Keith Browning

Vendor Program 08V01: Certain 2008 F-650/750 Trucks With Allison Transmission - Park Pawl Actuator Assembly Inspection and Repair Vendor Program means that this notice is for information only. The vehicle must be referred to an authorized Allison dealer.

I also find that sanding off the rust on the hub helps. Ever notice the wheels have a slight bevel, sometimes the rust just jams under that bevel and the wheel continues to fight you after it has been released from it's death grip. I am not suggesting you strip the metal like you want to paint it, just a couple minutes with a piece of emery cloth and wash it off with some Brakleen.

har-bin-ger n. One that indicates or foreshadows what is to come; a forerunner. tr.v. har-bin-gered, har-bin-ger-ing, har-bin-gers To signal the approach of; presage. One might wonder if Jim has made some interesting conclusions with his recent runaround with a 6.4L engine. In staying with the topic, what might happen to the coolant in the EGR coolers should the EGR valve fail in an open position under a high load/rpm situation? I realize that the function of EGR is to cool peak combustion temperatures but what if the valve was open enough to cause unwanted flow but not enough to drastically affect performance? Would the coolant in the EGR coolers begin to super heat and start to boil? This is probably stretching it but I am thinking it is possible. Maybe even under certain normal operating conditions. Ever look at the coolant flow chart? The vertical EGR cooler coolant discharges right at the t-stat head in the front cover and if the stats are open it flows directly into the radiator inlet... on the left hand side. I also see the heater core is fed from that area as well. Didn't we see some issues with heater core noise? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/scratchhead.gif Just thinkin out loud here. What do I know? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif

One time myself. Customer came in with the jet in an envelope, said it came out when he changed his oil. I remember the truck was well over 100,000 miles and we were jammed with work so he had it repaired elsewhere. I am curious as to what the long term effect of running the engine with that cooling jet missing would be.

Hey, if it works thats all the matters. BTW you know we are kiddin around!?!?

Yeah good point Greg, was it ONE click, or a short BUZZING? To further help you with this see TSB 04-18-6 and see THIS POST for the 6.0L noid light tool and injector circuit tester which helps with this.

That is beneficial.

Welcome to the DTS Shane! Some things to chew on... Is the ICP sensor on the HPOP cover or is it on the right valve cover? Is the ICP PID voltage between 0.18 and 0.24 volts (Early Build) or 0.15 and 0.35 (Late Build)? Late build has the ICP on the valve cover and your reading of 0.3V would be in spec - but if your ICP sensor is the early build then the sensor is biased. The old sensors are known to fail; come apart, leak oil and read inaccurately when this happens. I find that your fuel pressure being higher when cranking is odd. I have never really checked fuel pressure while cranking but it seems odd that it would rise if the injectors are using fuel and the starter is drawing a lot of power. Add to this the P0266 injector code and you might suspect fuel aeration affecting bank 2. Just a wild theory but I have seen trucks in our shop towed in with a bad injector causing a no start. Does the engine TRY to start? Any smoke? Ignition knock?

I know about the tires, we have had more than one customer with tire related bucking and jerking caused by mis-matched tires. I guess I will leave well enough alone as far as my AWD is concerned. Thanks for helping me figure this out guys!

Interesting tactic and a good tip! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif How are you welding the nut, arc or brazing?

I'll take that as validation! Not that I didn't beleive... I usually don't believe what I see before my own eyes these days. You would think something like this would have made it into the books, you know, like the OBD Theory and Operation... the symptom charts... makes you wonder what else they are not telling us.

The clowns on FMC Dealer were bashing this about and many apparently haven't read the TSB.

What? You couldn't get a matching switch for 7 and 8? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif Of course you need to install a switch plate to bring that thing up to code!

We need a bitch slap smily. I got $5. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/fouet3.gif

Guys tell me my big 600 LB/FT torque wrench is the cat's ass but it just ain't enough. I am almost convinced to get a multiplier.

