Keith Browning

I don't think a collapse of the "American" auto industry will occur. You have to remember that there are support industries and many other businesses in communities that also would fail. Something would be worked out I imagine and perhaps not everyone will make it. Remember Ford went into their Way Forward plan years ago and have been bleeding money profusely, but they had a plan. Let us hope it is what saves them or keeps them alive and well. And Lew, I don't think your post got blown off I just don't think a lot of people know what to make of all this. My opinion is as individuals and as a country we need to suck it up a little bit, work a little harder, expect people to start doing the right thing, be responsible and hold them accountable.

When you use a pressure washer, where does the waste water go? Use carb cleaner and where do you rinse it or flush out the chemicals... not to mention the hydrocarbon laden carbon? I imagine this stuff is not only a real mess to deal with but it is also hazardous waste that needs to be controlled. Ever clean one in your parts washer? You wont be cleaning anything else in it after you get done. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/poke.gif When I "clean" an intake it is always in conjunction with an EGR replacement and it is limited to the mixer area. I remove the valve and the intake elbow and I stuff a rag down each runner then I scrape it down and suck the chunks with a vacuum. Then a I spray it down with combustion chamber cleaner and let it soak for a while. Then I scrub it down with a brush and rinse it with some more combustion chamber cleaner or Brakleen sopping the liquid up with shop rags (which the uniform company gets to clean) They usually come out pretty clean but this does neglect the cooler to valve passage. I rarely have issues but in a case like this one you do what you have to I suppose. I have heard the advice to pull the valve then start the engine but that makes more of a mess than anything else. I also think that leaves the potential for bad things to happen. I tried it once. The engine barely ran and I could not get any RPM's out of it. Now, I did pull an EGR valve apart and cut it up, then I welded some plates over the intake ports and cut the valve end off and welded it to the valve body... I never got around to welding the second plate but my intention was to use this thing by sticking it in where the valve goes. Then I would be able to run the engine with the intake sealed and exhaust would blow straight out the top of the valve. In theory you could run the engine up to 3800 RPM and not worry about blowing carbon into the intake and cylinders. Also, being able to rev the crap out of the engine and you get maximum flow through the cooler and manifold port. I should dig this thing out and finish it but I think I was not satisfied with brazing the plug together. I don't have a welder. It might also be a good idea to weld an angled pipe to the end and aim it away from the engine compartment.

Warranty price on the manifold is about $457 and the cooler is $511

I guess that after replacing the valve I restored the ability to flow exhaust and the carbon in the cooler started breaking apart. I'm not sure what amazes me more, that I haven't seen this before or that this is the first time I have. I think we looked around for a place to have them cleaned and couldn't find anything local. We don't see too many that are nearly as bad as this and these two are only the second and third manifolds we will have replaced in 5 years.

I took pics, just not available yet. I replaced an EGR valve the other day which was carboned up and sticking. Failed the EGR test so no brainer I thought. Since the truck had a recent history of misfiring and running rough and a couple injectors were replaced I thought little of it. PCM/FICM were up to date and the engine ran well. The customer picks it up and comes back later in the day, smoking and no power. Same deal, P0404. I removed the valve only to find a piece of carbon in it. The manifold was not all that dirty when I replaced it and I chalked it up to one of those few trucks that come back with a rogue piece of carbon stuck in the valve. Cleaned it out and let it go. Next day it came back. Same thing, P0404, smoking heavily and no power. Pulled the valve again and there were two pea-sized chunks of carbon in the valve. After pulling the manifold and the EGR cooler we discovered that the EGR cooler was 3/4 clogged at the outlet side and the manifold port is filthy too. There are no coolant leaks and the carbon is hard and dry. Never saw anything like it. It is getting a new cooler and manifold. Ironically, I have another truck that had a bad EGR cooler and it must have been leaking for some time and very slowly. It only leaks when hot as I had to warm it for some time before it leaked. Nothing has that fresh steam cleaned look. In fact, the carbon is so wet, thick and sticky I gave up on cleaning it. Make that two manifolds.

You need to use the specified sealant for use in HEUI engines like the 7.3L DIT and the 6.0L because any other silicone will affect the anti-foaming additives in the oil very quickly. In HEUI engines this causes driveability issues. The old IDI engines like the 6.9L and 7.3L (non-Power Stroke) and the 6.4L this is not an issue. I assume this is given knowledge but depending on your experience you may not be aware or remember that there are special requirements.

I once had to replace a right up pipe. I did this with the cab on and ended up pulling the trans and it was still a bitch of a job with stripped off bolt heads and barely enough room for the right tools and a torch head... it would have been easier and more efficient to have just pulled the cab.

In my shop the oil pan replacement alone is at least 18 hours. I recall (may be wrong) that Chilton time is about that. All the extra stuff is add-on. Being in NJ we always prep the customer for extra time for seized and broken bolts that may require drilling or extracting. You know the deal being my neighbor - many of these trucks now have significant rust on them. I recently eyeballed a 2004 6.0L with the pan bolt heads 3/4 rusted. They are not coming out with a socket or a wrench I can tell you that is for sure. Actually, now that I think about it, I don't know how I would get them out! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/scratchhead.gif

You have done this? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/scratchhead.gif

Vented rotors... proportioning valve... re-engineering vehicles is not what we should be doing in my opinion. Then you will REALLY own it. TO put it simply, if there are no problems with the Ford chassis then the real issue is it is either being abused or there is simply not enough truck under the body. Again, if this ambulance is identical to many others in the fleet and the others don't have this problem then it sure looks like a driver concern. Persevere.

