Keith Browning

The customer had to take his truck to get to work so I need to get it back into the shop. I contacted the Hot-Line and they agree it is not normal... first I need to retest the pressure. Maybe a filter issue, stand-pipe or banjo bolts/check valves at the head were suggested.

I just installed the updated fuel pressure regulator in a customer's truck with part number 3C3Z-9T517-AG. He returned this morning concerned about a repeating noise under the hood that seems to be coming from the secondary filter housing. I placed my hand on the housing and could feel it vibrate when the noise occurs. As we discussed here the blue spring in the kit supposedly regulates fuel to a higher pressure, I am wondering if this is a normal characteristic of this regulator and if anyone else has noticed this concern.

Consider removing the intake manifold a throwback to the 2003 model year but my method is derived from madness and there is a definite method to my madness. I live and work in NJ where there is usually more road salt than snow on the ground all winter long and the madness of dealing with the rusted y-pipe nuts (as mentioned) can be enough to make you avoid dealing with them if at all possible. As for the intake manifold, it and the EGR cooler creates two problems. [*]The right side HPOP cover bolts are a pain in the ass to get out with the EGR cooler in place AND as the service manual states, "Use care when removing the pump cover. The three bolts remaining in the pump cover under the EGR cooler can fall out of the pump cover and into the engine under the high-pressure pump." Ever spend time fishing one of those fucking bolts out of the engine? I HAVE! [*]Removing the rear heat shield to enable you to cut the silicone on the right side of the cover seam is a pain in the ass as well. With the EGR cooler out of the way the silicone can be cut easily using a old bent EGR gasket. Additionally I like having the extra room to clean around the pump cover (also as mentioned). You don't "remove" the intake manifold. You remove the manifold bolts and the EGR cooler, use bungee cords to suspend the manifold from the hood. It takes far less time to do that than completely removing the heat shield and messing with the y-pipe bolts. With the EGR cooler out of the way the cover comes right off and out and back in again with ease. I know what the service manual says. Call me crazy but my method induces no aggravation, I no longer go bolt fishing and it actually takes less time.

The vacuum tester is called a cooling system air lift or the Snap-On "RADKITPLUSA" if you shop around you can get something for less than $100 but the snappy is what I own. If your fleet is considered a dealer where special tools are automatically shipped then you might have the one that Ford sent out to the dealers some time ago. I bought my own before I realized we had one. I highly recommend that you get one one way or the other.

Actually that was what I was thinking after I I did this. The turbo was off down in Texas and I thought that it was not aligned properly when it was put back on... this might explain all the missing bolts we see. Once the turbo goes through some thermal cycles I am sure they must move around a little allowing bolts to become loose and work themselves out. I have seen technicians do HPOP fittings leaving the intake manifold in place which requires them to bend the shit out of the y-pipe. Same guys have trouble getting the y-pipe connection to the turbo to line up. Ever see a guy make that connection then take a long assed pry-bar to force the turbo down onto the pedestal? There ya go!

Speaking of turbocharger mounting bolts missing I recently had a 2005 truck in for a no start concern that ended up needing a stand pipe kit. While I was working on the engine I noticed the right bolt was missing and checked for the others. I grabbed a new bolt from my drawer, stuck it in and tightened it and as I did I then noticed that there was a gap between the turbo and the pedestal. Maybe 1/8" or a little more. I thought nothing of it but I did recheck the other bolts again and the turbo looked properly seated in the pedestal. There were no DTC's in the PCM - nope, not even for the low ICP while cranking. Point is, no turbo or lack of boost codes. After getting the truck back together and road testing the truck had a major lack of acceleration and the MIL illuminated. P0299. After the VVT test I ordered the turbo and the other tech on my team installed it while I was in school and it also got a new unison ring for wear. Still had the MIL and the P0299 but acceleration was noticeably improved and you could hear the turbo spool up now. I reran the VVT test and it failed though it did show movement. I replaced the VGT actuator and retested - all is good. I don't think this was a coincidence as the customer never mentioned the MIL or lack of power. Bottom line? I believe I tweaked the turbo housing and the VGT actuator when I drew the replacement bolt in tight. Just thought I would mention this incident...

