Keith Browning

Cetane tipped us off to a video about the 2011 Super Duty at a truck pull. I don't see any billowing smoke and it looks like it hooked up nicely too. And as you could imagine there are idiots looking to mod these things already.

Larry what search term did you use?

I bought a 50" high definition flat screen TV and a Seal Point Himalayan kitten.

Both the Ford Technical Service Hot-Line and the parts Hot-Line came up empty handed. We were told to replace the harness if the GPCM connectors require replacement. Of course I spent time lookng for, and found this and making this post without realizing Larry had also found it. Thank you Larry. See? I am NOT crazy. There are people who disagree but I knew this TSB was out there! The part number is in the TSB - 4C3Z-12B568-AA Now I need to find out if this part number is still good and if it is available. I assume that the kit contains only one connector and if I recall it is only available in black. I attached the TSB below.

I could swear I read an SSM or something about replacement Glow Plug Control module connectors being available for repair... something related to heat damage. I need a part number for both the black and green connectors or pigtails. Connectors C1273a and C1273b These are NOT in the Motorcraft pigtail kit charts.

If that is the part from the other thread we punched it in and the description and picture was for the crankcase vent on the valve cover.

I didn't sync the colors between the threads... point is I need the one with the red arrow in the picture above. I gave this picture to my parts guy and he thinks he has it now. 6E7Z-6881-D

We discussed a similar part issue in this area but I am not sure this is the same. The picture below is of the oil filter housing and adapter. The oil port where the turbocharger oil line inserts is cracked. We are having difficulty figuring out which part this actually is... the listing is broken down but says serviced in a kit. Right. The RED arrow is that part I need. The green arrow is the ADAPTER I believe we discussed in this topic --> http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=12648#Post12648 The Navistar numbers on the label are 32177C93 and 1150072R3 described as "Fuel/Oil Filter Assembly" which we are sure has a basic part number of 6881. The part listing sucks. Any help would be immensely helpful!!!

Yeah, I read that too and we know from experience that low oil levels in the reservoir will cause no-starts and this type of concern... the reservoir isn't empty. It WAS about 2-2.5 inches down the one time I checked. My thinking is that the pump still has prime and will start but then the oil aerates and the engine stalls. Then you only need to crank maybe 5 to 10 seconds and it then reluctantly starts, runs rough then eventually smooths out. My experience with this has historically been EMPTY reservoirs. I last ran the truck Wednesday. When I get a break in the rain I will check it again before starting. If the level is low again I will fill the reservoir before starting to see it that cures the symptom. The real problem is that if I am only losing a relatively small amount of oil detecting the source of the leak may be impossible to do... so which parts do you start looking at first? Which part am I going to tell the customer to throw at it... which may be the only way to figure this one out. If I am going to guess I would like that guess to be an educated and thoughtful one.

It is a 1995 PSD that will fire off on the first cycle of the they and then stall. Then it has to crank a little to re-fire. No DTC's, glow plugs draw 95 amps per side, fuel pressure is 45+ while cranking... I have to let this truck sit for 2 days or more for this to occur but I checked the oil reservoir and the level was 2+ inches from the top which is low but not empty. It has been a while since I have seen this. Is 2+ inches enough to suspect a leak or drain back? I could pull the covers and inspect for oil leaking at the injectors or suspect the pump. I replaced the IPR about 500 miles ago for no start condition when hot. The o-rings were chewed up but the customer opted for the IPR.

Well when I was a young pup mechanic just knee high to a grasshopper (there weren't any stink bugs when dirt was still white) when wheels were still square and a burger and fries cost just a nickel... we used to have to drive 10 miles up hill in the snow backward to get to the parts store... WITH BALD BIAS PLY TYERS NO LESS!!!! You young-uns don't know how good you got it nowadays with your plug in power programers and snow tyers! Bet you have heat too... speakin of heat I remember when the Devil came around asking to borrow a ligher... Of course I noticed the full wheel wells in the rear and the traction rods and I am sure if it were daylight the roll cage would not be too difficult to pick out. But on a passing glance I would probably not give what appears to be a rolling pile of shit a second look.

Wow. That is one bad ass sleeper. The photographs really show how complex this car is. You would NEVER suspect what is hidden.

