it up the ass. The only upside here is the PCM programming Ford has put in place to detect small problems before a catastrophic failure occurs. As for comparing the 6.4L with the 7.3L I don't know how you can do that as the the 7.3L was in production more than twice as long as the 6.4L was AND I personally recall replacing only one 7.3L due to catastrophic failure compared to over half a dozen or so 6.4L engines that either melted down or grenaded. But since we don't have access to the numbers, "we" can only go by what "we" see and experience. As much reverence as I hold for the 7.3L the Ford 6.7L for me has proven even less troublesome OUT OF THE BOX. Not only am I impressed but I am shocked as it is a totally new engine from a manufacturer with no experience building diesel engines in North America.

God dammit Alex! That Bill Hewet avatar is friggin scary!

As a service adviser I recommend that you spend more time in the shop when you can and look at what the techs are doing. Look at the parts and assemblies. Ask questions. Doing that will give you better product and technical knowledge that will help you do your job and make you a better adviser. Point being, there are no bands in a Torqshift transmission. You might also consider taking some of the web based courses that we take. Knowledge is power!

I did not. What's the message?

I have seen a few bad ones but this one made a mess and a half! Another dealer installed a CRHA about 450 miles ago. Customer states he heard a loud noise and the engine stalled. Would start but smoked really bad then wouldn't run. Shaft in the turbo is seized and split into two. I never saw oil back up into the manifolds and fill the EGR cooler. I drained 4+ quarts out of the charge air cooler before cleaning it. There appeared to be about another four quarts on my shop floor that slowly dripped from the exhaust.

Not always

Bruce has posted on this several times:

The fuel injector return collars were a big problem on those engines. The o-rings and the hoses and clamps particularly. Also check the rubber seals in the fuel line going from the fuel filter to the injection pump... additionally check the lift pump and the hoses there.

Of course I took a fuel sample. Truck started perfectly - temp was 30 degrees this morning. It's getting a new seat belt buckle then released. I have done all I can do for now. Thanx to the ideas fellas.

It does sound like a fuel problem... step into the WAYBAC machine to the 7.3L idi days and it is similar. But I would expect consistency. And when I mentioned "cold" I meant dipping below 40 but we haven't had any freezing weather where fuel is going to gel. The temps are going to dip again here today so perhaps it will act up again. Listening out loud here!