Engine Cooling System Iron Cleaner. Is this stuff new? It is listed in TSB 08-23-1 and I haven't seen it listed in other TSB's as of yet. The bottles I got were back ordered. Just wondering...

I was going to suggest that perhaps the body may be too much for the chassis, I had a customer with an E350 that had a utility body on it that was constantly overloaded. They were constantly bringing the truck in for brake squeal and vibration. I suspect this isn't the case here and there is either something wrong with this ambulance or it is being driven hard or by someone who rides the brake or drives with two feet. If you have gone over this truck confidently you might suggest that the fleet rotate that ambulance to different drivers and see if that has any affect. Just a thought.

Ohh! OooH! OooH Mr. Warman! I have seen a few too. None that had any concerns at the time though. I went as far as to provide a part number and price, but none of the customers wanted to replace them.

Interesting. I was thinking about this as I was typing my last post that if water is getting to the pump how is it going undetected or un-noticed? I regard the HFCM as a decent fuel conditioner provided it gets drained regularly and OEM filters are installed as required. Water should separate from diesel fuel thus making it fairly easy to collect and remove. So unless something about the HFCM is defunct, how is anyone to tell if there is a water problem? Could it be the fuel itself? Is there something about the fuel or additives that allows water to disperse?

Good luck. I went through the same ordeal and it was, in my opinion a total play on words. I had written up my repair as I should have documenting all of my findings and test data. Same deal, I replaced EVERYTHING as per the Hot-Line because the pump had self destructed. There was fine black "stuff" in the fuel sample I took from the test port on the fuel cooler. The stuff was debris from the failed pump. I took a sample from the HFCM and it was perfectly clean. Despite writing what I had observed the claim bounced because of "fuel contamination." We appealed the claim several times stating that the fuel supply system had shown no water, dirt or other contamination and that the debris found in the engine fuel system was in fact due to the pump failure. I suppose it all comes down to who is reading the claim and how it is interpreted sometimes. I commented to my Rep about this and he assured me that the people reviewing claims are well trained. I question their level of understanding because I felt that it was easy to understand that the contamination was limited to the engine fuel system. My only advice to you is that if you are absolutely sure that the quality of the fuel in the vehicle was good and there was no evidence or signs of contamination that you stick to your guns and re-submit/appeal until they pay the claim. The only thing I can say in Ford's defense is that if they open a fuel pump and find rust then they have a pretty good case however, if there is no way for you to determine that then how are you supposed to know? It is tough to fight this type of thing after the truck is repaired and gone. Welcome to the DTS. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

Correct me if I am wrong but I recall that you don't necessarily need to be diesel certified to become a senior master technician. I thought that you could be a senior master with being EITHER gas engine or diesel engine service specialty. Both are not necessarily required. Has this changed?

Yes it is... I was looking for it earlier. Here, I found it in the wrong forum. I am slipping on my moderator duties. what a 7.3 can take and what it cant....

My Manager has NEVER so much as mentioned "126" to me, ever. But, every time we get an audit, whether it be a big intrusive ordeal or a self audit he mutters that we are high in diesel. It is never a surprise to him or me for that matter. he DOES discuss with me our processes, what we are not doing correctly and what we need to do to correct or improve upon with respect to our processes. We know that in our case, high numbers for the most part are simply the result of the vehicles we have sold, our customer base, our good reputation and a product prone to failures. We are honest and try our best to follow the guidelines and recommendations that Ford has provided us, which by the way, seem to constantly change. It "is what it is" for some of us my friends. Do your jobs properly in all aspects, take care of your customers and let FORD worry about THEIR warranty expenses.

I could take that two ways. Was it dripping with sarcasm and doubt or enthusiasm and a gleam in his eye?

It must be cold - I keep it in the freezer, next to the Vodka and the ice cream.

haugh-ty [haw-tee] -adjective, -tier, -tiest. 1. disdainfully proud; snobbish; scornfully arrogant; supercilious: haughty aristocrats; a haughty salesclerk. 2. Archaic. lofty or noble; exalted. Come on, we all have come across them and some of us may actually work with one... the world is abound with pricks who see the world from the top of their noses. In other words, don't be offended by the term. There are haughty techs in the indie world as well and in every walk of life. Just look on the Diesel Stop and observe the cross representation of haughty jerks that show disdain for stealerships and dealer technicians. Haughty, it's a human condition. Those that let that condition rise to the top keep the rest of us grounded. I did not take the statement as a generalization...

Shyyyyit! We get an audit every year to some degree. Diesel is ALWAYS scrutinized. What is going to change? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif

/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hahaha.gif Jagermeister <--- Click Me /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/drinkingdude.gif

You should have been in the chat room Saturday night... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk2.gif

We got crafty like that on a 2006 6.0L ambulance where the cup on #5 cylinder had to be replaced because of a combustion leak. We took a threaded rod from one of my 2-jaw pullers and the nut and bearing from my P/S pulley installer and threaded it in the tap like you mentioned. Then we took two steel plates from our press and laid them across the rocker housing and they just cleared the rocker arms. We were able to crank on the nut with a wrench and whadda ya know! The cup came out. Amazing the tricks we all come up with - eh? But you mentioned a tube and if I recall idea that came across my mind - one that would sit around the opening of the injector bore and the nut would push against it. We didn't have anything like that but t is a great idea and it would allow for a shorter rod which would allow this to work on the back cylinders where working clearance is not available.