Keith Browning

I just had another thought -dangerous, I know... what about warranty and Ash build up? I don't think that using up a DPF should be covered under warranty. I mean that if the DPF is simply plugged, regardless of mileage it is a service issue. How are we supposed to document this or what are the guidelines? What should be warranty and what should be the owner's responsibility? The way I see it is any DPF replaced under warranty had better be broken up or black at both ends. I would hate to be charged back for that! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shocked.gif

6.4L Torque Adapter Kit Tools used for 6.4L WSM procedure 303-04D to torque: Turbocharger, inlet pipes, exhaust manifold, EGR-OC pipe 1 - 11mm allen head socket, 3/8 drive. 1 - 10mm 12 point deep socket, 1/4 drive. 1 - 10mm to 1/4 drive GearWrench socket adapter. 1 - 12mm allen head socket, 3/8 drive. 1 - GearWrench 10mm/12mm half-moon shaped ratcheting wrench. 1 - GearWrench 11mm/13mm half-moon shaped ratcheting wrench.

Exactly may point. Are we supposed to sell customers a NEW DPF at 120,000 miles when it only needs to be cleaned and has a total service life of 250,000 miles?

So I am reminded that this will become an issue before long after reading a topic on another forum. So I went looking for information on servicing DPF's on our Fords. I recall in training that the proposed option was an exchange program for dealers and areas where cleaning apparatus was not viable or available. Has anyones shop had to deal with this issue yet? Is there any Ford information I haven't found yet? It seems to me that a new DPF at 120,000 miles is not cost effective. I can understand 250,000 miles. Are any of the FAR shops equipped for this?

I hope I didn't make him mad. I do feel his pain as I have been there many times.

Quote: Aaron, when you install the new high pressure fuel pump cover gasket make sure the PCV and VCV connectors "Click" in. My suggestion would be to lightly pull on the connector when they are connected to confirm the connection is seated correctly. To me this suggests this may be an assembly issue as I mentioned having difficulty getting these connectors to seat on a couple of trucks. I don't recall any deformation of the connectors. This could also suggest that if "we" are to ensure the connectors don't fail we are to make damn sure they are seated and locked before installing the cover. Quote: Notice the lack of headlamps...yep...cage nuts... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/mad.gif You look like you went through hell! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif Do you heat the body bolts before removing them by hand? I have only broken one cage bolt but not since heating them before removing them.

We emergencied it... Ford located one and Fed-Exed it to us a day later. The fuckin bos was shreded and the pulley was beat up. WTF? I swapped the pulley from the old alternator and all is well. Thanx for the offer though.

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Actually I WAS going to point out how bad a bed-plate repair sucks on an Econoline and what a sheer pain in the ass removing the engine is going to be. But - I held back and kept my post short and sweet and didn't make any mention about the horrid job ahead of him. All I did was agree with Jim that it sounds like a bed-plate leak which only implies that the front of the truck will have to be disassembled and the engine will have to be stripped to get the engine out. Sheesh! Some people cant keep their mouths shut! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/whistle.gif

Chris it sounds like you know exactly how to use the dye effectively - good! I want to agree with Jim that this is sounding like a bedplate leak.

That is correct and an IDS data recording will prove it. Dave described the source of the noise fairly accurately but your question leads me to believe that you have a stuck or sticking turbocharger. When boost raises to approximately 26 PSI under acceleration and PCM has backed off on the VGT actuator duty cycle and realizes manifold gage pressure is still climbing it will momentarily open the EGR valve to bleed off some exhaust pressure in an attempt to slow down the turbo. This action will continue until the turbo slows and boost reduces or the driver lets off of the accelerator. You wont find this documented anywhere. Trust me, I have searched but it is part of the PCM strategy as you suspect. I have seen stuck turbos cause this but don't rule out EP sensor issues that can make a turbo malfunction. Diagnosis always begins with verifying the pressure sensors for correlation and bias. EP, MAP and BARO... but we have new built in tests on IDS for checking the turbo including Turbo Boost and VGT test for 2004 and newer engines.

If you want to be POSITIVE change the engine oil if it is not clean and add three ounces of UV oil dye, drive the vehicle a few miles and inspect with a UV lamp.

Rob, we forget sometimes that we have members that are not only new to the DTS but new to Ford diesels. Click on the attached file on the Inferred EBP Functional Overview which explains how the EBP sensor was eliminated on 2003 production engines. The EBP sensor was the source of a lot of driveability problems. Most trucks with 2003 production engines should have an engine calibration that "strategically eliminates" this sensor and a turbocharger adaptive learning must be performed... read! Please. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif I have also included the Inferred EBP PID List and description document.

Recheck the wiring at the ICP sensor. I have accidentally installed an ICP pigtail or two with wires switched. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif It is likely you have done the same.

I have been critical of the steering stability and ride quality of gasoline powered Super Duty trucks since the change to coil springs. Over bumps the front end hops often moving the truck to one side and bumping the steering wheel in your hand. Let us not forget the steering oscillation problem addressed by TSB 07-10-10. The general ride is bouncy and at times in the past driving one of these sometimes makes me feel queasy. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/puke.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/sick.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/puke.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/sick.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/puke.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/sick.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/puke.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/sick.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/puke.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/sick.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/puke.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/sick.gif I have my Freestyle in the shop for a bad alternator which is on backorder so I am currently driving a 2008 F250 with 5.4L. No improvement in handling. I also feel that the 5.4L is a dog unless you mash the accelerator to the floor. Perhaps I am just so used to the diesel trucks that the gassers just seem so different. I am just very surprised at the difference and even more surprised we don't hear more complaints about the handling. I could never own one.

Alright. I'll confess. I am guilty of flat-rate reading. The first two I did got 2 clamps. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/blush.gif

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Been there, see THIS TOPIC. You will need the jumper harnesses for diagnosing certain things on these engines and observe voltages. Long story short, it seems like you have eliminated any electrical malfunctions therefore if nothing is clogged either think performance... turbocharger... sticking. Your hesitation and stumbling sounds exactly like the one I ran into with a 343. I also had another 650 with a bad turbo doing the same thing but no DTC. It's the same turbo, same warranty coverage, same problems.

Just to update this topic, the turbo was sticking on this truck

I do find CAT's training resources to be excellent - I have recently started going through and taking some on-line courses and they are on par or exceed the training Ford has. But I wanted to share a link to a web site that recently was submitted to DieselMentor.com There are four booklets; "Engine Bearings," "Engine Gaskets," "Pistons, Rings, Pins and Locks" and "Valve Train and Related Components." They are each $15 USD. http://www.aera.org/failurebooklets.aspx

I saw that post but it's not the one in this post. My "customer" only had 21k or so on his truck and #8 rod slipped off the crank or piston. Just a wee bit more than metal shavings in the filter.

Here ya go! (File attached) By the way, if you can still access the previous TSB would you save the PDF and upload it to this topic?

"Blackstone said my last differential sample was good and since I was using synthetic I could go 500,000 miles!" /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/sick.gif Over the last 5-6 years I saw probably several hundred full axle overhauls on Jeeps in my shop. Dana axles. One tech commented that if you didn't service the diffs every 15-20 thousand miles the bearings fell apart. Not sure what lube they used but I certainly would not blame the oil. The general consensus was that there was a quality issue with the axles. I have to agree with you fellers for the most part but I recall Ford introducing synthetics to our light trucks on the diesel equipped units. Both rears and transmissions. I assumed that the synthetics being a better lubricant were intended to provide added protection under the presumed higher loads these vehicles were intended to see.

in '62 I was still in my Dad's genes.