Keith Browning

Ain't that the pot callin the kettle black!

I think we now know WHO is warped here.

@ Bruce One thing I can definitely say about this group, we don't fight. We discuss and debate things... they way it should be. Now, if you want to see something warped I'll show you a picture of my dEck. The boards do not have a runout problem. They are definitely warped!

Ford has clamped down on warranties in the last few years. How big is your fleet and how much business you give your local dealers in parts purchases might help if you can get someone higher up the ladder to reach someone through Ford's fleet managers... I have seen some repairs get covered but it is not the dealer's decision. Good luck.

Not sure at what level I care to disagree with you on that point because this write up is the result of some input from a braking engineer and I have some trouble buying into this 100%. But I am glad I posted this and we are discussing it. I am a believer in that all rotor concerns related to runout and thickness variation are caused by "something" be it improper installation, other worn or damaged brake/hub/bearing/suspension parts, abuse and damage. Are we splitting hairs here as to the terminology or the cause? I would not consider a 1/4" of lateral runout "warpage." I consider that damage. I also think that the word parallel technically shouldn't be used to describe something that varies... just sayin. Enjoying your popcorn Brad?

What I find interesting is that the word "warped" continues to be improperly applied when the discussion of brakes comes around. Brake rotors simply DO NOT WARP. Such a physical attribute on a part like this would require distortion from significant and improper assembly or damage. I beleive this mis-understanding leads people down the path of an incorrect or ineffective repair. The real reason you get a vibration or shimmy when applying your brakes is caused by brake rotor thickness variation. This is condition is caused by rotors that have excessive amounts of lateral run-out that in turn causes the rotor to wear on one side at a particular spot on the rotor as it moves toward and touches the brake pad while it is rotating with the brakes un-applied. This also happens on the other plane of the rotor 180 degrees opposite on the rotor. What you end up with is brake rotors that are thinner in two spots on the rotor. This condition develops over time. When you apply the brakes, the pads are forced back into the caliper at the thicker spots of the rotor and the caliper forces the pads closer when the thinner spots of the rotor return. This translates in brake fluid pressure being forced back, or pumped, to the master cylinder causing movement in the brake pedal which you the operator feel in your foot. If the variation is great enough the force can react with the rotating mass of the rotor, hub, wheel and tire which can transfer into the steering and even through the chassis as a vibration which you the driver might also notice in the steering wheel or in the seat if the problem is in the rear brakes. If your truck is having repeated problems with brake vibration, looking for high priced or gimmicky solutions like cryogenically molecularly modified brake rotors (sounds flippin fancy don't it) will NOT solve your problem. You need to identify the cause of the run-out in the hub and rotor assembly and correct THAT which will allow your rotors to rotate "true." Measuring run-out on the hub itself will tell you a lot. Removing rust and dirt from the hub where the rotor mounts to it can also reduce run-out. Machining the rotors on the vehicle, mounted on the hub will result in rotors that rotate true however starting off with good parts that have a minimum of run-out to begin with is best overall. Another cause for brake vibration on Super Duty trucks is rust or pitting of the rotor surfaces typical of trucks that sit for periods of time. Iron based metals such as the metals used to manufacture brake rotors rust when in contact with moisture and air. In these situations rust forms on the surface of the rotors with the exception of where the brake pads are covering the rotor surface. What you end up with is a rotor surface with rusty areas over the majority of the rotor where the amount of friction differers from where the non-rusty areas are. The result is a momentary grab in the brake caused by variations of the finish of the rotor surface. The longer the truck sits unused, the heavier the rust and pitting will be and the greater the variations in the surface finish of the rotors will become. The obvious fix is to drive the vehicle more frequently or store the vehicle indoors where humidity levels are lower and more constant. The reason for slotted, vented or drilled brake rotors if to increase heat dissipation that can reduce brake fading and pad material transfer caused by excessively high surface temperatures of the rotors and pads under high load / high speed conditions. When that occurs it is similar in theory to the rust scenario in that you have affected the friction surfaces in an un-even or erratic manner.

Oh pshaw THEY don't know me very well! NEW ARTICLE on the public side of the DTS website... Thank you Brad for collaboration!

Sick bastards!

I usually do use the 1/2" "hole" but after breaking a couple over the years I am careful enough and pay attention enough to know when not to push my luck. You can feel when the extension is starting to spin in the cap and back off before you break it. Then go get a socket...

Wow, my experience with Windows 7 has been excellent. I have been runing two PC's with it for almost rwo years and not ONE issue. Knock on wood.

Does anyone know what size socket fits that lid? (I am at home writing on this) I don't remember!

I think the most annoying part of this is that they put plastic tips or tape over some sensors, hose connections and such and it's done half-ass. You still end up having to remove paint. Adding to my list on this engine today... removed paint from the crank pulley in two ways. First, the FEAD belt area was painted up nice and thick. I can only imagine what affect that would have had. Second, all of the pulley mounts including the dampener where the extra pulley mounts to it. Yeah, just bolt that stuff up and when the engine gets hot they all start loosening as the paint softens. Am I bitching?

Have you installed UV dye, run the engine and inspected with a black light?

Me and the Fuck Up fairy have been on a first name basis at times over the year. I f you hear me yell FUCK! then you know we had a visitor!

I think it's done to make them look pretty. I think it's stupid. They look like shit all painted up like that. Especially once the engine has been taken apart or the paint starts to peel off.

I actually liked the late model Crown Vic's. I actually wouldn't mind having a Marauder though or building a "sleeper" Crown Vic.

It almost would not be so bad but for the half assed attempt to tape hose connections and sensor connectors. I feel like contacting the Hot-Line and asking them "what is the proper chemical for removing an 1/8" coating of black paint from the inside of the cam sensor where the harness connects?" I just want to scream. I love how the entire turbocharger is also painted: heat shield and the IPR as well. The y-pipe and manifolds will smoke for days I am sure.

Thanx for the heads up!

Nah, I have not had to destroy the caps. I only try to get it to turn and luckily all have so far for me.

Nice thinking Brad. Of course I feel like a jerk telling you I get them off with a flat chisel and a hammer in a minute or two. But I run the risk of damaging the housing. But this looks great! This is the shiz articles are made of... and like Alton Brown, I like tools that multi-task.

Perhaps the download was corrupted? I would try it again just for giggles.

It seems managers become enamored by guys that claim to be high producers... high hours per week. It almost always comes with a high price to pay in the end... poor quality work, theft, game playing within the ranks. I have seen a few of these guys over the years. They are never worth hiring never mind the money they get paid.

Leon, we are actually kidding about the "dipping in paint." The joke is that the paint is so thick that it causes problems.

Relax Mr. Clayton. You are only as old as you feel.

I know there have many comments to this, but do they dip these engines in paint or what? I just got a 7007 assembly for an Econoline that is so glossy and black it gleams. So the usual paint scraping goes on in bolt holes and hose fittings. But his was my first Econoline FQR install (if you can believe that) so quite a bit of disassembly has to happen to shoehorn that thing in the truck. Sockets don't fit, the paint is still soft. Shit that shouldn't be painted is thickly coated. Honestly, to they REALLY have to do that???