Keith Browning

It seems typical that many base engine failures take out a lot of assemblies that are not salvageable. About the only thing I have ever been able to repair has been valves in the heads from seizing. Other than that its been largely catastrophic failures. and things like wrist pin retainers and melted pistons requiring short blocks, heads...

This is the new DTS Classified Forum. Over the years I have had requests to add a forum for buying and selling items. I have decided to give this a go on a trial basis for now. There are a few guidelines I insist upon: [*]You may post items for sale or items wanted. . [*]You are responsible for your classified posts and conduct. Myself or this website are not liable for any transaction, disputes or misinformation. All transactions are private between the buyer and seller. . [*]It is preferred that we keep items related to the general theme of this website, our vocation and related interests. This is not EBAY. No illegal items or unethical tansactions permitted. . [*]Do NOT post any personal information such as telephone numbers, addresses, bank, credit card and account information. Use Private Messages to contact buyers and sellers. . [*]All posts are to be deleted when an item is no longer for sale. All posts over 90 days will be deleted. All users will have permissions to remove their own classified posts. . [*]The site administrators and moderators have the option to remove any classified post without warning for any reason and to ban users who abuse the guidelines from posting in this forum. . [*]If you have questions or comments please PM me directly. Do NOT post them. Thank you!

Drill baby, drill! MAYBE a locksmith can help you... you might be able to pick it if you have a pick kit... or you can drill it out. Aim the bit right down the key hole repeating with a larger drill bit until the tumbler comes out, then you can push the lock pin up and remove the lock cylinder. Replace with a new lock cylinder assembly. If you decide to drill, find a good way to catch the drilling's or clean up will be time consuming.

We just got in a 6.7L and a couple 6.2L trucks. Took both for a quick spin which was all I needed... but I want to drive them more! The handling and ride quality seems to have been improved. The 6.7L firmly plants you in the seat with the throttle on the floor. We had the windows open and you can hear the tires *just barely* breaking loose through ALL of the gears on clean dry pavement. I am impressed so far but like I said, I want to really take one out and drive it, especially on the highway. The 6.2L is equally impressive especially compared to the dogged 5.4L. It feels strong unlike any of the recent gasoline engines off the line and through the RPM range. The best part is the exhaust tone. While it is not loud you notice it. You notice it in the truck while driving. You notice it while it is a few hundred feed down the end of a dead end street with a co-worker at the wheel mashing the accelerator pulling away from you.

I don't recall hearing anything about ECU security for these trucks. Only a tell-tale DTC.

I still haven't gotten one.

I have refined the list to include the Turbo Seal kit (required!) and the additional misc. parts I added in the above post. Some of the quantities have been changed because the turbo seal kit supplies some of them... 8 W712878-S439 Body Bolt(EXCEPT CREW CAB) 6 W712878-S439 Body Bolt(CREW CAB ONLY) 2 W712879-S439 Body Bolt(CREW CAB ONLY) 1 8C3Z-9T514-C Turbocharger Seal Kit 1 7C3Z-6L612-B Turbo Outlet Gasket 2 8C3Z-6N640-A Exhaust Gasket 2 8C3Z-6N640-B Exhaust Gasket 4 W302870B Fuel Line Washers 5 1817957-C1 Exhaust Pipe Bolts 6 W302494 Exhaust Pipe Nuts 2 W300003 EGR-OC Bracket Bolts 1 W711484S439 Intermediate steering shaft bolt 2 388898.S Nylon Washers (Hydro Boost Lines) 3 W302674 Push Nuts (glow plug module heat shield) __________________________________________________________________ Additional Parts - Repair dependent 1 8C3Z-9G805-A Kit-Cover Fuel Pump Look up HPFP, FRP Sensor, Fuel Injectors, Fuel Manifolds, Turbocharger(s) by application /as needed

Unions. What kind of excuse is that?

Every time I do one of these I refer to this post... and I always forget the tubo hardware/seal kit... 8C3Z-9T514-C And then there are the three little push nuts that secure the glow plug module heat shield... W302674 3 required (4 in a package)

Yes sir! But I believe the data is sent to Navistar, not Ford. * I THINK * You will need a NETS user name and password to perform the reprogramming which you can get by calling the Ford Hot-Line.

