Keith Browning

Mike you are a rockstar!

I have been researching this and there are plenty of options for mid-sip tank replacements - increased capacity and plastic assembies... but nothing for the aft-axle which amazes me because there is guaranteed business out there. It is a simple tank to mold as well and there is a nice metal plate to mount it to. Since the tanks are not scheduled to be released for MONTHS I wonder is perhaps Ford is redesigning a new tank or even coming out with a plastic tank. I mean what else could be the reason for such a long delay? I did find this: http://gastankrenu.com which looks promising and there happens to be a franchise here in NJ. So, we called them and you bring your empty tank to them, they strip it, line it with an epoxy. Takes about 1 week and costs $475.00 USD... here in Jersey any way. You get a 5-year guarantee.

Anyone else waiting on any 40 gallon tanks for F450/F550 trucks? They are on backorder... until August? Has anyone found an aftermarket solution for this ongoing problem? These tanks SUCK and they are causing a lot of collateral damage.

I don't think I have seen Ford use a dummy pulley in quite a few years. Regarding the removal of the clutch disk that might work but on many of the compressor failures I have run into lately the pulley bearing has been wiped out from the field clutch overheating.

Looks like there is some training in your future eh?

Got somthin' in your eye there Aaron?

+2

Stupid is as stupid does but if the damn valve breaks apart and is seized in the housing you have no choice but to replace the housing. If they wanted to solve this problem they should have applied some anti-seize to the bore and valve before assembly. I wonder why the 6.0L valves never seize in the intake. Perhaps they are not as tight of a fit?

I sat in one okay. For a sub-compact this car is nice! It was a loaded pre-production vehicle brought to us by Ford. The same dude that had the 2011 truck months back before it's release. Jimasaurus mentioned the technology that is in this car and it does in fact have some interesting features... except a diesel engine option! If that were available I would seriously consider one to replace my aging Explorer to commute with.

Yep. We have discussed this before. Blowing debris off of the top of the engine before we pull things apart is a good practice and an even better habit.

There are repairs where I simply loosen/remove the intake bolts and lift the intake a few inches - great for EGR coolers & HPOP's. Since you already had the fan stator and the FEAD belt off this would only have taken, what... 5 minutes? the only bad bolt is the one under the fuel filter housing but a 10mm gear wrench gets it loose.

...and I will vouch for replace all 8 advice. Several times I have replaced a few injectors in an older 7.3L engine only to have to go back in and replace the rest. While the cost is higher the customer (and you) will be happy... the first time.

Actually it wasn't too long ago we discussed this HERE and there wasn't much to say. I know Ford has never mentioned using it.

I have some nice pictures of a shattered and bent push rod from a 7.3L caused by a seized valve. I have come across seized valves in all three Navistar built Power Stroke engines. Some have resulted in broken parts like the push rod, a rocker and one snapped off the end of the valve at the keeper. I realize this engine is 13 years old but it is still possible for a valve to seize in the head if the right circumstance exist. If it were me I would be considering pulling the cylinder head to inspect the valve stems and guides. It is possible for a valve to move when cold and bind once the engine gets hot. The root cause is usually rust combined with a little gummed up oil and carbon. Good Luck!

This is a list of hard to find and oddball parts that is good to have on hand. If you have numbers you would like to add to this list or see any part of this list that is incorrect or requires updating because the part number has been changed please PM me with the information and I will add it to the list. Part # Motorcraft # Part Description 4C4Z-9365-BA FD-1065 7.3L fuel screens in the tank DTRM pickup assembly 2C3Z-9G804-AB 7.3 DIT oil supply fitting kit @ HPOP F4TZ-9N693-A 7.3 DIT fitting & plug o-ring @ cylinder heads F81Z-9C387-BA 7.3 DIT Fuel supply line o-ring service kit. 6E7Z-12A690-DA 6.0L IPR Valve/VGT Actuator Connector Pigtail Kit 3C3Z-6C683-AB Oil Cooler reservoir to HPOP screen 6.0L W302725 Green o-ring; Breather to left valve cover 6.0L W300049 6mm valve cover component attachment Nuts 6.0L & 6.4L 1C3Z-9g486-AA Turbocharger Turbine Housing Bolts #4 7.3L 3C3Z-9H529-A 6.0L IPR Screen Kit 4C3Z-9B246-F 1 piece HPOP fitting 6.0L (replaces STC fitting) 6E7Z-9A332-B Stand pipe kit w/o-rings 6.0L & 4.5L 3C3Z-9K024-AA HPO Rail Plug and Seal, Left side, ICP hole 4.5L 3C3Z-9433-AA Intake manifold & EGR cooler gasket set 6.0L 3C3Z-9T517-AG Fuel Pressure Regulator w/blue spring 6.0L 6E7Z-9C165-B Fuel Pressure Regulator w/blue spring SPRING AND SEALS ONLY 4.5L/6.0L 3C3Z-6C885-A VGT unison ring 6.0L 3C3Z-9T514-DA VGT Install Kit 6.0L (bolts, o-rings, gasket) W302193 6.0L Rocker arm plastic clip 3C3Z-8287-CA 6.0L EGR Cooler Clamp 3C3Z-6026-DA 6.4L Fuel Cooler Coolant Air Bleed Plug 8C3Z-9A214-B 6.4L DCFM Water Drain Valve Kit EC3Z-9B246-A 6.7L Complete High Pressure Fuel System Replacement Kit BC3Z-6N958-A 6.7L Fuel Injector Sound Insulator Push Pins BC3Z-9B246-A 6.7L Fuel return line repair fitting at engine fuel filter

Easy Mike, I just wanted to use the word Jimasaurus!

And if HALF of the technicians out there stayed as current as Jimasaurus does "we" might not look as bad as we do!

And sombody dared balk at the canister filter hanging off the bottomof the 6.7L.

An old digital camera is a great thing to have in your toolbox. I have been known to snap pictures if things to help me remember how something is assembled or in one instance, wired up.

YEAH, ME TOO!

I doubt very much there would be casting sand especially if it is a reman engine. More than likely any grit or sand like material you find in the oil cooler cavity will have fallen in during the removal of the oil cooler. That area of the engine tends to trap a lot of dirt and road dust and even washing off the area or using compressed air may not remove all of the debris from every crevice.

TSB 99-3-5 addresses this concern. I have attached a copy of the TSB. Basically you can either install the breakout box and ground pin #54 with the transmission in PARK or place the transmission in drive, firmly press the brake pedal and slowly bring the engine RPM's up. If the noise goes away using either method the torque converter is the source of the noise. There are still a lot of these rattling trucks out there and once you know the sound you can recognize it from hundreds of feet away.

Do they own any fucking hoists?

I couldn't tell you and I havent met anyone how can. I tried and gave up 15 years ago.

You sir are the devil!