Keith Browning

http://www.fordtechservice.dealerconnection.com/Renderers/ie/wiring/svg/images/connectorcatalog.pdf This might be something worth making available on the DTS site... You won't find those connectors anywhere as far as service parts are concerned. Like Jim stated you will need to harvest one from an old injector. Since re man injectors get all new electrical parts the connector won't be missed. I "kept" one to make an injector noid light and a few extras in case I needed them. I did. For some reason I went through a streak of beating them up when removing and installing intake manifolds. Bull in a china shop I guess.

You know, I have been fooled by supposed air leaks when air checking. Ideally you don't want to hear leaks but remember some pistons have those vents with the balls in them. What is important is that you use air regulated to the recommended pressure and that you hear a solid movement as the clutch applies. Obviously not all clutch pistons have valves so you can see how that can screw with you. I am glad to hear that you are air checking. I now have an 07 in the shop with an intermittent delayed and harsh reverse engagement.

Which makes absolutely no sense considering both heads are fed from the filter standpipe and both fittings for the heads are the same depth from the top of the filter housing. ( I measured)

I would think that the failure occurred after engaging reverse and drive repeatedly they more than likely damaged a clutch assembly, a snap ring... I would perform the solenoid checks, pull the pan and inspect for Ddebris. I have a feeling you will be tearing this one down. Most of the Torqshift failure I have seen were reverse clutches, snap rings and failed planetary assemblies. We don't see many Torqshift problems any more and that is all I have to offer.

If the injector was loose, has loosened... the copper gasket was burnt or pounded away the injector cup is almost always bad. Replace it and verify that your injector hold down clamp is the correct part.

And why? I tend to agree that there was no electronic CAUSE. I blame the crashes on the absence of electronic FAILSAFES that could have prevented them. Using brake pedal and throttle position inputs calibration alone could have been used to return the engine to idle if both pedals are depressed at the same time for a given amount of time.

I guess any gun is dangerous... let's be thankful your buddy wasn't having bear problems!

I agree!

The SECRET is knowing that they are there in the first place.

I beleive they changed that wording with the 6.4L training. It caught my eye as well and if we dig the forum here it may also have been mentioned. Subsequently the DTS quiz you took is old. In fact, the updated version will be loaded with the new DTS website and will actually reflect this change. I have always thought heating the air in the combustion chamber was the function of a glow plug as that is what I was taught loooong ago. Bruce's statement that fuel being sprayed onto glow plugs for ignition is new to me and it makes sense. If we banter this around enough and find some supporting documentation I would even consider changing the answer on the quiz to "both." Time for some searching. Great topic!

I have "serviced" many. Never had a problem cleaning the screens and as Bruce said, be careful taking it apart.

What sucks about this is the tensioners on the 6.4L are covered by the 5/100 diesel engine warranty.

If it turns out to be a fifferent company here in NJ please let me know so I can add them to my list!

First, it's satire Jim. Relax! Second, they get what they pay for most times. People like you and I, (yes I am including you cause you really are no different in the end) will never be obsolete especially when you consider the options. I beleive most of us would opt for what Mr. Flay is serving. The others will eventually return after they have been served by Billy Zitface. But I do concede that there will always be those content with a healthy serving of shit on a shingle or don't know the difference. I have seen the prices at Burger Hut... they ain't much better. `Scuuuuuse Meeeeeeeeeeee while I go dig my fucking head out of the sand.

We then simply overcome, adapt and improvise. [*]My diagnostic fee just became an instructional analyzing and set up fee. The time I would have used and charged you to diagnose your vehicle is now being used to read and understand the diagnosis and determine if it is actually possible. "Sir, your diesel engine does not have a carburetor. Please pay the girl at the window." . [*]There is also now an additional mandatory 10% misdiagnosis waiver. This covers both the consumer and the shop/technicians ass when a bad diagnosis and repair recommendation is presented. It allows for re-diagnosis. It is non-refundable even if the diagnosis is correct. "I didn't ask for your diagnosis. Fuck you too." . [*]Offer your consumer a choice. (they love that as it shows you care) When a suggested repair not worth my time because the consumer expects a rock bottom price for the repair completely removing any profit I kindly take one step to the left, turn around and point to the door. "Wal-Mart is two blocks that-a-way. Go look for the old curmudgeon with the push broom under his nose and fuck with him. Have a nice day!"