See THIS TOPIC and then see THIS TOPIC

MD Truck

I love the new "styling" but I agree with a popular publication that the overall design of the Super Duty is beginning to look dated. I know that the side vents on these trucks are in fact functional I don't care for them and if you look around, Ford and some other manufactures are sticking them on cars and I think they look absolutely stupid for the most part. As for the badging I think it's unnecessary... that 15" on the grille is enough.

I haven't had good luck using an air lift on this system. We have a cooling system flusher that has a fill function. I prefer to disconnect the coolant hose at the fuel cooler, cap the cooler fitting and run pressurized coolant directly from the fill hose of the flusher into the cooler hose. It effectively purges the air from that part of the system. I am willing to re-try my airlift though but it is rare I need to purge the cooler.

You never did disclose why they wanted the radiator replaced to begin with. The only time I have ever had the fuel cooler pump make that noise is when it was air bound. Maybe that system has a leak and is dry or has air in it? Just a thought.

It is not mandatory to replace the EGR cooler when replacing an oil cooler, therefore, you will not find any documentation concerning that. There may be a message somewhere. It is mandatory where the opposite scenario occurs. If an EGR cooler fails it ISmandatory to replace the oil cooler.

Steve, we have discussed the cab bolt problem a few times here but I see that you are new - welcome to the DTS by the way! Most of us use a torch to gently heat the body bolts which softens the locking compound on the bolt threads. Apply heat to the bolt heads being careful not to actually melt them or the rubber insulators. You don't need to get them cherry red or anything like that. Just get them hot. Wait a minute or two to allow the heat to travel to the other end of the bolts then loosen the bolts by hand. You should find that works very well. Some techs have resorted to more drastic methods but this works best in my humble opinion. This is one procedure where technique and finesse trumps speed and it really doesn't take vary long this way to begin with. Certainly less time and less aggravation than having to deal with loose cage nuts. See THIS ARTICLE for more information...

Though not as common as with an F-Series, a sticking turbo can still lead to breached head gaskets, air in the system and overheating. I want to question the whistling noise as possibly the pressure cap venting. Monitoring system pressure while driving will prove or disprove this theory... a less professional but quicker test would be to leave the cap loose and drive it for a few good accelerations. Also, if the degas bottle is and pressure cap are distorted I would first pull the oil filter and inspect the oil filter stand pipe for melting or distortion. If the e engine gets hot enough to do that Ford insists the engine is junk.

Fortunately I don't have THAT problem. Stories like this usually affect CSI meaning they likely will come around for discussion again. Keep doing what you are doing and hopefully you might have an influence.

Or how about this cheese fouling the sensor and filling up the water chamber in the HFCM?

It's the HPFP and injectors. I got some nice shiny debris from the injector lines. Apparently Ford is now looking REALLY HARD at pump failures when they get clued in on them. They immediately sent an FSE out and the job is at a standstill until the results from the fuel samples come back. Continued diagnostics also revealed high fuel trims on 2 cylinders with one at 12%. Relative compression showed -6% on a perfectly good cylinder... and showed no loss on a cylinder 50 PSI down. We have been here before. Gheeeee. I wonder were this is headed? And the fuel pressure anomaly I reported is not normal. My personal manual gage is sensitive and picked it up. The PVT in IDS did pick it up but it was not as wild - the IDS display showed pressure fluctuating from 3 to 7 PSI rhythmically. The gauge bar gauge was rock steady. I used all these to determine if this was a gauge problem, it isn't. I took my MAD tools gauge to another truck and it was steady as usual. I proved out the supply supply system with a steady 6 PSI at the HFCM and less than 1" Hg restriction on the inlet.

Yep. "They" are already looking for ways to remove the exhaust filters and DEF systems on these trucks and they are not even on the road yet. I know, nobody is shocked by this.

The gauge also should not shoot above 30 PSI either. I would agree with you if this were a steady vacuum reading. I have had one of those already where the fuel filters were plugged. Testing started with 2 PSI and steadily and smoothly pulled a vacuum that never returned to the pressure side until the truck shut off and the key returned to run. There were no pulsations whatsoever. Oh we have a flow problem alright but I don't think it is on the supply side. However, since I have never seen this and I have not completed testing I am keeping an open mind

6 PSI