Or you can save them for use when you find a bolt or two missing while working on a truck. There must be a monster out there that eats turbo mounting bolts... probably hangs out with the missing sock monster too.

That is one of my all-time favorite "technical" pictures!

Soot will combine with the coolant turning it black as you suspect... you mentioned a wet EGR valve but what about the coolant level in the degas bottle? If you had oil coming out of the turbocharger it would exit out the down pipe, not the manifold. If you had a base engine concern where you suspect a lot of oil coming from a cylinder I would expect a significant misfire and or a ton of smoke that does not go away. Just to be sure you will want to inspect the turbine housing, down pipe and the CAC tubes for excessive oil. If for no other reason to cover your ass. It is common and I am sure you are aware that a leaking EGR cooler will drain coolant down the right side up-pipe if there is a significant leak and depending on the progression of the leak it may only leak when cold, or only when hot. Either of those scenarios can screw with you. Staining an fluid leaking from the manifold to up-pipe connection is a dead giveaway that the cooler has failed. I have seen a few trucks with black coolant trails leading from the right side exhaust. Not many, but I have seen it.

CLICKIE HERE to read the topic where I found that the block had rusted under the CMP and literally lifted the CMP sensor away from the block causing a weak signal. There are several more good topics on using the oscilloscope and cam/crank signals.

Yep. Thats what it's name is.

Great list Bruce!

Recall I had an issue that eluded me and a Navistar FSE for a while but that was a P0087 DTC. Clicky here to read if you wish. In reviewing the pinpoint tests for P0087 and P0088 we can see that the diagnostics are similar. Keep in mind I was chasing a low pressure concern and had a problem with the VPWR circuit that fed the PCV and VCV... you have a high pressure concern which leads me to suspect a sticking valve or a PCV/VCV ground side circuit concern. Although it doesn't list DTC P0087, TSB 07-26-2 identifies the pump gasket as the cause for several DTC's and lack of power for 2008 F-Super Duty vehicles built prior to 8/20/2007. I can see an intermittent short to ground on either circuit CE321 or CE328 causing erratic PCV or VCV operation. We have heard of a lot of pumps being replaced for sticking valves - be forewarned that fuel contamination or RUST will void warranty coverage. Personally, I would lean toward a pump. At the very least, accessing the pump will allow you to examine the wiring before you toss a pump and gasket at it.

Actually that is the perfect solution Greg! Incorporate the missing components into the diagnosis and the repair estimate. This would be totally legitimate, Jim would not be acting like a tattletale but as the competent and professional technician he is. Doing so will not only provide the catalyst for opening up the topic but the documentation of his diagnosis and the repair estimate ill become a record of the "emissions infraction."

Well, I am still trying to find written proof that the VC-12 is only compatible with OAT coolants (Motorcraft® Specialty Orange Engine Coolant) I know that mixing OAT coolants with regular coolant will severely reduce the effectiveness and longevity of the additives therefore I can only conclude for now that the VC-12 cannot be used with the Gold coolant. If you research the coolants you will find there are big differences in the base composition as well as the type of additives they contain. Word to the wise, always use the type of coolant specified for a vehicle/engine and NEVER mix coolant types. That should include testing methods and additives. I went searching for more information on the testing kits and VC-12 additive for the new orange coolant and so far I have come up empty but I am sure it will surface. I have to look a little closer. Accustrip has a contamination test kit for RED coolant which I am not sure is "the same" as the orange coolant. Rotunda lists the test kit, but no picture or detailed information - it was late and my eyelids were heavy when I was looking... maybe someone else can dig this up. Oh, I was talking about the 6.4L cavitation issue with my FSE and he stated that Ford is looking at this and deciding what to do to reduce the occurrence or effects of cavitation. Changing the size of the pulley is not out of the question. I also wonder if the hyper extended thermostats are causing a flow restriction since that bypass part of the thermostat is supposed to allow coolant to return to the pump.

