Keith Browning

Quote: My memory is great, it's my recollection that is a bit rusty... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rofl.gif

Why do you feel lame? How are we supposed to remember so much technical information at the drop of a dime? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif There are many things that each and every one of us have learned, read or have been taught that we "forget" about either because so much more is thrown at us or we don't use it for some time. We are lucky in the sense that the very same age of information that overloads our minds can also be used to jar our memories. Be thankful for all of the resources we have!

I have always been in the habit of disconnecting the modules regardless of whether it's an Medium F-Series or an LCF right from the beginning. I know of the TSB and the quoted information you posted, I also knowhow the networks are set up on the LCF. You shouldnt have to disconnect either the TCM or the ABS... but... Since you made your post I pulled my training book and went through it because I remember something about this and my notes were good! It was recommended to us to disconnect the other modules when reprogramming the ECM and the FICM. Correct me if I am wrong but doesn't the NETS software display the same warning? I don't remember as I can go a few months without seeing either an LCF or a medium F-Series. Then I seem to get whacked! Any way, I seem to always have issues when I don't disconnect at least the TCM on an LCF during module reprogramming. MAybe it's something else I am doing - or not doing for that matter. Now you did it! I'm lookin for an LCF to play with!!! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/eek.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rofl.gif

The best part of that post is this Turbocharger Diag book

On 2004 and newer turbos, you remove the plug in the top next to the oil feed line and install the test sensor into that hole, securing it with one of the oil feed line bolts. The sensor harness plugs into the VMM and that allows IDS to utilize the tool. From the main IDS toolbox menu the VVT test is accessible under the Powertrain selection. The on-screen instructions guide you through the set up and and the tests. This is a very good tool but intermittent sticking concerns can elude this test. If a turbo passes this test and you have a hunch, I still recommend making a data recording when the driveability concern occurs. If you also have a VDR I recommend that as my tool of choice for data recordings on intermittent concerns as it wont tie up your scan tool, you can send a manager, porter/valet or the customer out to duplicate the concern and make a data recording while you continue to work. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif But the VVT tool is easy to use and the flip side it that since it directly measures the movement of the actuator you can pick up small erratic movements, lack of range in movement or over shooting movements that indicate sticking. Sometimes you will see this on the screen even if you cant feel it when you drive.

The tool numbers are always included in the PCED where the test is located. In this case, pinpoint test KA has the procedure and lists the tool number. The Vane Position Sensor Cable Kit tool number is 418-626. I don't think the adapter is part of the IDS or the VMM kit but it was sent to all diesel certified dealerships as a mandatory tool.

Quote: If you are able to go through your get, send, receive and program without flagging any errors, you know the program took. Actually, not necessarily true. A recent repair on an LCF I made included the buzz bomb flash. Long story short, I forgot to disconnect the ABS and transmission modules. NETS went through the flash process without any errors.* but when I ran the truck it did not cycle the injectors. Back tracking my steps I realized what I had forgotten to do. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/blush.gif *After doing it the right way I realized that the process was not complete but none the less, I did not get any error codes.

Yep. There are a few guys out there that have them. I was at TDS and saw THIS POST. It's not anything off the wall but it's something you just don't see every day. Mind you these are all conversions because you cant buy a VAN with dual rear wheels, only stripped chassis. There are some good pics in the thread too.

You just know some dumb ass is going to do that.

Several months ago a little birdie told me that the light duty diesel was not etched in stone despite the testing that was going on. Two articles came across the Diesel Mentor news feeds last week stating that Toyota has scrapped their diesel engine plans.

No. Here in NJ even the windows rust... and our state BIRD is the mosquito! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/tomato.gif

/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cover.gif EASY! Let's not get carried away, this is not a high pressure oil system we are talking about now! Tim Taylor would be proud though. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/notworthy.gif

Life is good! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif

Post deleted by Keith Browning

Those cylinder shaped filters are part of the thermo recirculation valve which part of the fuel pick up. The valve assembly is not intended to be serviceable therefore parts are not available... to the best of my knowledge. You can clean the screens and reassemble the recirculation valve provided you were careful when taking it apart. If the screens are damaged or otherwise unusable then you have to replace the pick up assembly.

I like taffy, but I love beer! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif

You are in good company. We have several topics where we discussed sync problems and using the IDS scope. I ran across a rusty block that pushed the CMP away fm the block and actually deformed---> see THIS TOPIC

Aside from a well written post I am impressed, well, perhaps more like pleased to hear that you did the right thing which says a lot about your character. In a perfect World all technicians would exhibit such moral and professional qualities but we all know that we do not live in a perfect World. I am proud that you are a DTS member and that all of us here seem to live and work with high moral standards as evidenced by the posts and discussions here in the DTS Forums. Thank you for sharing your story... now I want some taffy! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif New Jersey Salt Water Taffy is considered the best in the World. I haven't been to the shore in while, perhaps next summer... after I get my fillings checked! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Anthony that is an awesome idea if it works. Have tried this and have you seen positive results?

That is just the thing we are discussing and I don't see any method as being easy unless you can get the engine to fire or the cylinder is hydrolocked and pulling the glow plugs reveals the leaker. Doing it by the book or any other suggested method is time consuming. Now, I managed to get this truck to run which gave me the opportunity to look at some data and play with power balance. This was my first one of these, we will see what happens with the next one - the DOC and DPF arrived yesterday so I will install them and wrap this one up today and ship it on out - hopefully never to be seen again.

We had one of these arrive in my shop today as well. The tech I assigned this to also called the Hot-Line (Hi guys! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/borgsmile-1.gif) and was given the same instructions. We had another discussion about this and tossed around the idea that you would have to have a leak at the cup AND at the lower fuel o-ring. Unless you have a crack along the injector bore I doubt you will see anything but I suppose any of the ideas you read about could be helpful. Since I love UV tracer dye so much, I might suggest adding dye to the cooling system, remove the injectors and pressurize the system and look for a leak with a black light. I have my doubts about the bubble thing - not enough coverage, not enough soap, how do you know you sprayed it down well enough, you get the picture. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif See THIS TOPIC first, then click on over to THIS TOPIC and pay attention to the pictures of Bruce's awesome cutaway of a 6.0L cylinder head. The Hot-line's suggestion is a noble attempt to find the leak...

I assumed that the idea was to identify an injector that was physically broken or seized and allowing fuel to literally pass through uncontrolled, either through the pintle or the spill port. This also requires the assumption to be correct that the 4-6 psi created by the supply pump can, and will, reach the injectors with the KOEO. I do not know if this is technically or truly possible. I was told first hand by a Navistar Field Manager that we could detect a leaking injector by removing the fuel plugs on the back of the heads to drain them, then run the fuel pump (supply?) and look for fuel leakage. If I am wrong please forgive my memory as I *think* that is what was stated and I don't want to mis-quote the man. Since high pressure would obviously be more effective, is there a way to disable the injectors and crank the engine to allow the HPFP generate high pressure? Would removing the valve covers and simply disconnecting the injectors work? Does anyone remember using UV dye on the early 6.0L's when we had injectors leaking? ...just thinking out loud. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hammer2.gif

Furthermore, those who choose to do things in a different manner than the "proper" way do so at their own risk. Those who do things in a different manner than the "proper" way and advertise about it risk screwing those who don't and lower the standard for all, eventually screwing themselves. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/2cents.gif

/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/whattodo.gif DONT JINX ME!!! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/whattodo.gif I had to order a CAT and DPF which take two days to get so the truck is still here! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif