Keith Browning

I did the same Tony - the pipe was large enough to cover the injector bore and I welded a washer on one end that the threaded rod goes through topped with a nearing and a nut. Thread the remover into the cup, spin in the rod and place the tube over it all and wrench until the sleeve pulls out. I'll post a pic too when I get it out.

After doing more of these it was discovered that this is normal.

I find it interesting that using a straight edge has become a forgotten skill.

Is there a fix for poor quality? We have an Escape in for coolant loss that had a bad block. Okay, it got a NEW short block and when it was assembled and running started dripping oil from the rear of the engine from the head gasket... off comes the head and wow. A straight edge revealed the fire deck was low in one of the corners.

These look like decent tools - Autel was mentioned in a TPMS topic... Autel

We used to be able to change the tire pressure specs in the BCM. I think that disappeared years ago along with changing tire size by RPM.

Due to the cancellation of this engine in American production vehicles this forum is scheduled for deletion. All posts already made have been moved to the General Diesel Engines forum and will remain active there.

I am considering using products not marketed for this purpose. Ironically Bruce, we are having our roof done right now and they are using rubber sheets.

I own Snap-On KRL1101 and KRL1201 Roll Cab and Chest. I have needed new drawer liners for years and have never gotten around to it. Now I am motivated. It appears that OEM replacements are no longer available and they were shit to begin with so I want to upgrade the quality. Looking for suggestions on material that works well above and beyond the simple foam liners. Non-slip and rubberized would be ideal. I am researching rolls of material that I can cut to fit which is no problem at all. Problem I am having is finding material of adequate dimension as my drawers are quite deep @ 27" with varying widths. Looking for ideas or direction toward a good product or recommendations based on what YOU have done. So far I have found nothing with the minimum 27" dimension. For my one long drawer I need a roll that is at least 27" X 47" I'll post anything I come up with...

Source? It did seem kinda pointless.

You are correct! Sharp eye! Fixed the post it's an 02 and no programmer. Incidentally the truck has a tick under 400,000 miles on it. The owner refuses to give it up.

Just because that parts guy or dealer has never sold one means nothing. I don't think we have either.

I inherited yet another fun one. 2002 Excursion that has intermittent loss of power and or dead pedal. Every time a tech looks at the truck it only has a P1211 in memory and of course it has a new IPR and pigtail on it. So I grab the RO and the key and set off on a road test. Start the truck and the first time i press the accelerator pedal I get nothing... and the check engine light comes on. So I hook up IDS and take a look, P1211 in memory. Lets look at some pids. Bam! First thing I see is the IVS dropping out and the truck dead surges when it happens. In the bay with the engine off I can find a spot in the pedal where the IVS switch goes nuts. I sold a pedal assembly and it is an adjustable pedal which is a little over $1000. It is strange that the PCM is not picking up on the IVS fault but perhaps it is too quick? The PCM reacts so it seems odd that there is no code for it... and of course I am assuming that this glitch is causing a false P1211 - I will find out as the customer is returning Monday for his pedal.

I am pretty sure that ULSD will eventually eat a styrofoam cup if left long enough. I used to use that trick but questioned it's reliability after making this observation several times. I will say that if the cut dissolves quickly then gasoline is definitely present. It also does not take much gas to make a sample burn when exposed to a flame. I have just made a small puddle on a clear metal workbench and used a lighter. If there is gas it will flame. No fireballs though.

Just for giggles have you tried disconnecting the other affected injectors one at a time? I think the Hot-Line is leading you in the right direction but unfortunately correcting this is going to require replacing some parts and a leap of faith by all involved. There is a similar post here:

I have never seen a sleeve on an axle like that - good to know they exist If I ever run into that. BTW I have always removed wear sleeves with a square punch and a heavy hammer. Striking across the sleeve will expand the metal and you can pull it with your fingers.

Using IDS can you communicate with the original module or is it a brick? If so you can identify the vehicle and create a new session then try using Programmable Module Installation. I would think that should work. Otherwise, this is how I believe you can do it. Someone correct me if I am wrong! And yes, I realize you have already tried this. This may not have been possible in 2000 MY. If you don't have the original PCM or cannot communicate with the PCM, using IDS try to identify the vehicle and start a new session with the new PCM installed AND LEAVE THE IGNITION TURNED OFF. IDS will fail and ask you if you want to try again and let it do so. Once it fails it tells you IDS has found a problem... You will have to then enter the PCM part number calibration number or tear tag number. If IDS accepts the number you enter as valid it will then attempt to erase and program the module using as built data from the Ford mother ship. You will likely have some configuration data to enter like the VIN and so on. This is the ONLY way I know how using IDS.

Yes you can, I have unbolted the solenoids and replaced them in the truck with no issues.

To me it still suggests a wiring issue. Now, for the discussion can we assume that after reinstalling the original module the concern has returned? (yet) I bet it will sooner or later. Moving harnesses around can fix things temporarily as I am sure you know well. Did you check pin fit?

http://via.fox59.com/58gDI

My thinking is with Mike here. If you have ever tried installing that in one piece on the right bank you will need to get brutal and force the issue. It will stress at that point. Since the threads are on top, torque would not be a factor here or at least not during installation.

For the moment I installed a new FICM power relay F80Z-14N089-AA which meets the specifications of the original relay AND appears to have fixed the truck. PACO is still working on it...

Guess which side? (only explanation I can think as to how this happens)

So I need a PCM relay for this truck - not integral, nothing overly special other than it's a 70A wide blade relay. No listing in the parts catalog. Engineering number does not cross over. Contacted PACO and after a little back and forth they come up with this: "The BJB along with it's respective relays and fuses are not individually available for service. Must order the entire 12A581 harness assembly. KC3Z-12A581-BSA" WHAT? The number on it - JU5T-14B192-FEA - found it on Google but that does me little good. Need to find it or a substitute.