Keith Browning

Truck has one almost new battery and one very new battery. The VERY new battery had loose terminal clamps at both posts and BOTH batteries had dirty terminals on the inner part where contact is made. I cleaned all four and secured them. So far the shutting down has subsided... another recheck tomorrow will make me feel better that I solved it. The newness of the batteries suckered me into thinking there was no problem there. Then I went a lookin. Another example of "CLEAN POWER!"

Here Brad, I got your back! It seemed like the dowels were causing the problem according to the tech doing this. I can't remember what the cover looks like since the last one I had off was an engine, did not look at this one close up. I guess when we get the cover back off we will work this out. Thanx!

Exactly.

I meant to bring this up when the Hot Sheet was put out and I forgot, today my Motorcraft distributor was asking me about this. Apparently info on this new trans fluid is scarce? Apparently it can be used in place of Mercon SP and is compatible (can be mixed) and MUST now be used in place of SP on all Torqshift transmission repairs under warranty. There is no mention that Mercon Sp is to be discontinued. I am also wondering if this fluid is for the new transmission coming in the 2011 Super Duty? Anyone? Buhler? Buhler? Anyone?

I concur.

Yes, as a matter of fact I also replaced the CMP knowing that we have had troubles with thew new ones as well.

Anybody have any experience resealing rear engine covers on these? We pulled the transmission on one and replaced the seals and rear main and discovered that putting the cover on it pushes the middle of the pump cover gasket inward. This results in a bigger oil leak. We tried installing the cover like you would a 6.0L but for some reason shoving the top up in first and bringing the bottom up and in does not work well.

1999 F450 7.3L 6-speed ZF. Intermittently comes and goes: Trans in NEUTRAL, tap the accelerator to make the RPM's rise about 1500 and the engine smoothly but immediately stalls. I later noticed that when this is happening, if I press down on the accelerator the engine also shuts down as the RPM's rise past approximately 2000 RPM. The engine starts right back up and it runs well otherwise. Oddly, I discovered that if I turn the ignition off and then back to run before the engine completely stops spinning it WILL catch and idle. No DTC's. All parameters appear to be in the normal expected range. Passes KOEO, KOER and Injector electrical self test. Fuel pressure is 40. It acted much like a sticking IPR so I looked in that area... it now has a new IPR, a known good ICP sensor and for giggles I installed my test IDM. No dice. The only thing that I *THINK* may provide a clue is that the LOAD PID goes to 0% and fuel delivery changes significantly, don't recall off hand... I should make some recordings to share. At this point I am stumped... haven't contacted the HotLine yet and thought I would run this past you fellas. Any thoughts?

Yes Bruce. Late last year service parts and production engines no longer run coolant through the EGR valve and they come with instructions to rerout the degas hoses. I attached the 6.4L EGR Valve Replacement Job Aid for you. Enjoy!

I won't consider it "factory installed" until it is designed into the vehicle and installed as an option during assembly at the plant. That means the module and wiring is PART OF THE VEHICLE. This might also lead to being able to ADD THE SYSTEM at the dealer in similar fashion as say the upfitter switches and the integrated trailer brake controls system. Mount the module and plug in a harness type of deal or even INTEGRATE the remote start with one of the modules like the smart junction block or the vehicle security module which would be the most cost effective and easiest way to do it. This is so easy its stupid!

You mean a bad casting?

The FICM flash works wonders on the LCF's too. I have reflashed a few trucks over the last year or so that I though for sure were going to get a couple injectors - one ran so bad I was stunned that it started and ran nearly perfect afterward.

It would be interesting to get some first hand opinions on this stuff.

That sounds like you have someone working there that "does not give a shit." That is the problem you need to address. I can live with people who make mistakes because we ALL make mistakes, myself included. I used to get pissed at my parts guys but some time back I realized that was not helping matters because the guy(s) having problems at least cared. I try my best to be helpful and patient and it helps... but if a guy needs a kick in the ass then you need to, well, you know.

I am speechless. It MUST be a SLTS special tool.

Well you can't blame the parts guys if all you ask for is a "fuel pressure regulator" because that is the description of the IPR valve in the parts listing. When I ask for an actual fuel pressure regulator I ask for a "fuel pressure regulator kit... the one with the o-rings and the spring that is mounted on the fuel filter housing." Otherwise I too still get an IPR.

Oh now you went and done it. I can smell a new special service tool to flush IPR's coming our way.

Sorry Bruce, he originally had this posted in the 6.0L forum and I moved it to here. Jim, the fuel pressure regulator kit you are looking for fits all 6.0L engines 2003 through 2007 (F-Series?) so there may be an extra piece or two depending on the year. 3C3Z-9T517-AE

Okay, THIS is what I wanted to know Gent's. The HotLine simply retyped what I read in the service manual... I was looking for impressions or specifics on actual temperature output. Mind you , I first have never gone looking to observe this option and it is not all that cold here yet. But going by what you guys are saying 3 to 4 minutes to feel some warmth is right in line. I will be checking these out in the future for sure. In the end, it looks like the customer's expectations exceeds the AHCM specifications. To be honest I find the lack of heat a little disappointing considering that is what this auxiliary heater is supposed to provide. Shoot! The damn thing draws 90+ amps you would expect some decent heat out of it.

On 2008 and newer Super Duties with the Axillary Heater (AHCM) just how quickly are these things supposed to start feeling warm and just how warm do they get? Got one in that the customer states that the heat is not instant. I don't expect instant heat but is 3 or 4 minutes too much time? There are no DTC's in any module and watching the AHCM pids I can see that it is working - has voltage and draws 90 to 100 amps.

HotShotsSecret.com Anybody ever hear of or use this stuff? Apparently this was developed for International to clean sludged injectors and reduce stiction. Sounds good but we all know about magic genies in a bottle.

I concur with looking for a high persue oil system leak. The P2614 and P2617 DTC's when set together have always proven to the the RESULT of a stalling condition or a hard starting concern. In cases where o-rings are deteriorating they will reach a point when they just start to cause problems - problems that will be intermittent. Loose STC fittings will also exhibit screwy behaviors too. I either case they will get worse. Unfortunately you really need to simply go hunting and this being a van absolutely inspect every seal under the valve covers including the oil manifold, dummy plugs, standpipes and the injector inlets... assuming you get that far. As I recall the cooler can stay put.

My gripe is the pricing. Doesn't anyone stick to list price anymore? I consider that fair. Seems that most of the time we quote a price it is considerably higher than list. Ask a different counter man and you will get another price. Ask the front counter and get yet another. Seriously, we lose jobs because they cost too much now. The term "pricing ourselves out of business" is not too far off.

Yeah, those bling'ed out Escalades look might-t fine spinning down routes 1 & 9 in a nor'easter ricocheting off the guard rails.