Keith Browning

Maybe Jim should invite Al Gore up to give a speech on global warming.

Which leads me to ask WHY would we want to see this engine before we HAVE to?

We are too - "shoot" pictures first, then ask if it's okay!

You mean these?

Where are you attending the training?

Heh, we could have some fun with the Diesel Stop crowd and this one. "It's an experimental tune"

Awesome! I just rolled out a belly laugh!

Thanx Jim. I fixed it.

I asked to take it home so I could concentrate on this. I also contacted Panasonic Support. My error code is #1082 - image file is invalid or corrupt" According to them the HDD is most likely on it's way out with some bad clusters. Makes sense - the PC copies the data from the disks then simultaneously runs the set up. If it reads data that was written on a bad cluster the installation fails. Unfortunately there is no system/hardware diagnostics built into the BIOS like an IBM computer has or at least mine did. I guess running the Windows disk check function before performing recovery would have been good advice. Not like bad clusters can be repaired though.

Drain tube not properly positioned? I did that once - I somehow pulled it back and cocked it while installing a turbo and it leaked pretty good.

Figured it out... hit F2 when booting up and change the boot sequence to start with the USB CD ROM and it loads. Now I have a new problem. Disk 3 has a corrupt file which halts the install at 90% and shuts the computer down. NOW I am fucked!

Outstanding idea Aaron!

Hopefully one of youze guyz has done this. I want to wipe our Toughbook clean and restore our Toughbook with the factory recovery disks - we have all 3. Now, I am pretty handy with a computer but disk one has no exe files or autorun function. I also don't see any utility in the Programs listed... I tried F2 and looking in the set up menu but I didn't see anything. Any advice?

I have learned by doing many of these that usually the silicone breaks and the rear cover gaskets usually don't pull out and stay put. But, as you learned this is not 100%. Even with the intake lifted and the EGR cooler out of the way getting in there with a blade of any sort is still a little difficult. What works well is a l o n g gasket scraper sharpened like a razor or the type of scrapers that holds a razor blade on the end. If you gently lift the front of the cover a little and then push the scraper back down each side under the cover you can cut the silicone nicely. One thing that also helps is to spray along the top of the cover around where the pump sticks through - this lubricates the o-ring and makes it easier to remove the cover - you need to get a small prybar or screwdriver under the cover and gently rock it up and down to work the rust penetrant into the o-ring and then it easily lifts off the pump. I suggest this because this allows you to control the removal of the cover as to not just rip it off which usually happens if you have to muscle it off... this method also works on the turbocharger oil feed line which likes to stick in the oil cooler housing.

I get the impression that cooling system maintenance records may become important where our customers are concerned - especially now that there is a TSB and an owners letter that was mailed out. I have discussed the idea of offering a cooling system check service to our customers. This could be a stand alone service that includes a system visual inspection, pressure test, freeze protection test, nitrite test and adjustments of level, strength and additive as necessary. Since all of our services include a Quality Care Inspection anyway, the coolant chemical tests and adjustments should also be included with say... a 15K service.

I have resigned to the fact that forcing the issue with the cover is not worth it. Some guys try to snake it out and bend things up in the process. I have determined that loosening all of the intake manifold bolts and suspending the manifold with bungee cords from the hood works well for me. I don't disconnect the harnesses except for the passenger side injectors and flip the injector harness to the FICM side AND I don't even remove the oil/fuel filter housing assembly. I then EASILY remove the EGR cooler and at this point you not only have room to simply lift the cover off but you can clean dirt and oil away from around the cover BEFORE REMOVING IT preventing the dirt from falling into the engine. MOST IMPORTANTLY, WITH THE EGR COOLER IN THE WAY YOU CANNOT CUT THE SEALANT WHERE THE REAR COVER, BLOCK AND OIL PUMP COVER ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE MEET. We all know by now that stretching those spaghetti gaskets WILL create an oil leak. I am all for short cuts when they work and don't compromise the repair.

If you can get your hands on the steel bracket we used to install before this new fitting was released, use it as a tool.

