Keith Browning

Come to think of it my FSE expressed anxiety concerning the longevity of his employment last week. No details but it fits with what you are reporting. On the surface it doesn't sound good. You can say what you want about these guys, they do an important job.

I think I have only seen this a couple of times. Don't recall any details though.

Oh wow.

I recommend pre mixing the dye any time you are using it because it tends to take forever to mix with fluid on it's own... especially transmissions.

Yeah, you don't need anything special, you can use the same engine oil dye you use for oil leaks. I have done it and it works but the less fuel you have in the tank the better AND you need to pre mix the dye with a gallon of fuel or so and add it ti the tank that way, otherwise the dye will only coat the filler neck until the next time the truck gets fueled.

That's cool that they have a web site for them... yet, it's also a little strange.

Yes, the RADKITPLUSA is an air lift. I just think that the upside down install on the cooler makes it difficult to purge. If you have air in the system the fuel cooler pump will make noise.

An air lift actually worked? I'll have to try that, I figured it wouldn't do well because the hoses are at the bottom of the cooler.

First question: Yes. We have seen a number of strange things. I have been noticing that FICM failures do not always set DTC's, when they do, it can be anything from (just a P0611 and nothing else with dead misfires) to (any combination of circuit codes.) FICM failures in my opinion are mysterious because there are several driveability conditions they can cause and a bit of an enigma due to the fact that sometimes you get a lot of DTC's, and sometimes you get NOTHING. Checking all of the circuits is a good practice and using the steps in the TSB goes well beyond pinpoint tests P. If all check out good sometimes you are still left with a decision to make, or in some instances, a guess. This is where one of those home-brew noid lights become useful. Second question: You need a short 1/4" drive torx bit socket is what it comes down to. I took a Craftsman socket, removed the bit and ground about 1/3 of it off at the base and reinserted it in the socket. This would probably work with most 2-piece torx bit sockets depending on how they are assembled.

If you are only replacing the fuel filters you don't need to "bleed" at all. Simply cycling the key on six times for 30 seconds without starting the engine is all you need to do.

The service manual tells you to remove the front bumper and hang the cooler straight down. I found this to be unnecessary if your shop Has a pressurized cooling system flusher like the BG cooling system flusher. I disconnect the coolant hose at the turbocharger actuator and cap the cooler nipple. I connect that hose to the Coolant flusher hose. Then I remove the coolant bleeder plug that is on top of the turbocharger actuator. Fill the flusher with 50/50 mix of coolant and fill the system until the coolant and air come out of the bleeder. There is another topic on this where I mentioned that I put together a firring and hose to put in the bleeder and collect the over flow neatly and to watch the air bubbles.

Do you think it can help with LCF's and that whining they all have?

After inspecting everything and putting it back together with new seals I still had the same concern which I expected because there really were no failed seals but I did notice the block off seals starting to show signs of degradation. I dead headed the pump and tested both heads one at a time and with both connected with the injectors disabled, cranking I got over 4300 PSI. It was suggested I try a new IPR and recheck - then replace the HPOP if the concern still exists. It did. So I replaced the HPOP. It is now fixed. Bruce, I recall the IPR was at 32% hot idle which is a little high which was our only clue. It passed all testing so without any leaks I apparently had a volume issue with the pump.

I don't recall being told that in training but that doesn't mean much. I have an OTC stand and we use the universal adapter arms. I have used it for the 6.0L but not for the 6.4L... yet.

He he he he!

I looked at another Edge that was in the shop and I don't think I would want to do a water pump in chassis. It is not too tight but tight enough. Remember, you need to remove the valve covers and the front cover and both timing chains which need to be timed during assembly. I wouldn't want to make a mistake there boy! It seems similar to doing engine work on a 6.0 or a 6.4... it can be done in chassis, but I wouldn't want to if I had the choice. The tech said dropping the cradle with the engine and trans really isn't bad but he took his time on this one being that it was his first.

Quote: "Too much air flow".... an engine is only going to pass as much air as an engine is going to pass... Be it a stock air filter, one of the popular open weave mistakes or a pair of GrampyJims old underwear pants.... the only air going through the motor is going to be what the motor can inhale.... To add to Jim's reply the 6.4L uses the Throttle Plate during regen thus controlling the air going into the engine. The problem we previously faced with aftermarket intakes was that some of the filters actually caused turbulence that affected the MAF sensor which was giving us great trouble when the inferred EBP calibration was installed on modified trucks. Perhaps that is what you were thinking of? Quote: GrampyJims old underwear

My brother and I had a similar phrase: "And that is the beauty of aluminum! (If you cross the threads you can just make your own.)

Artificial Intelligence is no match for natural stupidity!

Since updating the forum software you may have noticed the Who's On Line feature has more information than it used to . I have been asked a few times what are spiders? Creepy, cralwy little bugs... just kiddin! A spider is a search engine web crawler. Here is a good explanation from Wikipedia: Quote: Web crawler (also known as a Web spider, Web robot, or—especially in the FOAF community—Web scutter [1]) is a program or automated script that browses the World Wide Web in a methodical, automated manner. Other less frequently used names for Web crawlers are ants, automatic indexers, bots, and worms. [2]This process is called Web crawling or spidering. Many sites, in particular search engines, use spidering as a means of providing up-to-date data. Web crawlers are mainly used to create a copy of all the visited pages for later processing by a search engine that will index the downloaded pages to provide fast searches. Crawlers can also be used for automating maintenance tasks on a Web site, such as checking links or validating HTML code. Also, crawlers can be used to gather specific types of information from Web pages, such as harvesting e-mail addresses (usually for spam). A Web crawler is one type of bot, or software agent. In general, it starts with a list of URLs to visit, called the seeds. As the crawler visits these URLs, it identifies all the hyperlinks in the page and adds them to the list of URLs to visit, called the crawl frontier. URLs from the frontier are recursively visited according to a set of policies. To add to this, when you see "Guests" or "Anonymous," those are people who have ventured to our forum portal and discovered they cant log in or any one of you fine Gents who arrive and log in. By the way, unless you are using a public computer you really don't need to log off.

My father had a 1981 Accord. He and my brother used to do all of his oil changes and usually at home in the garage. One day they put the floor jack under the cross member just under the engine to lift the car and the car did not move. It went through the cross member because it had rotted out in five years. He brought it to the Honda dealer and they immediately replaced it without hesitation. Mind you, we live in NJ where there is more salt on the road than a million Bloody Marys. I think a product should be able to withstand the environment and variances in the fluids put into it. (within reason) Like somebody mentioned, Chevy and Dodge tanks are not rusting.

Mind you, I stated the tanks look the same so if the steel is in fact galvanized, it only matters if the lining fails for any reason. I think the big debate or problem here is that the lining is failing. Ford states that bio-diesel and certain additives are attacking the linings exposing the steel. Add some moisture from the naturally occuring condensation and you get rust. From what I know from my customers, NONE of them are using bio-diesel or use additives of ANY kind. Here in NJ, bio-diesel is as far as I can tell is not distributed or available anywhere. If there are chemicals in the fuel itself that are harmful to the linings there is nothing the vehicle owners can do. In observing the many, many tank failures that have come to my dealership almost all of them appear to have suffered from insufficient lining material. We have only seen a handful of obvious lining de-lamination where large areas of lining have separated from the metal and clogged up the pick up screens or filters. In those cases I would agree that something has attacked the lining. From discussions with a few customers and from our commercial sales manager, customers are more angry about the way Ford Motor Company is handling this. They make the standard statement that tank failures are caused by the fuel and that they will not cover the failure and subsequent repairs - then turn a deaf ear to them. This is how theses vehicle owners feel and it will have an effect on sales and customer loyalty. We at the dealerships are caught in the middle. I sense that there are going to be a lot of fuel tanks that will need to be replaced. In that sense we will see some work coming through the doors.

I am sure nothing is beyond our abilities. Not having the necessary tools and documentation however is another matter entirely. Having never touched a Cummins engine except for training many years ago I respectfully decline since I would be working totally blind. Being able to look over a document such as this will at the very least provide some familiarity. I am sure when you break it down it is no different than a CAT or an International and so on and so forth, etcetera, etcetera.

We installed one yesterday and took a good look at it. Looks the same so it would suffice to say the change is indeed likely in the materials as reported.