Keith Browning

Non issue with new parts.

I gave some thought to this once and like you went looking for references about assembly in the manual and came up with nothing. The bridges are a dimensionally symmetrical part with no markings indicating position or orientation therefore "we" can come to the conclusion that it makes no difference with regard to the markings that are there... all you need to know (and you seem to) is to reassemble the engine the way it came apart to preserve wear patterns. Even then, I suspect little would ever come from tossing the bridges into a parts bucket and pulling them out at random and installing them. Not that we would do that.

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that I measured it the last time I used it and it is indeed 3' in length and SHOULD be on the end of the hose.

This is also that time of the year we see a lot of people at the gas stations just carelessly pumping air into their car tires because they "look low."

Truth be told that crate was sitting in the shop for a couple of weeks where our parts delivery crates and large shop equipment gets left. I went looking tor the tools when I read this thread. Sometimes the peeps I work with are oblivious or just too busy to remember everything that gets piled upon their desks... like the packing slip and invoice. IF I didn't go looking ot would probably still be sitting there.

If you get stuck in that YOU ARE stuck!

Yes... the LCF models

An old customer who had strayed, tried another dealer and was not happy there ended up at the dealer that just closed. Both had either not found the problem with this 2004 Econoline 6.0L that is blowing coolant from the degas bottle and lacks heat. Long story short the truck has a new EGR/Oil cooler and thermostat as of six months ago. Since the last dealer that missed it is now closed, it is back home, and in my damn service bay. AT IDLE the coolant will slowly bubble up and flow out of the bottle, a little at a time. Rev it up and the coolant aerates. I checked for CO2 with my sniffer and detected nothing. Even so, I proceeded to test the EGR cooler as not to skip over it. I have no leak down with the Radkitplus but my temperature spread EOT/ECT is 26 degrees AT IDLE. (air pocket I presume) I proceeded to inspect the water pump and the thermostat... just to be sure I don't miss anything and discovered the t-stat not fully closing. I replaced it but that had no affect on the condition. Still with me? Sounds like a crack in the engine or head gaskets but who has ever heard of head gaskets on one of these leaking AT IDLE? At this point I am sure it has to be base engine related but why no CO2? It runs fine and is not burning coolant either. I thought about this and decided to recheck for CO2 but this time I had someone power brake it and after squeezing the bulb on the tester for about 20 seconds my tester fluid turned from blue to green indicating CO2... on most instances it still turns yellow but green is a positive result for diesels. The truck is out of warranty so now I wait for the go ahead to pull the engine. Fuck me! I am already behind the clock. Weird or what? I am curious as to what I am going to find here!

Same here, I just unloaded our pallet and put 8 tool boxes on a bench in my shop. Haven't gone through them yet either and I need to figure out where to store them.

Sheeeeooot! I cut my teeth on a few of them. That was back in the day when you could and had to test injectors on the bench. Many of them had nothing resembling a spray pattern and I always had problems with getting the fuel return collars on the injectors to stop leaking.

Yeah the economy is still pulling dealers down around here in NJ too as we lost another within the last two weeks which makes the count for my area about 5 that have shut down. Another close to us had all but gone out of business finding some money to stay afloat only to sell out to another dealer group last week Jim, have there been a lot of dealer closings in Canada?

My FSE is in training as we speak.

Correct. If you cannot run the engine and run the power balance test to try narrowing it down to a cylinder you must perform the balloon test... err... that test only works with a REALLY bad injector. We have discussed removing the secondary filter, topping off the housing and watching for air bubbles in the fuel while cranking. THEN, removing glow plugs one by one will help identify the offending cylinder. If you have misfire codes for one bank or power balance indicates multiple cylinders on one bank start there.

Golly Gym, why didn't you attach them yerself? Here is the supplement and a maintenance thingy...

Umm... 39 PSI is a little high. Current calibrations start doing things to slow the turbo and de-rate the engine approaching 26 PSI and even with a stock calibration and a stuck turbo I personally have never seen more than 30-32 PSI a few years ago with older calibrations. I would suspect a non-OEM calibration in this truck then I might test the turbo.

Update. I got no useful information from any of them. Only 6 replied and out of them I either got "we don't sell insurance in your state " or "please contact a service representative to discuss your insurance needs" or something to that effect. I guess it comes back to discussing this issue with your insurance carrier.

Perhaps Ford rebuilt their stock on these? It was Summer that last time I needed one so anything is possible. The problems that they were short on cores. We offered to send the one we had in to be "repaired" and they wouldn't do it.

Not knowing what operations were claimed it is hard to say why this was an issue... unless you tried to claim the 5 hours for R&R EGR cooler as a stand alone repair... with the engine already apart. Some Ops you could have used instead: [*] 6051A20 - Replace EGR Cooler (0.2) [*]M-Time to bench test EGR cooler off vehicle (realistically worth .5 for set up and soak time) I am not saying YOU did this but we also need to recognize the other side of the coin that there may legitimately be things that we claim that do not apply, overlap or are just plain wrong. I have seen this in my own dealership.

Thanx for the update!

That is the big question. I have an idea though --->

Tell them THEY are not the manufacturer and that the manufacturer's times are light. Use Motors, Alldata, whatever. I use factory times PLUS 30%

Looks like a 6.0L according to the spec sheet. Looks like an Isrealy military vehicle. Imagine running the Gaza strip under RPG fire and one of the dummy plug o-rings blow.

6.4L Torque Adapter Kit Tools used for 6.4L WSM procedure 303-04D to torque: Turbocharger, inlet pipes, exhaust manifold, EGR-OC pipe 1 - 11mm allen head socket, 3/8 drive. 1 - 10mm 12 point deep socket, 1/4 drive. 1 - 10mm to 1/4 drive GearWrench socket adapter. 1 - 12mm allen head socket, 3/8 drive. 1 - GearWrench 10mm/12mm half-moon shaped ratcheting wrench. 1 - GearWrench 11mm/13mm half-moon shaped ratcheting wrench. This is an old post and the kit price is likely not good anymore... you will have to ask for the kit as I don't think it is actually a listed tool. Otherwise, you could obtain the tools separately.

Something isn't quite right here. I had a truck that would start cold once a day but after that it would not fire, no sync. It would fire with an alternate fuel source. Long story short, the CMP sensor on the left was deformed by rust buildup on the block that pushed the sensor tip away from the block causing a weak signal. FYI: The engine does not need to be running to scope the CMP and CKP sensor signals.

Yes I do. He is Jim's dog.