Keith Browning

Don't even waste your time removing the engine mounts. Just remove the 8 bolts connecting the engine crossmember to the body and lower it. Took less than 60 seconds. And yes, this does give you much more room.

Thanx Mike.

My first. The trick I think is trying not to slice your wrists and bleeding out just to end the insanity. 3 hours into it and I finally got the intake manifold out. WTF!!! Somebody please tell it gets easier. I cant wait to put this back together.

I am currently in DAY 5 waiting for a Hot Line response. If it was the suicide hot line my wake, funeral and burial would have already happened.

Been a while since I saw these knuckle heads! I think I posted this vid quite a while ago... they are in Jersey too. Although this is such a hack I certainly can understand why some people opt for this kinda stuff. I have seen one truck with this glue on pan repair. At least these guys are not cutting crossmembers to get the pan out and welding them back in.

The rear transmission support is not so bad except in cases like this. It's the front crossmember that sucks. If you have to do a cat ypipe, remove the trans or just pull the pan to replace the main control or somehting you do not have to remove it either or disconnect everything. I have found that simply disconnecting the steering shaft and the sway bar ends then removing the bols is sufficient. It will hang low enough to work around. I was not aware the trans support did not need to come out to access the DEF tank. I just did one and assessed this idea but went ahead with removing the trans support which is not a big deal when everything loosens okay. Sorry to hear about you struggles Mike. This is something I would expect don here in the rust belt.

It's one of those things you kinda destroy when you remove it and they tell you to discard it in the procedure. We searched the parts listings and came up empty. I'll see what I have when I get to it. Ill try that number though.

Anyone have the part number for the 3.2L EGR cooler bypass regulator vacuum hose clamp?

I understand these are a little bit of an issue however I have not seen one failure in my shop as of yet. Today I have a a 2106 Transit using coolant slowly and no external leaks. I have positively detected combustion gasses in the degas bottle. Asside from removing the EGRT-2 sensor and inspecting it are there any quick and dirty ways of diagnosing a bad cooler or is the standard protocol just to shit can it and install a new cooler? I have nes for you, if I am pulling one off I am not wasting my time testing it just to put it back on. Also I did see this: 46122 2015-2017 Transit - 3.2L Diesel - Overheat Due To Coolant Loss Without An External Coolant Leak Some 2015-2017 Transit vehicles equipped with a 3.2L Puma Diesel engine may exhibit an overheat condition due to coolant loss without any external coolant leaks. This may be due to an internally leaking Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Cooler. To correct this condition, install revised EGR Cooler CK4Z-9U433-B. Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 303-08. Use causal part 9U433 and applicable labor operations from Section 09 of the Service Labor Time Standards (SLTS) manual. EFFECTIVE DATE: 11-OCTOBER-2016

As of the date of this post, FDRS only supports the follwing Ford vehicles in North America: 2018 Expedition 2018 Navigator 2018 Ecosport

Do we find it ironic that such a simple harness, routed in a most asinine manner could be one of the most problematic harnesses on the truck to date?

Leave the steering gear in place mike. Little tip: disconnect the engine mounts and lift the engine an inch or so. All I really accessed was both splash shields, air box, steering stabilizer and the lower coolant hose. Plenty of room from there. I think the worst part of the job is that the harness has the battery cables in it negative and positive and is all nice an new and straight and STIFF. That harness needs to be bent and twisted into place... not all that easy is it?

Anybody replace one yet? What did you charge or what did warranty pay? I am doing one today because the battery cable rotted off of the starter motor. It is turning out to suck as bad as I imagined but the first one always does. BTW the 14300 harness is the battery.charge harness that is bolted across the front bottom of the engine.

Just some reasonable deduction here: Refrigerant spec for the diesel is 1lb 11 oz. so it was properly charged. I find in my shop between three machines that they do not necessarily measure a charge or recovery accurately. Hard to quantify a "shit ton of air" with a recovered full charge on a system that was likely never opened after the vehicle was built.

