Keith Browning

Oh the humanity! Such brutality! I sometimes feel like doing that to a valve when it won't come out. Are you aware that not only are the parts of your broken EGR puller warrantyable through Rotunda AND that the EGR puller has been redesigned and beefed up significantly? I would ask your service manager to take care of that tool problem you have. We have discussed this topic HERE And welcome to the DTS!

That would be correct. I was thinking about this last night and realized that I have for the most part been working only on diesel trucks. I have never sat in or driven, let alone worked on the following Ford products since the 2003 model year: Escape, F150, Explorer, Expedition Focus, Fusion, Edge, 500/Taurus, GT and the last two incarnations of Mustangs. I apologize for the mini high-jack. Now back to our topic...

What the hell is an Escape?

First, Welcome to the DTS. Second, there are many topics on this. You will discover that this crowd often takes a topic and adds a lot to it... with that said, try the search function and be specific, using parenthesis helps the search work better. Try searching "coolant loss" "puking" "coolant overflow" but most importantly you need to spell coolant correctly. You might even try looking for the relevant TSB numbers. We have even discussed the diagnostic procedure and the scenario you described is not all that common but it does happen. Sooooo, to answer your question, yes, you may indeed need to replace the EGR and oil coolers and then diagnose/discover a head gasket issue. Trust me, there is a lot on this here!

These diagnostic sheets are required for all diesel repairs. Period. Ford has been laxed on this for some time but if push comes to shove you will lose a dispute if the forms are not filled out and included with the paperwork.

Three tips for using M-time: [*]Use separate punch times for each M-time operation - punch onto a separate flag for removal of an item and off when done, repeat when reassembling [*]Be descriptive and explain exactly what the M-time request is for. You should even mark your time flags with an "M" and write your request/write up neatly on the bottom of the repair order WHERE IT CAN EASILY BE SEEN. [*]know when to say when - many dealers are high on M-time claims which is no surprise with all of the M-time TSB's. Claim it only if you REALLY need to. M-time is there for us to use and is anticipated with certain jobs such as cab off repairs for example. In theory you shouldn't be charging a customer to disconnect or remove things to perform a warranty repair. Ford will pay to do so. It is the warranty policy nightmare we are currently experiencing you need to be concerned about. If you follow procedure and include supporting documentation you will be fine.

There was an SSM on this, the cable is to prevent damage to the Panasonic Tough Book USB ports from the cables being pulled on. As mentioned they have a screw that secures the cable to the tablet.

Connector C100 should be attached to a bracket on the left shock tower. Was your truck left in disarray by a another tech?

We had a service adviser that owned a Focus with a stick. He had our accessories installer put in an alarm with a remote start - they omitted the neutral safety device that goes around the shifter to ensure the vehicle is in neutral. I recall the discussion clearly when he insisted that the shifter switch was not necessary, and I quote: "C`mon guys, what do you think, I am stupid?" Less than a week later the car was bouncing around in a parking spot as it cranked, bounced off customer's cars and would not start and retried a couple of times. I heard the dumb ass tried to open the driver's door for what reason is beyond me, all he had to do was hit the button on his key fob.

Brad you should have told him to check the STC fitting.

I had a long chat with my FSE today - I mentioned this topic and he advised me of a known concern involving connector C110 at the left front shock tower. If you have any type of regen or EGT issue bring up all of the PIDS for DPF and EGT's and perform a wiggle test paying attention to this connector. Disconnect and inspect for loose and pushed out terminal pins causing erratic signals.

You should have wrote "forddoctorsdts.com" under the hood with a Sharpie pen. I recall a topic from earlier this year there were pictures of that Air Force tow vehicle. The DPF was gone as were the EGR coolers.

I know we tossed this topic around but I don't think we came up with much on this. I was using a manual the other day and noted references to "low sulfur" in places, even in the wiring diagrams. These were 2009 manuals. I just saw a google ad on the Diesel Mentor directory and checked it out. It's an export fleet dealer in Texas. http://www.grandprairieford.com/fleet/commercial-truck-exports.htm

Pictures of tacos? Eaaaaaasy there!

Define resealed? I had a tech working with us that replaced the fittings and replaced the o-ring on the regulator plug... the truck never started again with that pump on the truck. U suspect he got debris in the pump.

Not at all and your post is on the money. It doesn't matter what you are working on, the vehicle should be 100% - correctly assembled, repaired, and as clean as presented. This sounds like a workmanship issue and it is the kind of story that makes us all in the industry look bad. I am sure it happens in the CAT world too, no? The devil is in the details. I would be embarrassed to turn in a completed job like that.

I am sorry but a taco without lettuce at the very least is just not a taco. I am not sure what that thing in the picture is but as Andrew Zimern on the travel channel says, "if it looks good, eat it!"

From the DTC's you probably have two separate problems, both of which are not uncommon, together or alone. The first set of DTC's could be the result of a sticking VGT - I would slap the test sensor on it and perform the VVT test. The second pair of DTC's could be a high pressure oil leak becoming evident. Sometimes deteriorating dummy plug seals cause intermittent power loss, check engine lights and crank no start conditions. STC fittings can do nutty things if the loosen or the o-rings are just starting to fail. Check the repair history to see if either have ever been serviced. If not you can have both apart in a few hours...

Did you get them all right?

For some reason I thought a bracket was included in one of the 6.4L tool kits but apparently I must have been smoking something. I looked but did not find. I *think* I have a rear lifting bracket that came with a line engine I installed. It did not make it back onto the returned engine. I too have a 6.0L bracket as well as the thick bracket that comes with the engine lift adaper. I seem to recall the one for the 6.4L haveing an offset bend to it, i could be wrong there too. If we look in the service manual it lists the universal lifting bracket with a tool number from 1970. A quick trip into the RTTP site and you will find a better version of the universal lifting brackets: 4000 lb Capacity Lifting Brackets OTC7100 $36.54

Bruce that engine in the picture looks like a Ford training engine with the manila tags with numbers on them. Most training courses have hands on exercises and a worksheet - name or match or find the components by number or letter.

We had a few CRHA actuators that we were unable to move right out of the box too. They were NOT the coated and heat treated housings though so I don't think that is what was causing it. We sent back two or three and one we smacked around a little and it freed up. Me thinks the problem was related to the actuator piston, seal or bore. The accepted wisdom is that those actuators should be quite easy and free to move. Remember the "magnet test?" It seems we simply had a run on these bad apples. Maybe they shipped them north of the border...

Of course you could simply pour some oil into the oil feed hole while spinning the the shaft by hand... just before you install the turbo. For crying out loud!

Seems to be fine now.

Well the setting of the parameters could be worth a fee but only for your labor... and what about people wanting to upgrade after the fact and try to "add" it in sneaky fashion by having the option added on the sly? Make a separate key fob as the option and price them at a few hundred bucks, charge the customer for the module configuration pay the tech time to enable the feature, program the fobs and check the system.