Cool observation. Did you or would you consider calling the HotLine and see what they have to say about this? I am curious because I snooped around in all the literature and nothing points to the fuel pump relay for a no crank or OBD Theory/Operation. Perhaps bugging a truck would be more proof positive. Thanks for the info!!! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif

SSM 0980 - 6.4L EGR REMOVAL TOOL DAMAGE CONCERNS SOME 6.4L EGR (303-1267) TOOLS MAY EXPERIENCE A STRIPPED BEARING RETAINING NUT. IF THE NUT BECOMES DAMAGED DURING EGR VALVE REMOVAL, INSPECT THE THREADED FORCING SCREW FOR DAMAGE AS WELL AND CALL ROTUNDA FOR REPLACEMENT COMPONENTS AT 1-800-ROTUNDA (768-8632) AND CHOOSE OPTION #5 AT THE PROMPT. DURING TOOL RE-ASSEMBLY REMEMBER TO USE LOC-TITE 262 AND NOTE THAT IT IS A LEFT HAND THREAD. PLEASE MAKE SURE THAT THE PILOT CUP TURNS FREELY AFTER RE-ASSEMBLY AS WELL.

Tim there are two or three different levels that I know of. I am at the lowest as a TEPS dealer which requires me to be certified so that we can sell trucks with CAT engines. Basically, we are regarded as a maintenance dealer with no parts stock and really no tools other than scan tool capability. You guessed it, I can do anything outside the engine as long as I don't open it up. We have concluded that our local Cat dealer does not want to do business with dealers. So basically, a CAT comes in with issues, I determine whether it is something I can take care of or defer it to another dealer... we found another Ford dealer that is both CAT and Allison certified to perform repairs. So needless to say I typically service them and ship 'em off. By the way, there is less Cummins activity here... perhaps I need to open up to some Dodge Techs. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif

Since this is AWD it does not have "Hi" and "Low" and there is no shifting or controls because it's All Wheel Drive - not 4X4. That would be A4WD. Since I never had one of these apart I did read the manual including disassembly and assembly. It is the second part which I left out that explains the power flow but I must be too tired to "get it" right now. OPERATION Torque flows through the input shaft to the front planetary gear assembly outward to the ring gear to the upper output shaft. Torque also flows through the front planetary gear assembly to the overdrive sun gear outward to the upper drive sprocket. The torque flow continues from the upper drive sprocket through the drive chain to the lower drive sprocket to the front output shaft. The viscous coupling provides the connection between the ring gear and the overdrive sun gear. This is one of those things I need to see with my hands. Time for bed! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/sleep.gif

Its a 2001 5.0L. Do you think the viscus coupling would have problems being unloaded? Maybe. But it would just be going for a free ride, kinda like a torque converter with the trans in neutral. I better read the entire section in the manual.

The rear axle is always engaged in this AWD transfer case. The front axle is connected via a chain drive and the shaft is engaged automatically... well, here is the description from the manual: The constantly activated, automatic, all-wheel drive transfer case has no external controls. A two-piece aluminum case houses the assembly. The unit is chain driven. A non-repairable viscous coupling provides torque distribution to the front and rear transfer case outputs. The viscous coupling contains slotted alternating plates through which a high viscosity fluid flows. The resistance of the fluid shear causes the plates to transmit torque at the approximate ratio of 35 percent to the front output and 65 percent to the rear output. I don't see how disconnecting this would cause any damage but I just want to know is if anyone has done this and if they had any problems. There is a planetary gear set that acts like a differential between the axles and it couples the input shaft with the output shaft... looks like it is locked together, but I cant tell by the picture.

A few years ago I heard about removing the front driveshaft on an AWD Explorer to improve gas mileage. I know that all AWD vehicles take a hit in fuel economy so this sounds plausible. I don't think that this would cause any harm to the transfer case but I really have no experience with them other than I own one... can anyone think of a reason I shouldn't try removing my front driveshaft until the winter?

Most flat-rate shops will offer an hourly guarantee, say 30-35 hours average from what I see locally.

Seems to me that would be the most likely cause and I agree with Jim, "without helper codes" it's hard to say if anything else is affecting the turbocharger. This would be a great time to make use of a VDR...