Keith Browning

Thanks Tim! The fitting on the pump is not loose as far as it's relationship with the pump itself. My impression is that the hose feels a bit looser on the fitting than I would like. If I am going to be upgrading this to a steel tube then the fitting is going to be replaced anyway. Good advice though! We have had problems with those fittings loosening and blowing out the o-rings on the pumps on 7.3L engines. The fix was new o-rings and Loc-Tite on the threads. What would be a fair labor time for this repair?

I hope one of the CAT guys can help me here, I am on SIS WEB attempting to look up parts for the first time and having trouble finding what I need. I can find the return tube but not the pressure line and fitting... The graphics I come up with show a tube, not a hose. It's a 2001 F650 with a 3126B engine: I need the high pressure oil line from the HPOP to the cylinder head and the fitting at the pump. This is the 8" rubber line with the quick connect ends. Arrangement #8YL . Serial #0083806H

Depends on what you are worried about. When the whole Blue Oval went down Ford really pushed the dealers to have Saturday hours. I know my dealer loses money just opening the door on Saturdays. We normally schedule service work on Saturdays but our line techs are the ones that have to rotate Saturdays. There is no such thing as a "lube tech" in my dealership. From what I have been reading most Ford dealers have been slowing down. If we cant fill the bays Monday through Friday should we really be open Saturday and Sunday? Oh yeah, Wal-Mart and K-Mart are.

Uhghh! I was looking for this and totally missed it on the RTTP site. Not necessarily a bad thing but then I e-mailed them asking about it and it is right there like you pointed out. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/blush.gif There is one wrench that is not there that probably should be added and that is for the 15mm fuel pump gear bolt, Snap-On #FRDHM15.

Getting back to this topic... I remembered this one! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif Have me a 2004 F650 with a 6.0L on it. Stalls and starts up and exhibits the signs of a PCM reset not to mention an intermittent no crank concern. Long story short I found low voltage at the ECM and IDM relays which were buzzing. Traced circuit #785 from the relays and found a connector internally melted. This was in the 14A411 "clean battery feed jumper harness" that connects between the fused harnesses on the batteries and the engine chassis harness at the left front area of the engine. Wire colors vary from brown, red and black/green.

Allow me to punctuate my position. Ford Motor Company needs to determine and state in writing with respect to fuels what they will allow and what they will not allow and WHY. Whatever their position is, they need to make it clear, stand behind it and stop with ponderous administrative policy. For God's sake.

Quote: Ok, Im new to the forum and didnt want to bother anyone by asking a question but i could find any previous posts about how to get my 06 6.0 to billow out black smoke. What kind of upgrades can i do to get this? Im 20 and this is my first of hopfully many diesel trucks; so im new to the engine upgrades and would greatly appreciate any help. Im kind of on a budget because construction is so slow but would love to hear any suggestions of what i should or can do to achive the smoke. Thanks again Mix 10 gallons of diesel fuel with 10 gallons of gasoline. Wrap a sock onto an 8-foot stick and staple it securely. Dip the sock end into the fuel mixture and set aside. Open hood and liberally pour the mixture over the engine compartment, the cab, the tires and some in the bed for good measure. With a cigarette lighter, light the sock end of the 8-foot stick. holding the stick out in front of you, carefully walk toward the truck. Within minutes you should have more than enough black smoke billowing from the truck to delight any truck fan! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/flamethrower.gif

Update on this. It is "okay" to use Jet-A/JP8 but only in off road applications like military or construction only vehicles. Any vehicle registered and tagged for on road use is prohibited and THAT(?) is the final determining factor for warranty coverage/cancellation? This is the kind of thing many of us hate about Ford Motor Company. What the hell does the registration status of a vehicle have to to with warranty and whether or not a type of fuel is fit for use in a given engine? Nothing! It does have legal implications if jet fuel is not certified for use as a motor vehicle fuel in an on-highway motor vehicle... which I don't know the answer to. But this brings us back to the point that jet fuel and diesel fuel are DIFFERENT and are refined and formulated differently to be used in specific types of engines. So, if jet fuel has lower lubricity, different ignition qualities and has the potential to damage a diesel engine then how the fuck is not having license plates on the truck going to make all that change? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/icon_crazy.gif

Did I miss test question #1? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/scratchhead.gif

I think most any method is going to undesirable due to the production of metal shavings, filings and pieces depending on the method employed. With that said I still might try to get it out without removing the head and see what I have... Getting creative I thought of those bolt out sockets if there is one small enough and some grease packed around the bottom of the bolt to catch debris. Worth a shot.