There you have it - straight from a Stanadyne user.

But it is not always you or me they are hiding from.

Yep. He's lubricated alright! There has to be more guys.

[*]Grandpa gets lubricated [*]People who don't read instructions [*]People who don't follow instructions [*]Technicians not using the proper safety gear as required [*]Technicians not using exhaust hoses while running vehicles in the shop [*]Failure to use a "backer wrench" when tightening critical fittings or when removing cooling stator bolts [*]Leaving shop manuals and tools out on oil filled work benches [*]Leaving parts removed from customer vehicles on the floor - ESPECIALLY engine parts [*]Not capping fuel system fittings [*]Not capping induction system openings (CAC tubes, intake openings, turbo inlet etc.) while working on engines in chassis [*]Improperly "probing" electrical connectors & damaging them [*]Not flushing transmission coolers after a failure [*]Standing on front bumpers scratching the paint or chrome [*]Not clearing DTC's after repairs [*]Not road testing after repairs [*]I know there are more...

The coolant concentration should be maintained at 50/50 mix of Motorcraft® Specialty Orange Engine Coolant VC-3-B (U.S.) / CVC-3-B (Can.) or specification number WSS-M97B44-D and distilled water. The level of coolant should be maintained at the "COLD FILL" range in the coolant reservoir. If you suspect any coolant system leaks or lack of cooling, pressure test the cooling system. Refer to your Owner Guide for additional information. Engine coolant system strength (carboxylates) should be checked and serviced at the mileage or equivalent hour intervals specified by the vehicle's message center and maintenance schedule. Check coolant strength using the Rotunda Antifreeze Test Strip kit to determine if additive is required (Rotunda Antifreeze Coolant ELC Contamination Kit# 328-00008). If the carboxylate strength is too low add one bottle of Motorcraft® Specialty Orange Engine Coolant Revitalizer , VC-12 or equivalent. The coolant can be recharged with this additive up to two times before the cooling system must be flushed and refilled – Do not add Supplemental Coolant Additive if flush & refill is required.

OF COURSE the Ford Reps are going to be pushing the Motorcraft product and for what it is supposed to do it is a good product. BUT! The Stanadyne product is superior when you consider the additional additive package it offers all of which is beneficial. I would offer your customers the choice of both products if they want to shop price and I don't see a problem with using the Ford product as the biggest issue these engines face is the poor ignition quality that low cetane fuel causes. Remember, poor fuel/ignition quality increases soot, performance concerns, elevated fuel/crankcase vapors, loaded EGR valves and aftertreatment systems. Personally I would recommend the Stanadyne additive. And by the way, you stated that the Stanadyne product has a water emulsifier which is incorrect and vitally important if you are making a point to a customer. It has special demulsifiers cause tiny water droplets to come out of suspension/emulsion, so the filter/separator can more effectively remove water

I jotted down a note about these tools in my student workbook. Looks like you did the legwork for me! Thanx for the post. In class we used picks to release the clips. We noted that dropping that clip was probably inevitable. I assume the tool means the clip stays in the fitting reducing the chances for losing it.

It is starting with the new Ford 6.7L. The 6.4L had fuel trim adjustments by the PCM. One thing I suspect is that the fuel trim method allows the PCM to adjust cylinders that are developing problems effectively masking any symptoms until damage has been done. The IQA is just like the Caterpillar deal and the injector code is right on the injector. No files to deal with. My instructor stated that an incorrect code will likely not cause any undetectable symptoms. This had led to several comments I have heard which lead to the question "why bother then?" If we start to think of this as something that is not important then apparently we are missing something. If it is important enough to engineer this in to the design of the engine there has to be a good reason for IQA.