Right. And depending on your dexterity you can reach through that hole in the shield with your hand and a 1/4 ratchet and 5/16" socket. (that's am 8mm ratchet with an 8mm socket for you non-Americans) I did once get those shield bolts out from underneath the truck with a long extension and a swivel socket - I found the experience over rated.

I am taking a phrase and a lesson from Bruce's books in saying CLEAN POWER is something to remember. The idea is that dirty and loose power and ground connections can cause problems that you never would have imagined possible. Sure, we all know this, but it is always worth reinforcing. Yes, I just had a head scratcher... wait while I pull the rest of the concrete from my hair... Had me a 2000 F350 in with a flashing TCIL and P0720 in memory. Passes KOEO and KOER. Performed the appropriate pinpoint tests and no concerns found - workshop manual directs to replace the PCM which I didn't as I wasn't satisfied with that. Data logger and a road test revealed an erratic VSS signal but the DTC was for the OSS sensor. This happens if you get a VSS/OSS discrepancy. Again I look over the wiring and again I find nothing so I slapped a VSS in it and let it go after a good road test. Comes back a week later, same concern, same code, same test results. "Let's try an OSS sensor for shits and giggles." Ummm, nope. Then the truck starts doing strange things like the dome light going on and off, the engine bucks and dies (PCM reset) and the turn/hazard lights stop working. I snooped around in other modules, no DTC's but GEM B+ and VSS are so out of range it was insane! B+ 16-17 volts and VSS 80 MPH idling on the lift? Long story short, the main battery terminal, which had been replaced at some point was one of those two piece deals with a clamp and bolt on section. Well, it was tight on the battery post but both parts were not bolted tightly together. I took it apart and cleaned off all of the carbon from the arcing, serviced the terminals and verified the repair. Sometimes we need to look closer and not overlook basic things. I am not totally embarrassed so I thought I would share my story as a reminder. An occasional kick in the ass helps keep us thinking!

And Ford Makes Three: Diesel F-150 Delayed, May Get Cancelled From Motor Trend Magazine Posted Yesterday 11:00 AM by Scott_Evans Category: Auto News, Ford First it was GM, now Ford is following suit. Ford revealed today that a planned diesel option for the F-150 has been put on hold while Ford determines the best time to launch it. Ford cited cheap gas prices as a primary factor in the decision. "We're still looking at the appropriate time to do that," Ford's President of the Americas Mark Fields told Automotive News. "We've put it on the back burner for right now." Ford had originally planned to offer a 4.4-liter V-8 diesel engine in the F-150 starting next year, which reportedly offered more power and torque and 20% fuel savings over the gasoline-powered 5.4-liter V-8 currently offered. Now that the price of gas has slid to the $2-per-gallon range, Ford has delayed the launch of the diesel F-150 until the company determines that market conditions are right for it. An anonymous source told Automotives News that the diesel has been officially pushed back to 2013 and could be cancelled outright if gas prices don't rise above diesel prices for a substantial amount of time. With diesel versions of the Chevrolet Silverado 1500 and Dodge Ram 1500 also on hold, Ford had a chance to beat the other two to the market, but has apparently decided not to take advantage of the opportunity. For now, truck buyers looking for oil burners will have to continue to pony up the extra scratch for 2500/250 versions of the trucks. Source: Automotive News (Subscription Required)

With the release of TSB 09-8-5 and 09L04 I guess we need to have the test strips available. My dealer has never and any coolant test kits. Back in the day we simply added DCA with fresh coolant or at the recommended service intervals. Our customers NEVER asked about testing. With the gold coolant we (or at least I was) were told DCA was not needed. Now they tell us it is. Fine. I am cool with that but with customers being notified I am sure they are going to start asking. Time to get with it... I just ordered a bottle of test strips #328-00001 - 7 business days?!!! Who else uses these and is there a Motorcraft # or do we HAVE to use these test strips?

I had a trans out of a LCF but I have a lift for these trucks and the nuts were just as easy as the pick-ups.

That's a pretty fancy cup holder!

I have also layed awake in my bed wondering about things like that.