Furthermore, this is also probably one of the mis-guided individuals getting spun up over at the Diesel Stop. Some of these poor bastards just don't know any better then some idiot gets them all wound up and fills their heads with bad information and advice.

08-17-01 attached... in English!

I was told that some of the Gents from the Hot-Line visit our forums on occasion. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/borgsmile-1.gif Too bad they can't chime in. Sometimes I just feel like waving hello! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/whistle.gif

You are probably right but some jerk HAD to ask. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif If it wasn't me I am sure one of you... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/tomato.gif

Silly question Mr. Amacker: What is the torque specification on those four bolts holding the magnet on? Since injectors are not a field serviceable item this is not an easy spec to find. I would think this is something we wouldn't want to loosen or strip.

We have a head shaking smiley - /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rotz.gif And no. I wont boot you. You are entitled to your opinion and I like the fact that you don't hesitate to express it. Aside from that you fellers are debating this one quite nicely. It has been a while since we have debated anything around here! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/popcorn.gif Jim, it will probably tick you off, and I hope you don't think less of me, but, I have made the very same repair in the past. In fact, I have one of the 1/4 by 3/8 barbed fittings sitting right here in front of me on my desk. Not all of the radiators I have personally broken have been repairable. If I cant make a solid repair I wont. When I do, it is strong (no less weaker than the molded piece of crap that broke off) reliable (I don't know of any that have failed) and the brass fitting looks like it belongs there - looks stock if you didn't know otherwise. (I do good work you know) If I were a customer and this was my radiator, I probably would be okay with this repair provided it was well executed and I was notified about the problem and given the oportunity to choose the repair or a new radiator. I do recall there having been at least two incidents where a radiator was a weekend away and I recall both guys being "kool" with the repair despite the fact the we broke it in the first place. I am sure there are those who would get bent over it. (puts on his flame retardant suit and clicks submit) /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/flamethrower.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cover.gif

Maybe we need to publish "Grampy Jim's Book of Good To Know Stuff."

Thank you Bruce.

Okay, so I discussed this "warranty canceling issue with my service manager and I called the Hot-Line (hi guys!) for some clarification about the form. No big deal, Submitted the form and entered Service Managers name and e-mail. So they call us after reviewing the form and wanted to know what TYPE of jet fuel it was. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rolleyes.gif How the hell are we supposed to know that? Apparently JP-8 has just been "approved" for use in 6.0L PSD engines. But don't quote me on that, its third hand information and I would personally want to that in writing. Now we have to find a lab to send a sample to that can identify the fuel. Good thing I took a big sample!

So this is a theoretical question about the engine before you repaired it or has it returned after the customer took the vehicle after you released it?

Quote: BEDPLATE GASKETS in chassis. Jack ASS!

Sample went out today using the NAPA kit. Bruce, how does this company provide my report, by mail/on-line? I could not provide the brand of oil or an accurate mileage interval on the oil itself. I hope that does not mean they wont test it. I provided the mileage and the engine hours though.

How about three bent connecting rods? I would have thought Chris would have posted this but I question if FAR engines use old connecting rods? Did we get an engine that may have fallen victim to the failing injectors we see? Did they forget to check these rods? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/scratchhead.gif

Nice pics Mike! The first pic of the reservoir screen looks a lot like the dirt that collects on top of these engines and packs in around the cooler, HPOP cover and the intake manifold. I am not necessarily suggesting that you introduced this grit into the engine but... One suggestion to any tech removing stuff from these engines is to take shop air and get right in along the edges of the cooler, along the head/block seam, manifold and HPOP cover. Clean the same areas with Brakleen and hit it again with compressed air. Since you have to remove the intake first, a piece of masking or duct tape covers the intake ports on the heads nicely to prevent blowing crap from the valley into the engine. Just something that came to mind. Remember to wear safety glasses! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif

Kind of ironic since he already had the heads off. This is where the honesty part comes in. He should have thought of all this when he had the heads off and was inspecting all of his parts. (not a personal dig - just an observation) Unfortunately Jim is right because the workshop manual states that you must remove the cylinder head to replace injector cups. This can be done in chassis and it is done that way more frequently than you think. The problems are that the process creates metal shavings and the lack of access space prohibits the use of a slide hammer for the rear cylinders. I have creative workarounds for both. Lastly, you need to ensure all antifreeze and fuel that spills into the cylinder is removed before starting the engine.