Keith Browning

Yeeeehyeahhhh. no.

Of course that would be optimal however this is an aging ambulance. Either way it will be labor intensive. Looking at options on this unit to be re purposed or dumped.

Can it be done easily in chassis? I cant even remember if I have ever done one. Trans out? Turbo off? Jack the engine up high enough?

YES! Tool number please?

Quick Connect fuel lines? I know those are Knipex.

Well the beginning of your post certainly points to wiring issues which is likely taking out your ability to communicate whether it's directly affecting network circuits or pulling a module off line. Remember that your terminating resistors are in the PCM and the BCM. You could approach this initially in one of two ways: Diagnose the network problem from the diagnostics in the WSM section 418-00 or repair all of the electrical issues you have and see what you have once that is all cleared up. I personally would look at the electrical a little closer again. If there were multiple fuses blown find something common... And you don't have access to... what? PTS? If so what can we possibly get for you?

I guess it comes down to that anyone at any time can accidentally blow their fuses. This even applies to the most confident and competent of us because that usually leads to complacency. Yes, I assumed that since I am the only person using my meter and "I know what I am doing" that it didn't even dawn on me to suspect the meter's fuse. But I am am still confused as to why I was still getting a reading. I would think that the meter would not show anything at all. Live and learn... even after 30 years you can still make mistakes.

Didja know that an air leak after the MAF sensor can cause a P207F and no other codes? Apparently some of those air intake resonators have been broken off and glued back on... with pieces missing causing air leaks. Have fun with that shit!

I kinda agree with Chris about the ICP sensor and probably the pigtail for good measure if not already done. While there is some saw tooth pattern here the signal looks more erratic than anything else. This would be less expensive and less intrusive than a pump right off the start before condemning the pump which you cant rule out. By the way, once you commit to removing and opening up the pump you are pretty much going to have to replace it unless you find nothing wrong and can get it back together without having problems.

es I do now. Bruce told me to connect to the mA connections and place the dial on voltage... if the meter beeps the fuse is good.

With those pumps the ICP voltage is usually the tip off but I had also noticed in recordings made during road tests a lack of power with high IPR numbers and ICP less than desired. The only sure way is to remove the pump and remove the cover and rotating assembly to inspect it. This screenshot was a bad pump while cranking.

I can wrap this one up. Borrowed a meter, which gave much different readings than mine. Changed the battery. Nope. Removed and tested the fuses. My 10 amp was blown so why was I still getting a reading? New fuse, starts a 900 mA and then drops to 8 mA after 20 minutes.

Mike I have run into that fault before - the system overcharges because that circuit loses it's integrity and of course you know why as you mentioned. I have attempted repairs to that circuit several times but it's usually difficult due to the lack of working room. My fix is to cut that circuit 2" from the connector on the alternator, splice in 6" of 20 gauge fusible link and an eyelet. I neatly retape the harness to look normal and then connect the eyelet to the alternator b+ post. I really hate that lower harness that wraps around the engine. All they needed to do was wrap the wiring in tape properly (and completely) and we would not see these problems. Funny how more often than not it's the battery sense circuit that chafes.

The more I think about this I am beginning to wonder if my meter is off. This is now three vehicles in the last month that have given me essentially the same reading with this test. I am going to borrow a meter and see what I get. It may be time to send my meter off to Fluke to be checked and calibrated if it is off. Boy if this is the case I am going to be pissed about the wasted hours spent diagnosing this.

If I am not mistaken President Trump stated that he was going to ease the emissions regulations. I don't know how much cleaner they can make cars and trucks with internal combustion engines at this point. Electric cars are coming of age though not quite cheap enough for the masses yet.

My test on a stock unit revealed the same results! 185 mA draw after 40 minutes which was still 183 mA this morning. I left the test set up overnight. I contacted the Hot-Line. I want to see what they say. The plot thickens.

The Mustang is a coupe not a sedan but maybe they are planning a 4 door Mustang. My Fusion lease is up in less then a year from now and I can roll into a new lease in December or January. I love my Fusion and yes, I want to go with another plug-in hybrid. Leasing makes it super affordable especially with D-Plan pricing, the rebates and incentives but maybe I need to consider purchasing it or buying it at the end of the lease. The Fusion qualifies as an "electric" car and if I bought it instead of leasing I would have gotten another $4008 rebate on my taxes that year... $37000 car would have effectively cost me $19000. THe big rebate is only applicable if you purchase it at the start and not buying out the lease.

The back story is that this unit does not see daily use and it may go as long a 10 days before they need it. There was mention of the dash being seen illuminated out in the lot by officers walking by. If this is true it indicates something is going on which is what I am monitoring for at the moment. Hence my post because this is not the first time I have seen this draw. One of the next steps is to check a stock unit to see what a bare stock Transit shows as a shut down draw. If this turns out to be related to any of the upfit equipment I will suggest either an isolator switch or a charger/shore line be implemented depending on what I find.

Welcome back to the rat race!

I think it's too high as well but I have heard other guys saying they have seen more then 50 mA and the hotline tells them its okay. So that is why I am asking. This is a police paddy wagon by the way with whirligigs and sirens, a PC and a two sided prisoner module in the back. Time has nothing to do with it, fixing the truck is the priority so I have plenty of time to complete the isolation process.

Of course I am. Ford states 40 minutes. The reading on the meter above? 24+hours. Interesting - never thought of that. Would be useful for determining the discharge time for the customer. Unfortunately Ford does not publish amp hour data anywhere I can find. The battery in this particular truck is a Motorcraft BXT-48H6-610

Also called parasitic drain testing, the test helps you identify and diagnose electrical drains that discharge the battery. For many years the WSM has stated that the maximum current draw on a battery should be no more than 50 milliamps and to this day the current WSM's state this. But I have noticed lately that on late model vehicles like a 2015 F150 and a 2017 Transit, the battery draw after shut down is around 170-185 milliamps. Batteries do not discharge for the amount of time the vehicles are in for service, sometimes for weeks. So what have the rest of you been seeing for amperage draws? Here are some of the notes from the Battery Drain Test Procedure: NOTE: No factory-equipped vehicle should have more than a 50 mA (0.050 amp) draw. Check for current drains on the battery in excess of 50 mA (0.050 amp) with all the electrical accessories off and the vehicle at rest for at least 40 minutes. Current drains can be tested with the following procedure. NOTE: Many electronic modules draw 10 mA (0.010 amp) or more continuously. NOTE: Typically, a drain of approximately 1 amp is attributed to an engine compartment lamp, glove compartment lamp or interior lamp staying on continually. Other component failures or wiring shorts are located by selectively pulling fuses to pinpoint the location of the current drain. When the current drain is found, the meter reading falls to an acceptable level. NOTE: To accurately test the drain on a battery, use an in-line ammeter between the negative battery post clamp and its respective cable. Use of a test lamp or voltmeter is not an accurate method.

Just when you think that you have made it out alive they suck you back in!

The ICP voltage looks real crappy even saw tooth looking. Whenever I see THAT on an early 6.0L its usually the HPOP. What has been replaced on this engine? If it is the pump it's likely the swash plate housing has loosened and is rotating in the pump housing. And one pump had a cracked rotating cylinder.

It also would think that with a few dealers to chose from you can really make a choice instead of just finding a place to work.