Yes but the fuel lines on a 6.7L are external.

Ahhh yes, "the Internet told me..." We see this in all the forums now don't we. There is a lot of good information, a lot more bad advice and even more people who simply don't know the difference. An opinion IS NOT A DIAGNOSIS. They will toil over problems and get spun up by anyone willing to pull their chain. They will spend unknown amounts of money on opinions and the experiences of keyboard mechanics. All in an effort to avoid seeking the services of trained professionals who know what they are doing and typically end up spending a lot more money than if they had gone down that road to begin with. I know, I am preaching tho the choir.

If you see a lot of tank problems you might consider taking one of those tanks and having it reconditioned and keep it on hand for quick use.

Well shit. Why do we bother with the torque specs and procedure? Why not just crank down on those fitting nuts and save a few minutes of time?

I don't see Auto MD or AOL Autos or any other clone of them replacing technicians or anything else but a lot of parts. Looking through and testing both sites I find them misleading and horribly inaccurate. I have no issue with do it yourselfer's who repair and maintain their own vehicles. They get self satisfaction, save some money and a little assurance that the job is done right... even if it in their mind only. I have no problem with consumers researching products and services to get a fair price, to gain product knowledge and feel more confident with their choice in purchasing a product or a service and repair facility. I do have a problem with these websites because they do not appear to be providing accurate information to the consumer. They DO appear to be a marketing platform though. A platform to sell advertising and charge prospective dealerships and repair shops, automotive products and tools manufactureres and suppliers a fee to be listed and "recommended." How many times has a vehicle rolled up to your shop with all kinds of shiny new parts recently bolted onto it? "Didn't fix it huh?" But now the vehicle has already cost the owner a lot of money and time and they are angry. Nothing like getting off to a good start eh? n look at it this way fellas, a website like Auto MD will likely bring cars and trucks to you that the customer fucked up now. But be forewarned, they might argue the repair procedure or the labor after watching those dumbed down videos.

I don't see this as a warranty issue unless I missed something. The fact that air in an injector while it is actuated allowing the pintle makes sense but I don't see pressure being the culprit. I see the lack of fuel that can dampen the action of the moving parts allowing the pintle to hammer the nozzle tip. Ultimately you are always going to have some air in the system after opening it up but I think the idea here is to ensure that we take steps to properly purge the system after a repair or a filter change. I see the Navistar bulletin Bruce posted includes engines with hand primers. Something only a few Ford techs have had to deal with. The electric pumps in the Ford trucks eliminate the need to manually pump and prime the system but we still need to cycle the ignition several times to effectively perform the same function. I don't recall Ford ever posting anything like this but do you think they would deny a claim for a cracked or broken tip citing dry starts as the cause? I know, I wouldn't put it past them anymore either. The only problem I have with a 6.0L is that sometimes the air in the system does not purge by itself and despite cycling the key, the truck will start and run then stall after about a minute. It is then necessary to remove the primary filter cap and relieve the pressure with a loud "pssssst" after which you can cycle the key to fill the housing... screw the cap back on and off you go. I am not sure that scenario is enough to increase the chances of cracking an injector tip. I view this as a rare failure however proper bleeding is always the right thing to do.

I wouldn't get too excited Jim, their estimator told me that changing the SPARK plugs in my 2006 F550 with a 6.0L PSD would cost $110.04. Now, if I do it myself it will only cost me $7.84!!! I'll bet I can beat that if I ask Larry to hook me up with some 6.0L spark plugs.

I have read once or twice that water could possibly cause this too. I havent heard anything official about that though. Anyone?

You mean as the tires wear and the shallower tread depth makes the tire tread stiffer.