First one sounds like you narrowed it down to the clutch coil nicely but like my original post, remove the convolute from the clutch coil harness take out and give both wires a good tug. Just to be sure. I have now had three of these where where one or both of the wires broke right where the take out exits the main harness. I believe there is also an SSM for this too. Maybe plug in a good strong light (not a test light) and load test the clutch coil circuits first while pulling and testing the harness - wiggle test. Sorry to be repetitive. The second I have seen twice where the high and low side pressures were high. Ended up being the expansion valves were stuck. Evacuating the system on both, pulling a vacuum and then recharging corrected the condition but I did replace the TXV on both trucks. There was no debris in either as well, perfectly clean. All were 2017's. HTH

The grooves on the rotating cylinder between the ports are machined there. You will find them with all of those swashplate pumps

I don't even know where my ball hones are any more. I think they are in the back of my garage at home. To answer your question obviously I don't run a hone down the cylinder after that statement but oddly enough the cylinder walls on engines I have had apart still had good cross hatch marks. Once the ridge is cleaned up and the piston removed I will remove the oil and wipe the cylinder with red scotch brite following the cross hatch to break the glaze. I suppose that a hone would be best and would aid in breaking in and seating the new piston and rings. Oddly enough all of the engines I have made such a repair to have been 6.0L

Welcome to the DTS! With regard to piston replacement due to damage I have done this several times over the years.Yes it can only be done with no cylinder wall damage as you stated, but you also need to consider the age and condition of the engine. On the ones I repaired they were all due to a failed injector in one instance and the others were instances where foreign objects got in during repairs... like a small bolt or nut. when the engine is lucky the object gets embedded into the piston and stays there or ends up stating in the valve or somehow passes. Replace everything related to the cylinder: piston, rod, rings, cylinder head or there is no damage to the head replace the valves and check the sealing while the head is on the bench. Marking compound is useful for that and of course there nothing wrong with have a machine shop do it and check the head while they have it.

Well that sucks. I see people with their phones in their faces all the time. Look in the rear view mirror and you can spot one of these assholes immediately. About a month ago I was in bumper to bumper traffic and was completely stopped. The jerk behind me tapped my rear bumper. I got out (in NJ fashion) and put my face in his window... had his phone in his hand. No real damage so we shook hands and went on. I gave him shit about the phone... I really should have grabbed it from him and threw it.

Want to come to Jersey?

Sad day in town here in Mount Olive New Jersey - an out of town school bus filled with 5th grade students and seven adults was rear ended by a heavy dump truck. The collision tore the body off of the chassis and left it on it's side in the median. Closed Interstate 80 all day and still closed this evening. One child and one teacher were killed and all but three of the remaining 40+ people were injured many critically. It is never a good thing when someone dies on our highways but when it involves children your heart just sinks, especially if you are a parent. This sent a chill down my spine when the news started to come in with few details. I read a comment today that these buses are designed to do this in accidents like this? I have never heard of that - anyone know if this is true? The poop is the bus driver missed their exit and made an illegal u-turn at one of those police turn around points that cross the median. That would explain the violent impact if the bus was barely moving as it just turned into the fast lane. Stupid!

I cut them as well if they are really difficult. I have a ratcheting box wrench that usually works but space and swing room is limited. Good or bad I really don't do many shocks on E-series to begin with.

The 3.0L Coffee Table Book has been added to the DTS collection. For those without access to the PTS website our collection can be found right here -----> http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/coffeetablebooks.html/

I will add it to the collection soon!

With the sequence of varying repair procedures for the recall ending up with the remaining vehicles being repaired with an updated coupler and a scatter shield have fun determining what parts to order or if you can get the ones you need if repairs are required later on. I have a customer that ran over something resulting in the rear section of his 3 piece shaft being dented and bent. This caused a nice resonation above 42 MPH. So you cant get parts of a shaft... gotta buy the whole thing. Cant get a shaft set up for a coupler... new parts supposedly have universal joints on the front connection. So now the new coupler and shield I just installed are no longer of any use. I will need to replace the output flange on the trans. No big deal right? Cant order one. YAY Ford!