Any of you Gents see the M&M's candy ad that has just started showing on the forums here? They now offer your favorite NFL team on M&M's candy. You get 3 or four colors that match the team's colors with the logo on one, team name and one with the M on it. It looks cool but they cost $28.00 PER POUND! I have a close friend that works @ M&M Mars here in NJ not far from my house and she has worked in that department - custom print M&M candies - I never asked her now much they were though. If you see the ad click on it and check it out... and the DTS site gets paid when you click the ads... FYI. If you don't want to wait for the ad to show up here is the link - http://www.mymms.com/NFL/selling_page.asp?src=112983&sc_cid=112983

Good ideas Greg... Speaking of the fuel sensors I have seen quite a few fuel filter restriction <pressure switches> leak profusely but I think that sensor was deleted after 2007 model year engines. I would inspect all fuel system components in the engine valley closely with the engine running. I would suspect a fuel line o-ring has failed, most likely the steel line going from the filter housing to the back of the right cylinder head. A leak in the valley will exit the drain hole in the back of the engine valley and appear to come from the bell housing as will a leak at the rear of the right head. The o-rings are serviceable and if you determine that this is the cause of your leak get the o-ring kit and replace ALL of the o-rings at the same time. Another possible cause is the fuel water drain... but for that to cause a leak at the back of the engine the drain tube connected to the valve would have to be disconnected. It does happen and the valves do leak. ...yes, I have seen this before!

Are you jealous?

That's kinda my point, if you are going through the trouble of taking the nose apart and jacking the body up you may as well just lift the body. I guess by now everyone has their own way of doing things for one reason or another.

So you do a PARTIAL body off Josh? To get the front of the body high enough to put a 4X4 under it, you probably still need to access most or all of the body bolts, right? If not you are placing an awful lot of stress on the body. If you are going through the effort to access all the body bolts (which is the hardest part of body raising) you are pretty much there. I am also assuming you are removing the front end and the heat exchangers to pull the engine?

I better look at my time sheets a little closer. I thought 1.3 was wayyyyy too little.

I had a run in with a failed pump which I could not attribute any cause to. A fuel sample from the HFCM contained nothing but clean ULSD. The customer and truck had a good service history with us. Here's where it gets interesting. After contacting the Hot Line I took a sample of duel from the fuel test port on the fuel cooler. I got a load of black silt-like debris which we determined was from the failed pump. Somehow the warranty Nazis determined that this was evidence of contaminated fuel when in reality it was not. The pump MAY have been damaged by fuel quality but I could not prove it and neither could Ford as they never called the pump back as the claim was denied. We fought back four times thought the claims process and finally got the claim paid... EVERYTHING in the duel system was replaced and I spent a considerable amount of time flushing the fuel passages in the cylinder heads. If I recall this was close to an $8,000 repair. Moral of the story, be very careful in your diagnosis and more careful in how you word your comments on the back of the repair order. There is a catch though. Just because YOU don't find water or contamination in the delivery system there may be evidence in the high pressure system. We have discussed the subject of Ford denying claims after inspecting the failed pumps and finding water damage - i.e.: rust. You might want to look really close at the fuel lines at the connections and look for rust. If there is long term water exposure those lines will show rust. There is YOUR evidence - inspect and decide wisely.

Interesting. Very interesting.

Good point. I just noticed a good run on really low mileage trucks and it's not like one or two joints are loose or have rust coming out of them... lately it has been all four an each vehicle. Never mind measuring the deflection - they are loose! And they only pay what, 1.3? I know they aren't hard but they are not something I want to do all day for 1.3 thank you.

Would ya like to see some?

Am I the only one seeing a lot of 2008 Econoline ball joints failing at very low mileage? I am seeing upper and lower joints very loose at 9k-15k.

Now that you mention it you have a point and it didn't help that my eyes started rolling back in my head.

Not to break your stones but I remind you that all of these training courses are open book. Since the test opens in it's own window you can peruse the course while taking the test to find answers to the questions giving you trouble. I too found that course a little difficult but I did pass it. I DID have to stop the course and come back to it though. I started it late one night and the narrator started to sound like the teacher from the Snoopy cartoons speaking. When I returned it there was no improvement. For some reason that presentation is difficult to pay attention to though it is really no different than most of the other courses. Like I said, it is open book so if you are like me on this one plan on giving it some extra time and go hunt for the answers.