Keith Browning

I see Captain Obvious is back. So what happened Aaron? Pay $50 bucks to fart in the emergency room?

Hmmm, I recall a lot of A/C compressor failures around the 2006 model year. A couple of Super Duties and a LOT of LCF's. All seized. A good number of them were actually towed in as no-starts. When the compressor goes it is common for the clutch and or the pulley bearing to seize locking up the pulley. The drag is enough to make the engine crank slow... and not start.

I believe that has not been posted here ever. There USED to be something over on flatratetech.com but it disappeared years ago. I bantered the thought of posting something here but then liability thoughts began crossing my mind. I think somewhere a copy of this procedure does exist though. We did discuss this more than once too...

This picture came from some guy on the Diesel Stop trying to figure out what failed here. I politely pointed out that it looks like it was arced to a battery terminal after being laid down/fallen down. Ummm yeah.

I enjoyed the video. One of the screens looks like the cylinder contribution screen in the MD Truck software... that test that did not work or at least it didn't in my copy. I have always had to do it manually.

The reason I roll my eyes is because the baffle kit was factory installed in engines put in Econolines after 6.0L Super Doodies were no longer in production. Now, I have done about 5 or 6 completely plugged valves on these late model E-Vans. The baffle is supposed to reduce oil vapors from the intake wetting the valve. But these were all buses, that idle, a lot. I thought the EGR strategy kept them closed after 5 minutes... or was that just for the Super Doodies?

It has been at least a year or so since but we had two or three of these failures come through our shop. When you find it blocking a fitting, it looks like a heavy plastic straw. My guess is that it is some sort of an internal liner in the pressure hose going to the brake booster. I *think* I recall the Hot-Line mentioning something like this.

EGR baffle kit =

Makes sense that a complete swap like that would be okay but God help the poor bastard that will need to look up parts in the future by VIN or application.

Thank you Jim. If anyone is in touch with him please extend my well wishes to him and I am sure he will be back sooner or later.

I am not sure of the physical changes on those engines but I am thinking that changing injectors and turbo sized *might* have an effect. Remember these things are factory tuned to specific hardware, you go a changing these items and use the original calibration you are entering unknown territory. I would think some performance issues may arise. Then again, I have no experience modding these things though I feel what you want to do here is not so much a modification as it is bastardization. That could present special problems in the future as well.

Jim? You aren't telling me that this is the first time you have heard that he gold stuff has the nitrate additive already in it? This is why you never use the VC8 additive when refilling the system with new gold antifreeze otherwise you would have an overcharged system. Same is to be said with the Specialty Orange in that the additives are already in the coolant. I am sure you are aware of this... but I said it just to be sure it is added to the discussion.

Ford's Premium Gold Coolant is loaded with nitrate.

Yes Jim, I ran into this last week and like you I was caught without the corrosion test kit. We still use the three way test strips but only for the coolant strength however the nitrate pad is now used to detect the presence of nitrate contamination. Remember that the Specialty Orange is not compatible with Gold or Green coolant. This is the same truck that I found the loose block plug on and I had initially detected nitrate when I tested the coolant... remember, this guy came in with the "Check Coolant" light on and didn't bother to tell us that he had added 1 gallon of straight Gold antifreeze because the tank was low... so I spent an hour trying to figure out WHY I was about to flush both cooling systems. The twisted irony is that the customer went into our front parts counter and asked for coolant for his 2011 Super Duty Diesel so I can't totally blame him. Yeah I can. And yes we ordered our test kit.

Yeah, underneath. One of the worst things for any vehicle is to just sit, unused for long periods of time in wet or humid climates. Storing a truck near the beach at the Jersey shore is probably going to accelerate the process.

That is the way I have always done them. But I concede that I have not done one now in quite a while. These trucks are aging and a lot more is rusted on them here in New Jersey. In fact, some are so damn rusty ANYTHING you touch wither falls apart or rounds off. The fuel supply lines are also highly susceptible to rust.

I have never heard of a case personally. Thats why I think it's all a bunch of hot air and bullshit.

It happens.

At first I was a little shocked at this statement but then I remember that the 7.3L is an older engine and some guys who are newer to the business may have little experience with it. There is a lot going on at the top of the 7.3L that is oil related and it is mostly all external. Leaks here as mentioned will drain through a hole in the valley at the right rear and appear to be leaking at the back of the engine.

Ticketed for WHAT? How are they getting caught?

Same here in the states Jim. There may be states where they talk tougher and inspect vehicles more rigidly but in general it's a lot talk and not much action in my opinion. As far as the legality of it all it is pretty well defined. The morality end, as you stated, is in large, ignored.

This stuff amuses me, not surprises, just amuses. www.thedpfdeleteshop.com "The DPF Delete Shop is your ultimate supplier for DPF Delete Pipes and Tuners. We ONLY offer DPF Delete parts to rid you of the issues your Duramax, Cummins or Powerstroke Diesel has been plagued with. That means better mileage and less down time due to plugged EGR's, Full Particulate Filters and Stuck Turbo Vanes." Warranty "Your Vehicles Warranty and the Installation of Aftermarket Products The Federal Magnusson-Moss Warranty Act protects consumers of aftermarket products. From our understanding, the Act states that if something breaks on your vehicle and you take it in for warranty repair, the dealer must honor your warranty unless they can prove that whatever modifications you have added to your vehicle actually caused the problem. Although consumers are legally protected as stated above, the practical reality is that automotive manufacturers and dealers may have different views in regards to the installation of aftermarket parts – especially those that produce horsepower, such as performance chips, modified intake manifolds and aftermarket exhaust systems. Be aware that some dealers and manufacturers might attempt to void warranties -- regardless of whose products are installed or how they are used. We strongly recommend that you always disconnect and remove any aftermarket part that might interfere with diagnostic equipment before you take your vehicle to the dealer for warranty work. If you would like specific clarification on The Federal Magnusson-Moss Warranty Act and your rights, please visit SEMA.org for more information on this issue."

I think Jim's question was leading to checking the front universal joints at the knuckles. A seized joint can cause steering to bind... and even kick back.

In comes a 2011 with a very slow coolant leak, didn't show with pressure tester. It took some careful inspecting but I found coolant traces on the top of the starter and along the lower oil pan seam. Long story short the right engine block coolant drain plug was loose and it wasn't obvious. Cleaned the threads, applied some Teflon tape and wrapped it up. FYI: The plug is not a machined plug with an o-ring like Navistar uses, its actually a regular looking pipe thread plug with sealer.

The 'ol wiggle test in dynamic fashion!